Progress Thread Matt's 93 Lx - Running Issues
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Sounds like a solid plan. You will have about 750$ additional into heads and intake porting over the initial purchase price. Just a FYI. Check out an Anderson n41(I think that's the grind number?) camshaft. You'll see them used every once in awhile on the corral.net and it was designed for gt40 heads. Even new they are around 300$. Definitely an aggressive sounding idle but works well.Ok small update, to keep the thread alive. I've been driving the car a lot and it's running great. 150 miles around town just this weekend. I got new headlight adjusters from LMR so I can finally see pretty well at night. I also popped in the replacement corner light and it's better, but not as good as the OEM was. This second one did not require any trimming like the first one did though.
So winter plans for the car - the motor will most likely be yanked out in order to gain some access to the strut towers. They aren't in bad shape but could definitely use some cleaning up and rust proof coating put on. My buddy is looking for an explorer that he can steal the 8.8 from for his Cherokee, so I told him to look out for a 96/97 that I can take the heads and intake from. There's a few around for ~$400. Split that in half, then junk the explorer after and then the heads and intake are dirt cheap. Send out the lower to TMoss and get some alex valve springs and a cam (TFS1/lunati/comp) to round off a very budget HCI. Thoughts? I still have that pile of parts from earlier that need to be installed. Upper and lower control arms, rear shocks, subframe connectors, 3.73s, and a full rear end rebuild kit.
In case anyone didn't see it on the other thread, here's a pic:
What do you guys think of a set of supposedly low mile 3 bar gt40s, with upgraded springs and new valve seals, roller rockers, pushrods, ford racing lifters, and a lunati cam all for (asking) $550? I'm going to look at it all this weekend. It fits my budget at least!
I also picked up a 3G alternator and all the parts to make it work.
I also picked up a 3G alternator and all the parts to make it work.
nickpic
Advanced Member
I think it's a decent deal if the heads are in good shape and ready to bolt on. I would def consider it.
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Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk
The Mustang got some love this weekend, finally! Full rear end rebuild including new bearings, seals, 3.73 gears and carbon trac lock disks. I also did the 3G upgrade with a 4ga power wire. I started doing the rear control arms but only got the lowers done. Older Hotchkis arms that were given to me by the previous owner, but resprayed and fresh bushings. The driveshaft front u-joint was pretty shot so I swapped that out too, but the vibration I had at highway speed before is still there, and much worse now. I'm thinking a new aluminum driveshaft will be on order in the spring.
The gears help a ton though! It feels like a new car. I can also have the headlights on and the hvac fan on high at idle, and no charging issues.
The car is going into storage in a week or two for the winter, so I won't have it out until mid march or so. At that point I'll finish up the control arms, put in the subframe connectors, and fix a few odds and ends on the interior (mainly ash tray door fix and bypass the stock amp). If I'm still feeling adventurous after that I'll look into a head and intake setup, or maybe a vortech if one pops up on CL
The gears help a ton though! It feels like a new car. I can also have the headlights on and the hvac fan on high at idle, and no charging issues.
The car is going into storage in a week or two for the winter, so I won't have it out until mid march or so. At that point I'll finish up the control arms, put in the subframe connectors, and fix a few odds and ends on the interior (mainly ash tray door fix and bypass the stock amp). If I'm still feeling adventurous after that I'll look into a head and intake setup, or maybe a vortech if one pops up on CL
In order to get the new s-spring in, I used a bench vise to compress it and then held it closed with some vise grip pliers. Someone here might have a better method, though. The downside to doing it that way is the pliers will leave some scratches on it.
That's a good idea! I used long needle nose and stuck it through the carrier and squeezed the spring and pulled it through, while pushing through the back. The new spring was too tight to use that method though. I did use the old shims that were in there (.045) instead of the new shims that came with the carbon disk kit (.030). The spiders went in nicely though.
mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
A lot of guys use a truck S spring as it is beefier than the Mustang one. Old skool trick. I use a hose clamp to tighten down the S spring and then just cut the hose clamp after installed.
Thanks for the responses guys. I was searching on American Muscle and ran across this on the description of the FRPP carbon disk kit:
Complete Kit For 31-Spline. This complete kit includes the clutch pack, shims, s-spring (31-spline), and an instruction sheet so you'll have everything you need.
Technical Note: 28 spline Mustangs will require use of a 28 spline S-spring (not included).
Complete Kit For 31-Spline. This complete kit includes the clutch pack, shims, s-spring (31-spline), and an instruction sheet so you'll have everything you need.
