Max Motorsports Road & Track box? + torque arm?

[sizleen]

I plan on autocrossing, drag and street use. How many of you guys run the road and track box? Is it the bomb or what? What springs to get? Race or super sport? With the race springs does it beat you up on the street? Do you keep the quad shocks with that kit? How about the race valved bilsteins, are they worth the upgrade? With a blower, 373's and slicks should I run the torque arm too? How much stiffer does that make it? Is the performance worth it for the sacrafic in ride comfort? I really don't care if it is stiff if the car rips asphalt! I just don't want to be bouncing down the road like a rice burner on cut springs ya know!! help me out yo!

 

[xenon]

Not only did you ask 10 questions.. you posted it twice!

 

[jadesville]

Not only did you ask 10 questions.. you posted it twice!

i think it was an accident

 

[Spitfire]

I plan on autocrossing, drag and street use. How many of you guys run the road and track box? Is it the bomb or what? What springs to get? Race or super sport? With the race springs does it beat you up on the street? Do you keep the quad shocks with that kit? How about the race valved bilsteins, are they worth the upgrade? With a blower, 373's and slicks should I run the torque arm too? How much stiffer does that make it? Is the performance worth it for the sacrafic in ride comfort? I really don't care if it is stiff if the car rips asphalt! I just don't want to be bouncing down the road like a rice burner on cut springs ya know!! help me out yo!

I have a modified version of the R&T Box with the Torque arm. So let me see, its a good all around setup, I lost a little at the drag strip do to stiffer springs. But the street handling and open track handling are light years from stock. I run the supersport springs up front with the torque arm rates out back. This seems to work well, not too stiff, not too low.
I still have my quad shocks, are they necessary, I dunno. Race valved bilsteins would be overkill unless you are doing coil overs. I would get the torque arm, regardless, its that good. My ride comfort has not been sacrificed, the TA setup is not some extreme suspension, its been used for years on many vehicles.

Click the link in my sig to see my mods. Hope you got the answers you were looking for.

 

[sizleen]

thanks for the feedback man, greatly appreciated. On the m&m website it says that with the torque arm you can bail the quad shocks and the upper control arms to free up the rear end. Thanks again!! lates

 

[Atlanta_GTer]

Great setup for street and Auto-x racing. NOT the setup for drag racing, which is why I will be changing things out. My car will be a daily driver, but moving towards a 1/4 track beast. This suspension is not the one to have with the type of HP I am working on. Just way too stiff. I will certainly miss the handling capabilities though.
I was already planning on selling the Bilsteins and H&R Race springs soon, but if you are interested, we might can work something out now. This has been on the car for about 18,000 miles so its just now broken in and far from worn down. PM me if interested.

 

[GT98SVO]

The rear end stuff, torque arm, lower control arms, and panhard will help in all areas of racing. Make sure to get the heavy duty pieces for supercharged/heavy cars.

H&R Race will stink for drag racing. There is no real spring that can cover all three types of racing well.

MM makes quality stuff. I run their C/C plates.

 

[Cali03Boss]

Hey, and let me start by saying its nice to know theres another autoxer in here!

First off, Maximum Motorsports I have found to be the best company, no comparison as far as Mustang Road racing and autox performance. I've tested steeda, kenny brown, eibach, and Maximum Motorsports is the only company that has pushed my car into 2nd place Autox Southern California Regional championship. I highly reccommend all of their products, however quality comes with problems as well. They are kinda expensive, but not too harsh, as well most of their applications are very hard to install. Many shops turned my down on their full length subframes because oh the complexity. I currently have their Eibach Racing spring set, C/C, their STB, and their full length frames on my car. I will be soon installing their rear control arms, rear sway bar, panhard bar, and torque arm. Those applications, it'll be near impossible to fishtail the car. Those are my reccomendations, here is the order I would do them in order to not seriosuly affect your driving skill ( taking it slower is usually better than jumping the gun into a completely different car (feel):

Strut Tower Brace
C/C
Full length Subframes
H&R or Eibach Racing springs
Full Length subframes
rear sway bar
lower control arms + panhard bar
torque arm

hope you find this helpful, PM me or IM me if you need any further Autox or road racing info

 

[Cali03Boss]

btw...what class are you running in

 

[Black03]

Just a question Cali03Boss but where did you ahve your subframe connectors installed? I've been looking into these and not sure where to go. Thanks

Sorry for hijacking your thread

 

[Cali03Boss]

I got them done by Manning Motorsports in San Macros. www.manningmotorsports.com i highly recommend them, they know what they're doing.

 

[sizleen]

btw...what class are you running in

I don't run in any class yet. I am in a tent in Iraq just waiting to get home to wrench/ race the stang. Are there particular mods that permit you from running a certain class? Do you have any contact info on the rules, tech inspections and whatever I need to get started?

 

[GT98SVO]

I don't run in any class yet. I am in a tent in Iraq just waiting to get home to wrench/ race the stang. Are there particular mods that permit you from running a certain class? Do you have any contact info on the rules, tech inspections and whatever I need to get started?

go to http://www.scca.org and order a rulebook.

There are lots of restrictions. Some local groups are more stringent than others. If you run as novice, they tend to be more lenient on mods. Its when you start to be competitive, do they start to examine more closely. Be careful in the stock classes, a lot of fun stuff to bolt on to Mustangs are not allowed.

A good set of tires is the best mod for racing.

 

[Cali03Boss]

I can give you all the info you'll ever need. With all those mods I listed above installed on the car, you will be in IS1. Which means, it's going to be VERY hard to beat the modified z06s, vipers, ferraris, lambos...ect.

If you have just a STB and some performance you'll be thrown into my class, ESP. E- signifies front motor rwd(or awd) 6 or more cylinders. ES is a stock car with those guidlines ( stock mustang ). ESP is lightly modified. Once you throw on subframes, control arms, panhards...you'll be in SS or super sport. Thats mostly the heavily modified cars combined into one class. That's what I just got transferred to. A torque arm, roll cage, back brace, k-member brace or any of those mods added on to everything else ( subframes, panhard..ect) you'll be in Is1. Which is the 2nd hardest class, stock ferraris go there. Modified Vipers go there. Then if you get better at skill, they give you Is2. Which...don't ever count on getting near the top 5 in a mustang. heh. That's reserved for Porsche GT2s, Heavily modified Vipers and ferraris. I saw a lambo in that class once. Hope this helps

 

[sizleen]

go to http://www.scca.org and order a rulebook.

There are lots of restrictions. Some local groups are more stringent than others. If you run as novice, they tend to be more lenient on mods. Its when you start to be competitive, do they start to examine more closely. Be careful in the stock classes, a lot of fun stuff to bolt on to Mustangs are not allowed.

A good set of tires is the best mod for racing.

What tires have you tried and which do you prefer?

 

[GT98SVO]

What tires have you tried and which do you prefer?

I ran Michelin Pilots, but they were the high mileage Pilots. They are quiet, and sweet ride, but no traction in wet.

Popular tires in SCCA are Kumho Victo Racer, Yokohoma AVS , and Hoosier.

Nitto makes a road racing tire that looks interesting, as well as BFG KD's.

Toyo and Hoosier tend to be expensive. Go to your track and see what others are running. Track temperature, vehicle weight play big here.

 

[Cali03Boss]

hoosiers make ur car undriveable on the street....i'd get super stickey goodyears