Making progress on 5.0 swap - Riding high?

[whatagearhead]

Hello all - haven't posted in a while, but my son (My70stang) and I have made good progress on the 5.0/T5 swap in his '70 coupe. The engine/trans are now in the car. We rebuilt the entire front end and installed a Randall's rack. Clutch cable is mostly in (waiting on headers) and everything is coming together.

We had a few gotchas with the "too large booster" on the MP brake kit - remedied with a stock power rebuilt booster (larger booster didn't align with the bracket for the cable clutch). We also had to send back the Patriot Clipper headers to Summit (didn't clear the linkage on Randall's rack). It's always tough making sure all the aftermarket kits play well together. I modified a bracket in order to let Randall's PS pump work in conjunction with the compressor in the A/C kit (we're using a serpentine belt set-up).

The one thing I'm baffled about is the height of the front end after installing V8 springs from Summit. We swapped out the original 6 Cyl springs. All ball joints replaced, etc.. but even after the motor was installed it sits very high in the front end. Still no radiator, pumps, alternator, hood etc... but It isn't enough weight to drop it where I think it ought to sit.

Any ideas? I'll try and post some pics tomorrow.

Thanks, Tom

 

[D.Hearne]

Cut a coil from each spring.

 

[DJCarbine]

Roll the car back and forth and bounce it a bit. The suspension might need to settle a little

 

[whatagearhead]

Here are some pics - If we cut a coil should we take it from the top or bottom? I'm assuming the bottom. Man, I hate the thought of pulling those bad boys back out, but the tool I found on eBay really does help (mounts in shock location).

View attachment 380020

View attachment 380021

View attachment 380022

View attachment 380023

 

[Rusty67]

Does the front end even lower at all ? Maybe yer shocks are frozen in the up position ? If you pull both of the shocks does the car drop ?

Looks like you got that duraspark in there

If you are going to cut the coils, you cut them from the bottem. That tool that bolts to the spring perch is sweet. Makes life EASY.

You may want to buy a set of 620 1" drop springs if you can still return the ones you bought from summit.

 

[ron67fb]

What springs/part# did you order?

I wouldn't cut anything until you drive it or roll it back and forth many times. The tires are also scrubbing sideways due to the camber curve and will not settle the springs unless you have alignment turntables under the tires or you roll the car. Cutting brand new springs when the front end weight isn't finalized and the car hasn't been driven is a bad idea. Cutting is easy so save it for last. You can't add coils if you mess up.

 

[whatagearhead]

Thanks for the replies guys!!!

They are Moog MOG-8234 SB Ford OEM replacements.

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=MOG-8234&N=700+0&autoview=sku

I won't mind trying to leave them in. It was a lot of work getting them in there in the first place

I still have a fair amout of weight to add with the hood, pumps, pulleys, compressor, alt, radiator, fluids, exhaust, etc... We have actually turned the car around (pushed into street and back into garage) and bounced on it/rolled it back forth and what you see in the pics is where it is after this.

They appear to be the right springs, so alignment, settling, and additional weight should help. I just don't want it to look like a 60's gasser when all is said and done



View attachment 379959

 

[geostang351]

WOW That sits up high! What size Cragars are those 13"?

 

[whatagearhead]

they are 15" rims and 60 series BF Goodrich radial TA tires

 

[Carnivore]

Add some bumper weights..

I think the green would go nicely as well.

 

[bsedwebt70-5.0]

Add the hood, engine accessories, radiator, fluids, etc... push down on it and bounce it about - it will settle down. If it is still high then it is a good time to re-drill the upper control arm mount holes 1 3/4 inch lower and use the negative camber wedge kit and the square eccentric kit from Pro-Motorsports Engineering - this will lower the front a bit and make it handle lots better. Also DO NOT forget to add a monte carlo bar and export brace that will not allow the shock towers to twist - the tube shaped export braces allow the towers to twist - I found out the hard way with my 1970 5.0FI conversion and had to modify a "U" shaped Shelby style unit to stop the twist.

 

[ShortThrow50]

goodness gracious. I would just toss out the whole suspension setup and start over

 

[66Runt]

.

 

[whatagearhead]

Also DO NOT forget to add a monte carlo bar and export brace that will not allow the shock towers to twist

Thanks all for the advice. As for the Monte Carlo brace and the export brace (non-tubular) we do have these, but took them back off to get better access to mount the power booster and clutch cable bracket. I had also wanted to release the shocks to see if that helped the car settle a bit. I think I'll give 66Runt's advice a shot once we get the wiring and exhaust finalized. That procedure makes a lot of sense. Thanks again guys

Here is the test fit on the export brace before we pulled it back off:

View attachment 379710