MAD EASY!!!! homemade mil eliminators

Discussion in 'SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech' started by krly79, Dec 10, 2003.


  1. SliverStang

    SliverStang New Member

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    can someone post a pic of how theres looks like so i can a better idea of how it goes together?
    #21
  2. hognutz

    hognutz New Member

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    you can buy higher temp solder with higher silver content if you are having that problems with it melting. they have sloder that will not melt ill like 300 °c or 600 °F

    if you get leader caps and resistors it could all be done via crimping.

    funny thing I have seen this diagram before but when I bought my offroad pipe I could not find it anywhere. I got my plug in mills off ebay for $40 but this would have saved me some coin.


    as far as the pcb goes it is not a must have. It just makes it so you can't be sloppy and get a short in your wiring.
    #22
  3. PezKing

    PezKing New Member

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    so you just splice into the factory wires and insert the necesary resistors and capacitors, then wrap it back up? sweeeeet @$$!!
    any tips on getting through the inspection lane without the cats?
    #23
  4. SliverStang

    SliverStang New Member

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    I just made some. Is this what it is sopposed to look like?

    Attached Files:

    #24
  5. krly79

    krly79 Member

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    that should be good. Just make sure that you don't have a solder bridge on the cap leads and that you connect it just as the diagram shows. You should rap it with electrical tape or heat shrink or something to keep the elements off. You could even rap it in tape or heat shrink and then aluminum foil, to keep the heat off if you were worried, and then some more tape or heat shrink. Be creative!
    #25
  6. SliverStang

    SliverStang New Member

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    im going to get some heat shrink monday and put over it and then ill put some exhaust tape on top of that on it to keep the heat out. I used the high temp soider so it wounldn't melt. I hope it works! The long tubes and Xpipe should be going in next saturday.
    #26
  7. PezKing

    PezKing New Member

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    i went and bought the parts today, but i have about a week till the x-pipe comes in. anyone have a clearer pic? the one wire looks blue in that one. did the wire colors change with different years? i have a 2000 GT
    #27
  8. krly79

    krly79 Member

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    The picture that your looking at is something someone made and they just happen to use blue wire on that side. You can use whatever you want to, just as long as it is wired per the wiring diagram at the begining of the thread (also the one middle way down). I think that the color code is the same throughout the newer years, but I'm not completely sure. If they are different look at a chilton for an 03 GT (because mine was that color) and follow it back to wherever it goes and look at one for a 2000 and do the same thing to make sure where it goes. Should be the same color though.
    #28
  9. claytucc3

    claytucc3 New Member

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    OK here is a question, If I buy an o/r x pipe and then make these homemade mil eliminaors will it affect my car when I put the stock H pipe back on the car for my emmisions tests in Cali?
    #29
  10. krly79

    krly79 Member

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    It shouldn't no. It just fools your computer into thinking that the rear o2's are working correctly. So if you were to put your cats back on and and they were going bad, then it wouldn't give you a check engine light. I don't know anything about emissions checks though, never had one... never had to :D
    #30
  11. claytucc3

    claytucc3 New Member

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    cool that is what I thought. Thanks man
    #31
  12. fastangboi

    fastangboi My first set of nuts vibrated themselves off.

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    this stinks

    I ordered the single wire splice in MIL eliminator and those worked for like 20 minutes before it threw code. Then i made my own with a capacitor and resistor. Ive been doing wiring sence i was 13 so i know i didnt mess it up. But the home made ones are throwing code too. :shrug: id tell anyone else it was the o2 sensor but i wasnt throwing code before the X-pipe went in. :bang: any help would be great.
    #32
  13. jstreet0204

    jstreet0204 Active Member

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    find out what the code is. If it pops up that quick I'm betting it is a faulty circuit code.
    #33
  14. UCF1Slider

    UCF1Slider New Member

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    So just to make sure I am reading the diagram right...

    You leave the black wire intact. You connect a 1 micro farad capacitor from the black wire to the gray wire. After the capacitor (on the gray wire) you cut the gray wire and connect a 1 mega ohm resistor in-line to the other side?

    Thanks for your help!
    #34
  15. COramprat

    COramprat Drone Driver Mod Dude

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    You need to do this on a circuit board. Then you can attach the capacitor in parallel to the grey and black and the resistor in series on the grey wire. Get some shrink wrap and seal the whole thing tight. Radio Shack should have everything you need.
    #35
  16. 96vertGT

    96vertGT New Member

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    Will this work...

    ...on all fords or just the 4.6 mustangs? Are there different values to different computers and model of engines? Would this say work in my Torrus or my F-150?

    Thanks
    Mike
    #36
  17. SeanD1111

    SeanD1111 New Member

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    Any 4 wire O2 sensor.
    #37
  18. fastangboi

    fastangboi My first set of nuts vibrated themselves off.

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    i didnt use a board, i uesd heat shrink. been working great for +1,000miles. I wired them directly into the O2 sensor. Work awesome, for less than $10 total project cost.
    #38
  19. fastangboi

    fastangboi My first set of nuts vibrated themselves off.

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    my previos prob was because i was running a single wilre style. that threw a left code. i made my own but only threw it on the left. Then it threw the right. installed it on that side and its been working fine ever sence.
    #39
  20. BlackenedSVT

    BlackenedSVT Active Member

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    Aren't regular MIL eliminators like $20? :shrug:
    #40

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