Might Need New Rear Lower Control Arms: Which

[mikestang63]

Here's the thing. On ,most street driven cars you don't need anything more than stock uppers. That is why MM doesn't sell them. Factor in the cost of buying cheaper lower and uppers from another company and you are at the same price point as the MM ones. For the uppers, just replace the stock rubber bushings with 94-95 or cobra spec rubber bushings.

 

[Chuckman]

the real reason mm doesn't sell uppers is because they sell torque arms instead. theyre mostly focused on road racing, where the three-link works better. this is about the only thing where, if youre building a pure strip car, you just really cant go full mm.

 

[mikestang63]

the real reason mm doesn't sell uppers is because they sell torque arms instead. theyre mostly focused on road racing, where the three-link works better. this is about the only thing where, if youre building a pure strip car, you just really cant go full mm.

I disagree. I've talked to Jack Hidley- go the MM's site. They don't sell the uppers because they don't think they are needed. How many upper control arms do you think they could sell if they wanted to? Tons. Ask him yourself. He's on the Corral all the time. I've gone deep in the 10's with their lowers and Ford factory uppers. Never had a problem. I'm sure if you drag race all the time and/or do this for a living, you want to dial in the car for a pure drag car, then yes adjustable uppers are the way to go.

However, the OP is not building a drag car so the point is moot. For his application, he doesn''t need aftermarket uppers. Would you agree?

 

[from6to8]

Here's the thing. On ,most street driven cars you don't need anything more than stock uppers. That is why MM doesn't sell them. Factor in the cost of buying cheaper lower and uppers from another company and you are at the same price point as the MM ones. For the uppers, just replace the stock rubber bushings with 94-95 or cobra spec rubber bushings.

i have a set of new stock uppers and new stock bushings that I have had for yrs and my thinking back then must have been to change em out and use those. I am taking the car this morning to get it diagnosed as to what exactly is wrong though. I like what I read from the JnM's one poster provided on page 1 and will read up on the UPR's and BBks. I have saved in my notes some others as well so i will see which ones I think will be better overall being the car won't see the track until maybe another motor and at that time it might be just to time it but I highly doubt it. I really don't care much about all the track stuff, I just want it nice on the streets
Here is the part number of just the new bushing:
1R3Z-5A638-BA

 

[Chuckman]

However, the OP is not building a drag car so the point is moot. For his application, he doesn''t need aftermarket uppers. Would you agree?

Totally agree with this last part, replace the bushings if theyre torn up, but stock will be fine.

 

[from6to8]

I disagree. I've talked to Jack Hidley- go the MM's site. They don't sell the uppers because they don't think they are needed. How many upper control arms do you think they could sell if they wanted to? Tons. Ask him yourself. He's on the Corral all the time. I've gone deep in the 10's with their lowers and Ford factory uppers. Never had a problem. I'm sure if you drag race all the time and/or do this for a living, you want to dial in the car for a pure drag car, then yes adjustable uppers are the way to go.

However, the OP is not building a drag car so the point is moot. For his application, he doesn''t need aftermarket uppers. Would you agree?

This is for everyone and an update on rear suspension check. It really wasnt anything noticable to me and the guy at precision tune who checked the car even though I could tell he wasnt that knowledgeable on the matter. Somewhat but not an expert. At least I could get the car up in the air and take pics which I will post below.

Here is the main issue I am having. When I go over certain low spots in roads and even some railroad tracks at normal speed, I hear the scrape sound from rear and I'm sure the fenderwell lip is hitting the tires with the rear of car going down that far. New shocks and struts put on last year, new isolators, struts, and all front end work. Tires are 295 35 18's in rear on 18x10 wheels. I did notice the way I was parked in garage for a week since drove car before today, it appeared car was leaning or squatting more in rear but it didnt look so that way today in shop so not sure if it was my garage floor or what. Not exactly sure but using 2 fingers check there and when got home, there is just a lil more than a hair difference using the 2 finger check method which is what can get between rear tire and fender lip. Also looking at the lowers, I wonder why the arm isnt the width of the housing? The arm is resting on the bushing though the bushing has a rubber sleeve. Also do the arm need to be more centered on the bushing?

I just hate that dawggone scraping sound when I hit those spots in road, it's irritating and appears the tires are being hit some, can actually see it. I even rolled fender lips some with a baseball bat sometime last year. I want to make sure everything in rear is up to par so here are pics below and let me know what yall think I might need to do/change.

pic 6 is in next post

 

[from6to8]

also another pic, compare pic 7 to one of the other 5 and you should be able to see how one is centered and the other side appears the arm is more to the end of the bushing/housing

 

[Chuckman]

If tires are rubbing, its probably on the inside of the wheel well, about a 275 is about the widest you can really go without some kind of work with a bfh. A 295 is almost an inch wider than that.

The bushings in those arms do look pretty tired though, I would at least throw some new bushings in there, I would almost bet a call to prothane or energy with some measurements would find what you need (they probably make most of the a/m arm bushings, or at least the material for them)

 

[Sharad]

Yeah, those bushings look worn out to me. There's a lot of tech that goes into the bushing design, and unfortunately, not all aftermarket arms have good quality bushings and pins.

 

[from6to8]

If tires are rubbing, its probably on the inside of the wheel well, about a 275 is about the widest you can really go without some kind of work with a bfh. A 295 is almost an inch wider than that.

The bushings in those arms do look pretty tired though, I would at least throw some new bushings in there, I would almost bet a call to prothane or energy with some measurements would find what you need (they probably make most of the a/m arm bushings, or at least the material for them)

when i bought those arms at first, the ones that came in the Mac arms actually crumbled up. How do you know when Polys are worn? Mine are actually energy suspensions the bushings that we swapped out before

 

[7upstang91]

Just switched from Steeda upper and lowers to UPR. No reason other than wanting to go faster, given UPR has proven the suspension wins.

All say this, both were great control arms hands down. I wouldn't hesitate to put either on my car. The fit and finish are great on both pair. The UPR's were lighter.

However, I sixty footed better on the UPR suspension first pass off the trailer with no other changes than a blown head gasket, I was fighting cooling issues only to find a blown head gasket.

 

[from6to8]

Just switched from Steeda upper and lowers to UPR. No reason other than wanting to go faster, given UPR has proven the suspension wins.

All say this, both were great control arms hands down. I wouldn't hesitate to put either on my car. The fit and finish are great on both pair. The UPR's were lighter.

However, I sixty footed better on the UPR suspension first pass off the trailer with no other changes than a blown head gasket, I was fighting cooling issues only to find a blown head gasket.

Also, when I did the engine swap back in 02, the rear end came out of a 96-98 convertible GT. I noticed on for instance Trick vert's car and even my boy's car, which I had forgot to inquire about, there are quad shocks on the rear right? Is that something that I need to get and put on the car? Advantages and disadvantages of having them on/not on?

 

[mikestang63]

If you go with aftermarket control arms you might not need the quad shocks. If you do still get wheel hop, put them back them on.

 

[7upstang91]

I do not run quad shocks. Zero hop at all. You should be fine.

 

[mikestang63]

If you do need to put them on, you can reverse them for more tire clearance.