An 80mm TB would be my next item. That would shift the bottleneck to your 3 inch piping.
After that? Water/meth and more timing.
Build Thread Enola- Finishing touches
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An 80mm TB would be my next item. That would shift the bottleneck to your 3 inch piping.
After that? Water/meth and more timing.
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Those are some sharp bends.
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It's on the boosted side though so no worries.
Get that inlet filter out of the engine bay if poss.
LOL... I just realized that your TB is after the SC. Disregard the 80mm.
Edit:
It's on the boosted side though so no worries.
Get that inlet filter out of the engine bay if poss.
LOL... I just realized that your TB is after the SC. Disregard the 80mm.
My shift point with e303 5500......
Charger spins at about 11000 rpm effective rpm is 14500 is red line is 15.5k
Charger spins at about 11000 rpm effective rpm is 14500 is red line is 15.5k
View: https://youtu.be/SbfFaud0DHs
This is the sound. Got boost today letting it build up from 1k rpm normally the motor would bog down but she just pulled all the way. Pretty cool.
Idle issues, I think I may have to pull the valve covers and adjust them again some sound loud. Idk I will unhook the charger and let it idle maybe I can hear them then. At this point it looks like a smaller pulley for the Eaton will give me proper rpms.
Seems like the maf is fighting with this setup, not sure but a 1100 idle to stay running isn't cool.
The starter is going out. Figures just got the headers on there too.
And I'm getting an oil soaked breather on that valve cover..... blow maybe? Idk never had a boosted car, maybe I should hook the pcv back up?
I think my issue may be one of two things...
Tb placement, the positive pressure is screwing with the iac at idle.
Or
I need to be able to bypass more air, when I lift to cruising rpm the charger gets loud it's building pressure against the partially closed tb.
Tb placement, the positive pressure is screwing with the iac at idle.
Or
I need to be able to bypass more air, when I lift to cruising rpm the charger gets loud it's building pressure against the partially closed tb.
Soo the inventive/ get er done part of me remembered seeing some adapters at the auto parts store....
So my newest experiment will be moving the tb ahead of the blower with these.
don't mind the coke plug.
And the smileys are working again!
So my newest experiment will be moving the tb ahead of the blower with these.
And the smileys are working again!
....... took her for a drive today, a rather long one actually.
She drives great amazing throttle response, but idle still high 1000-1300 even with the iac unpluged. She will only idle down to 900 na.
Keep in mind I still have not moved the tb.
She runs at 210 if sitting still 190 when moving. She did always run warm tho. I think all of this is due to the tb being after the m90. I will attempt to move the tb but need a way to mount the throttle cable....
How do you tell if you have the right water pump? Could my temp issues be due to wrong rotation?
This is becoming frustrating, I just want to drive my car.
She drives great amazing throttle response, but idle still high 1000-1300 even with the iac unpluged. She will only idle down to 900 na.
Keep in mind I still have not moved the tb.
She runs at 210 if sitting still 190 when moving. She did always run warm tho. I think all of this is due to the tb being after the m90. I will attempt to move the tb but need a way to mount the throttle cable....
How do you tell if you have the right water pump? Could my temp issues be due to wrong rotation?
This is becoming frustrating, I just want to drive my car.
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FWIW, I overspun mine to the tune of about 9-10psi on my 4.6L. These really start making heat after about 6psi on a 280-300ci engine. Knowing your drive and driven pulley diameters would help paint a more accurate picture, but assuming you're shifting at 5,600RPM, that's spinning the blower in the 12,500-13,000RPM range. That also said, when I chose to overdrive the blower, I was seeing high ACT's on the big end and probably seeing blower RPM closer to the 16,000RPM range. @Noobz347 is correct about the effects of heat....,its doubtful you'll see a lot more power by spinning the blower past its efficiency rating...BUT...in my experience, the up side is that the torque curve comes on a lot more quickly in the power band, with very little drop off.
I don't have my dyno sheets in front of me, but if memory serves, I was making as much as 350lbs/ft of torque at the rear wheels with my little bolt on, blown 281 at just a shade over 1,800RPM. I could pretty much break the tires loose at will....even with the cars portly weight.
Also factor in, that you've ported your case a little, which will affect the adiabatic efficiency....to what extent is near impossible to say. You really just need to test.
I don't have my dyno sheets in front of me, but if memory serves, I was making as much as 350lbs/ft of torque at the rear wheels with my little bolt on, blown 281 at just a shade over 1,800RPM. I could pretty much break the tires loose at will....even with the cars portly weight.
Also factor in, that you've ported your case a little, which will affect the adiabatic efficiency....to what extent is near impossible to say. You really just need to test.
My monkey math says I have a 2:1 ratio
6" drive pulley
3" driven pulley
That's 11k ish rpm
Before I go doing anything more for power tho I need to figure out why I am running hot, why the car cranks over like it has a big block with high compression, and how to effectively move the tb. The compressor pushing against the tb plate will slowly build IAT up, I thought the intercooler would negate this effect but driving the car has proven otherwise, it would be fine for a race application but I run mine in the street.
I understand (most) of the theory behind the roots I did a lot of research before diving into this, truth be told for what my "low buck" system has cost I could have purchased an on3 turbo system or used Centri blower setup
6" drive pulley
3" driven pulley
That's 11k ish rpm
Before I go doing anything more for power tho I need to figure out why I am running hot, why the car cranks over like it has a big block with high compression, and how to effectively move the tb. The compressor pushing against the tb plate will slowly build IAT up, I thought the intercooler would negate this effect but driving the car has proven otherwise, it would be fine for a race application but I run mine in the street.
I understand (most) of the theory behind the roots I did a lot of research before diving into this, truth be told for what my "low buck" system has cost I could have purchased an on3 turbo system or used Centri blower setup
I tried to move the tb before the charger, the results were mixed....
It just mashed in all the couplers when under vacuum. Lmfao should have seen that coming!!
Oohhhh well not sure where to go from here ideas?
It just mashed in all the couplers when under vacuum. Lmfao should have seen that coming!!
Oohhhh well not sure where to go from here ideas?
Well after some more searching it looks like I will either have to deal with the whine all the time or put on 2 tb.....
One before the charger and one at the plenum.......
I guess my system was poorly designed from the start, if I spin the blower faster to build more boost then this symptom will get worse.
This sucks.
I have toyed with the idea of building a bypass plate in the tubing leading to the blower.... but can't figure out how to make it happen.....
Two tb will look silly as well as figuring out placement, I wish I would have just put this money tward a turbo kit....
One before the charger and one at the plenum.......
I guess my system was poorly designed from the start, if I spin the blower faster to build more boost then this symptom will get worse.
This sucks.
I have toyed with the idea of building a bypass plate in the tubing leading to the blower.... but can't figure out how to make it happen.....
Two tb will look silly as well as figuring out placement, I wish I would have just put this money tward a turbo kit....
Don't beat yourself up. The On3 kits are junk and you'll spend far more than their "introductory price" getting one to work.
Post some pics what you're trying to do. People probably aren't responding, because they're having trouble visualizing?
Post some pics what you're trying to do. People probably aren't responding, because they're having trouble visualizing?
You don't know how many times I had to read that before it sunk in.I'm not sure I would have seen that coming either. Never had to fab an inlet though. It's always been solid.
What made you want to try swapping the TB to the inlet?
Yeah, you need something a lot smaller than a TB. It needs to be about an inch across, seal like a TB, and you'll need a vacuum diaphragm to make it work.
This might help give you some ideas:
supercharger bypass | eBay
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