MIL Eliminators on O/R X-Pipe?

[WRXracer]

ok

have fun with the mod..

 

[EH819]

make sure you wrap them up good..

What should they be wrapped in?

 

[HoustonGT]

Im going with the plug-in ones, what problems have people been having?

P.S.- They're on Ebay for $45.49 shipped, a good price.

 

['96&'01Stang]

I heard of a bunch of people install them and they are bad right from the beginning or they go bad within a few days

 

[KaPPaBaLL]

Im going with the plug-in ones, what problems have people been having?

P.S.- They're on Ebay for $45.49 shipped, a good price.

as far as i know none. Everyone at mustangworld basically uses these plug ins. no problems what so ever. But then again, maybe we all got lucky.. :whoknows:

 

[SALEENstang96]

I bought a set of MIL Eliminators for Brother's Performance to the tune of about $60.00! BIGGEST waste of money! I had ran the car for quite a while w/o them then I got them and installed em' Only thing is: I for got to unplug the battery when I did it. The car runs fine but the damn light is STILL ON! I unplugged the battery for a while and reconnected it and drove around until it went through a complete drive cycle, it stayed off; only to come back on again later. I know it's not a genuine problem because I've got an OBDII scanner at work (it shows the P422 or P402 code or something like that, I can't remeber-- excessive exhaust on banks 1 and 2; or something like that). I've even cleared the code with the scanner but it STILL doesn't work. Should I order a NEW set or what? Thanks for ANY help!

-Mike

 

[Craig Mack]

I bought a set of MIL Eliminators for Brother's Performance to the tune of about $60.00! BIGGEST waste of money! I had ran the car for quite a while w/o them then I got them and installed em' Only thing is: I for got to unplug the battery when I did it. The car runs fine but the damn light is STILL ON! I unplugged the battery for a while and reconnected it and drove around until it went through a complete drive cycle, it stayed off; only to come back on again later. I know it's not a genuine problem because I've got an OBDII scanner at work (it shows the P422 or P402 code or something like that, I can't remeber-- excessive exhaust on banks 1 and 2; or something like that). I've even cleared the code with the scanner but it STILL doesn't work. Should I order a NEW set or what? Thanks for ANY help!

-Mike

Same here!!!!!! I just picked my car up from the tranny shop, and there was no CEL. Then all of a sudden it comes on out of NO WHERE. What the hell?

 

['96&'01Stang]

You guys must be wrong....Kappa Ball and all of mustangworld says they work fine

 

[KaPPaBaLL]

[QUOTE='96&'01Stang]You guys must be wrong....Kappa Ball and all of mustangworld says they work fine[/QUOTE]

hahahha

 

[DHGBullitt4.6]

the plug in kind of MIL's do work. I've had them on my car for about a year with no problems.

 

[Craig Mack]

Visually, the MIL's I got looked in perfect condition. They were installed in between the o2's clamps just like instructed. The sensors were screwed back in, car started, and a little while later, our friend Mr. CEL comes back.

D'oh x 5.

 

[snowb07]

I have the pluggins and the work great,,,
-fred

 

[HoustonGT]

Seems like some of the people that are having problems are the ones that forget to disconnect the battery to reset the computer. I hope mine work.

 

[98BLKHRSE]

i have the same problem as these guys..i did reset the computer first...i did install them in the correct spot...the engine code is for those oxygen sensors...ive even used the scanner tool to erase the code and reset the battery...no matter what, the engine light is back on after a few mins of driving...i called a tech at STEEDA and he told me sometimes you need TWO sets of MIL's to fix this type of problem....ive never heard of that and was wondering if any of you have...my feeling is if the first set didnt work, i dont think a second set is gonna fix the problem besides they are $60 a set.

 

[Craig Mack]

Seems like some of the people that are having problems are the ones that forget to disconnect the battery to reset the computer. I hope mine work.

I didn't forget, and my CEL still came on.

 

[HoustonGT]

I see, i just hope mine work. Would suck to waste 60 bucks

 

[COBRA90GT]

I'm not even going to comment on half the BULLSHIOT that these guys are giving you.