Technical Note: 28 spline Mustangs will require use of a 28 spline S-spring (not included).
nickpic
Advanced Member
i read the same thing in the instructions when i did mine not long ago. i also re-used the old S-spring. mine has been fine and it locks up better than it ever has.
Ok guys so I've been pretty quiet the last few months, but I've been searching e-bay and craigslist and waiting for the right deals.
So far I have:
Edelbrock performer 5.0 intake
TFS1 cam and ford racing lifters
bare 3 bar GT40 heads
aluminum driveshaft
Steeda strut tower brace
MM full length sub-frame connectors
I still have to pick up all the little things that go with a HCI swap like head bolts, intake manifold bolts, water pump, t-stat, timing chain, gaskets, etc. First I have to blast and paint the intake manifold and heads, and then assemble the heads.
I was looking at Alex parts valves, and the TFS spring kit. Any opinions? Or does anyone have GT40 valves they would let go?
Also, what head gaskets and intake manifold gaskets should I get for this combo? I've seen so many different recommendations. Thanks guys.
So far I have:
Edelbrock performer 5.0 intake
TFS1 cam and ford racing lifters
bare 3 bar GT40 heads
aluminum driveshaft
Steeda strut tower brace
MM full length sub-frame connectors
I still have to pick up all the little things that go with a HCI swap like head bolts, intake manifold bolts, water pump, t-stat, timing chain, gaskets, etc. First I have to blast and paint the intake manifold and heads, and then assemble the heads.
I was looking at Alex parts valves, and the TFS spring kit. Any opinions? Or does anyone have GT40 valves they would let go?
Also, what head gaskets and intake manifold gaskets should I get for this combo? I've seen so many different recommendations. Thanks guys.
mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
should be a nice little combo around 260-270rwhp. To answer your questions.
- Valve Springs- I like the TFS ones but both will do. I think with Alex's springs you have to by the locks or retainers separate?
- GT40 valves are just plain ole Explorer valves- you can source them anywhere
- Head gasket- hard to beat Felpro 9333pt1
- Intake gasket- get the kit made for the Explorer by Felpro with the steel reinforcement- someone has the p/n Do not get the standard print o seal gaskets. they fall apart. You want the ones with the S at the end of the p/n
- exhaust gasket- Mr gasket copper or percy's would be my choice
Awesome, thank you for the info. I added the 9333PT1's to my shopping list. Did some research on the intake gaskets, is 1250S3 what you're talking about?
I was planning on getting the TFS spring kit, and then just the valves from Alex's, unless some used valves fall into my lap.
I planned on picking up a pushrod checking tool to make sure everything is good. I haven't picked out rockers yet. I COULD stick with the stock stamped rockers right? I know theyre not ideal, but just as an option.
Thanks again
I was planning on getting the TFS spring kit, and then just the valves from Alex's, unless some used valves fall into my lap.
I planned on picking up a pushrod checking tool to make sure everything is good. I haven't picked out rockers yet. I COULD stick with the stock stamped rockers right? I know theyre not ideal, but just as an option.
Thanks again
mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
Yep that is the intake gasket
You can reuse the stock rockers but depending on the miles they could be worn and often wear to their specific pushrod and pedestal. If it were ME. I would replace the lifters, pushrods and rockers while you have it torn apart
Update guys! I picked up an assembled set of GT40s with roller rockers from a 94 lightning instead of messing with the bare ones. Also going to change the springs to the Trick Flow kit. Hopefully in a few weeks I can yank the motor and start swapping the top end parts. One of the strut towers needs a little cleaning and coating so with no engine in there it will be much easier.
Last weekend I installed MM full length subframe connectors and the MM clutch cable kit. The pedal pressure is about 1/2 of what it was before with the BBK quadrant and aftermarket cable! I couldn't believe it. The subframes really help stiffen up the car too.
Last weekend I installed MM full length subframe connectors and the MM clutch cable kit. The pedal pressure is about 1/2 of what it was before with the BBK quadrant and aftermarket cable! I couldn't believe it. The subframes really help stiffen up the car too.
Good for you brother. Been a bit since youve been here. Glad to hear there's progress being made.
Ok keeping this thread alive! Parts have been slowly trickling in as budget comes available and LMR sales pop up...new BBK headers, TFS spring kit, bunch of gaskets. Still need to order a few things but the big one is I'm going to look at a shortblock out of a 1990. It's one town over and supposed to be in good, runnable shape and he only wants $250. I can build that up and then swap it into my car over a weekend. Depending on how the cross hatching looks ill decide if i want to go through the effort to do rings, etc. Pics to come!
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