Build Thread Enola- Finishing touches

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Well off I went today in search of cold air induction. Removed all the piping and my fpg that were in the way of getting a drill and hole saw in the area I needed to cut.
I had an idea.... a good one... pull the tire and splash guard off to see what I might drill into.
Well it turns out that there is uni body in the spot I want to make a big ass 3.5 hole... I said to myself "well I can cut it the frame is underneath the car" then I looked around some more and realized that it may weaken the strut tower area to cut into it.. being a convertible I don't need anymore flex than I already have. So no hole cut just a lot of wasted day....
So new idea.
I will move the heater hoses as far out of the way as I can then wrap the portion of fthe pipe that runs thru that area. Now I have no choice but to build a shroud of some kind to get cold air into the filter... darn my luck. I could just put a few more bends into the pipe and be out in the fender, but I'm sure that would be counter productive.

How much more restrictive would another 90* of bend be????
 
Got all my parts in!

Replaced them and rebuilt the fmu. Now with the fuel pressure set at 36# with vac off the car is still rich, just now it's rich across the board.. the new fpr is not leaking I checked.

I will check tps voltage tomorrow and see what I may have changed from the old setup.... maybe I should pull the chip and clean the connections. Idk what's up this time seems like I'm using bigger injectors than I am. Maybe they burned the tune wrong and I had the fuel pressure turned way down to compensate.
 
More parts on the way little stuff used pieces...
-75mm tb from a 4.6 to setup a dual tb system to limit airflow to the charger at idle and part throttle.
-larger crank pulley should see 6# with it.

At what fuel pressure do injectors not fire correctly? On the low side I mean 30# 20#???
 
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Set up 2 turbo coup pcv valves in parallel and hooked to the intake, took the valve cover to a cheap catch can with a filter on it. No more oil on my valve cover!

Anyone know about the injector pressure?

I hate waiting for parts....:(
 
Small update
Got the throttle body today, set it up right before the m90. Works great at idle, car sounds like it's NA no more whine. I am using my old TV cable, just have to make a mount for it at the second tb.

Once I have it operating right I will post a video.
 
I tried just one before the charger, read post 138. It didn't go well...
The tb at the charger is there only to limit airflow to the charger at idle and part throttle cruising so it does not constantly try to make boost. It's positive displacement so the bypassed air gets hot. With two tb this will fix the issue.
 
I tried just one before the charger, read post 138. It didn't go well...
The tb at the charger is there only to limit airflow to the charger at idle and part throttle cruising so it does not constantly try to make boost. It's positive displacement so the bypassed air gets hot. With two tb this will fix the issue.
Will the second throttle body also create heat when installed on the inlet of the PD blower? What about cavitation?
I've seen quite a bit of behind the scenes R&D that has been done with centrifugal blowers and an application like this and the results were not favorable for an installation like this. Theory being: the unrestricted air flow on the inlet of the blower will use cool air to decrease inlet temperatures of compressed air. The bypass valve after the compressor is what moves that amount of air through the volute to keep the charge temps cooler. Am I wrong in assuming this would apply to PD blowers as well?
I ask only because I'm curious. It looks like I'll be reading 12 pages to get caught up here
 
Will the second throttle body also create heat when installed on the inlet of the PD blower? What about cavitation?
I've seen quite a bit of behind the scenes R&D that has been done with centrifugal blowers and an application like this and the results were not favorable for an installation like this. Theory being: the unrestricted air flow on the inlet of the blower will use cool air to decrease inlet temperatures of compressed air. The bypass valve after the compressor is what moves that amount of air through the volute to keep the charge temps cooler. Am I wrong in assuming this would apply to PD blowers as well?
I ask only because I'm curious. It looks like I'll be reading 12 pages to get caught up here
I also have a bypass hooked up, the second tb was just to reduce noise and drag at part throttle and idle
 
I also have a bypass hooked up, the second tb was just to reduce noise and drag at part throttle and idle
I would still think that the second throttle body would be counter productive? It certainly does quite the system down some but at what cost? Is there an appreciable difference in throttle response? The car is also very lean from what I've seen in the last video, is this a tuning issue or air flow problem? Again, I am curious more than anything
 
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Any concern with heat soak? the inlet tube is absorbing quite a bit of heat from the headers from the looks of things. Any way to pan the inlet off to the back of the cowl?
 
I had considered panning it off, for now it will stay as it is the headers are wrapped and the car is intercooled. In January I will be doing the next stage of this build it will include an aftermarket ecu and maf delete. I may also order some stainless tubing so I can weld all my bends, this will allow me to delete the tb at the plenum.
Right now I hope to get her close so I can enjoy the upcoming cool weather here in Florida.
Once I get things worked out with the cable and afr, I will add the crank pulley I have from a bronco. This will net a 2.5 psi increase from my monkey math, I see 4 now hopefully 6 with the crank pulley.