Maf Upgrade

[Glocker23]

Not sure where to post this and if this is in the wrong spot I apologize.

I have a 92 LX 5.0. The car was modded by prior owner so still finding things. I noticed it has a bbk 65mm throttle body. Bbk air intake in the fender. And what looks like a stock maf. The throttle is wicked rough at times due to a f303 cam but i was wondering if this stock maf would be part of the issue? The sensor reads f1zf-12b579-aa. The housing looks old and does not look like any design on American muscle website so I am assuming it's the stocker.

So if it is a possible cause, what kind or pieces would you upgrade it to? Also looking on the site I noticed some maf comes with injectors. I have no idea what kind of injectors are in there now.

Thanks in advance for any help with this




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[mikestang63]

Your MAF is a stock 58mm unit. Your rough idle could be from a few thing, but I doutbt it is because of the F cam. The F cam is way too much LSA 114 for an otherwise stock motor. They are mean for cars with heads, a supercharger, etc and make power in the upper portion of the rpm range Howver the wider LSA should not produce a lumpy bad idle like a B or E cam

That being said.........

• what color are your injectors... your MAF is for 19# orangeyellow top injectors
• Do you have a chip on the EEC
• is your MAF screen intact. is the screen or sensor wire dirty
• possible vacuum leaks
• have you run the codes- could be a bad ECT, IAT. TPS
• What is your timing set at

 

[Glocker23]

Can I run codes if no cel is lit? Last owner said they never chipped it. Not sure of rest. Def have no idea if timing or ability to check.

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[Glocker23]

It runs so rough sometimes at idle the motor is visibility bouncing and surging especially at idle. Past owner also pulled all emissions equipment. But runs good after solid warm up. Except motor has visible bounce still

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[mikestang63]

Can I run codes if no cel is lit? Last owner said they never chipped it. Not sure of rest. Def have no idea if timing or ability to check.

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yes- often codes are present without the CEL tripped. Search the archive sticky for how to run the codes and report back what codes if any are present. You will want to run the key on engine off, key on engine running, and the cylinder balance tests.
@jrichker please for how to run the codes

 

[Glocker23]

I have a code reader I bought through Amazon. Recommended by this or another site. Will give it a try. By running it I can't accidentally trip that limp mode I have been reading about cam i?

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[Glocker23]

Stock injectors then. They look almsot Rusty lol.

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[jrichker]

I have a code reader I bought through Amazon. Recommended by this or another site. Will give it a try. By running it I can't accidentally trip that limp mode I have been reading about cam i?

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The only 2 things you can do with a code reader is to read the codes and clear them.

Clearing the codes does not fix what set them, it just erases the codes stored in memory.

Dump codes sticky

Look at the top of the 5.0 Tech forum where the sticky threads are posted. One of them is how to dump the computer codes. Codes may be present even if the CEL(Check Engine Light) isn’t on. I highly suggest that you read it and follow the instructions to dump the codes. http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/how-to-pull-codes-from-eec4.889006/

 

[Glocker23]

Will take a read tonight at work. I recently bought this INNOVA Ford Digital Code Reader off Amazon cuz the other way I couldn't figure out

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[OneWheelPeel]

clean your maf. That's what I would try first.

 

[OneWheelPeel]

And check your eec for a chip. Its inside the passenger kick panel. The other day I randomly decided to look at the eec and I found a chip attached.