Anyway, if you want the MILs get the plug in kind. Plug and play.. www.ebay.com
Splice in my ass

I'm sorry, but HuskerCobra96 is not one of those guys spewing forth any BS in this thread. If you are a fan of plug and play, that's fine - you are entitled to your opinion.
However, splicing in another brand of MIL Elims doesn't make them any lesser. Hell, if I had a nickel for everytime I came across a thread on here or over on Corral about a user having plug & play MIL problems, I would be rich!

I have yet to see someone complain about HuskerCobra96's MIL Elims not functioning properly...

 

['96&'01Stang]

I'm sorry, but HuskerCobra96 is not one of those guys spewing forth any BS in this thread. If you are a fan of plug and play, that's fine - you are entitled to your opinion.
However, splicing in another brand of MIL Elims doesn't make them any lesser. Hell, if I had a nickel for everytime I came across a thread on here or over on Corral about a user having plug & play MIL problems, I would be rich!

I have yet to see someone complain about HuskerCobra96's MIL Elims not functioning properly...

So true

 

[COBRA90GT]

i have the same problem as these guys..i did reset the computer first...i did install them in the correct spot...the engine code is for those oxygen sensors...ive even used the scanner tool to erase the code and reset the battery...no matter what, the engine light is back on after a few mins of driving...i called a tech at STEEDA and he told me sometimes you need TWO sets of MIL's to fix this type of problem....ive never heard of that and was wondering if any of you have...my feeling is if the first set didnt work, i dont think a second set is gonna fix the problem besides they are $60 a set.

LMAO!!! WTF is it about the Mustang community and tech personnel trying to scam 'stangers out of their hard earned money. Two pairs of MIL Elims - what a crock of horseshyte!

98BLKHRSE - You are correct. You only need one set of MIL Elims, attached to the rear O2 sensors, in order for it to work. You need intact, healthy, O2 sensors in order for the MIL Elims to properly "fool" the PCM/car's computer. If the first set of MIL Elims you purchased are NOT working (and your vehicle is NOT throwing diagnostic codes for ANY OTHER reasons, which is why it's smart to scan it), then there could be a few other issues. If that first set of MIL Elims you purchased turns out to be faulty, you need to exchange them...

You said you already tried the battery reset. Didn't work. Are there any exhaust leaks? This could also cause your check engine light to come on. It's wise to retighten the bolts after you install the new midpipe. How about the front O2 sensors? Any damage during the install? Or how about the rear O2 sensors - any damage? Dropping the O2 sensors, smearing a little bit of anti-seize/grease/oil could even prevent these sensors from working properly.
There is a very comprehensive troubleshooting FAQ over on the PonyExpressPerformance website:

http://www.ponyexpressperformance.com/MILtech.html

"I've installed PEP's MIL Eliminators on my car and they don't work. What gives?

Before we can give an educated answer, we need to know what DTC's (Diagnostic Trouble Codes) the Car is triggering. Either borrow a code scanner and have the codes pulled, or go to a shop that can scan and pull the DTC's for you. Email the actual code numbers to us, and we'll assist you in troubleshooting the install.

We ask this for a couple of reasons:

There are 100's of variables that could trigger your "check engine" or "service engine soon" light when running an offroad H or X pipe, or gutted stock cats. Let's break down some of the possible installation errors that will cause the MIL Eliminators not to properly keep your "check engine" or "SES" light off after the MIL Eliminators are installed.

Damaged Rear O2 sensor - MIL Eliminators need a healthy O2 sensor signal to work properly.
Incorrect Wiring in of the MIL Eliminator(s).
Rear O2 sensor(s) not properly torqued to spec. in exhaust pipe.
Rear O2 sensor connector not properly plugged in to wiring harness.
Exhaust Leak at the front flange between exhaust manifold or header and offroad pipe.
Front O2 sensor(s) damaged during swap from stock catted exhaust pipe to offroad pipe.
Front O2 sensor(s) not properly torqued to spec. in exhaust pipe.
Front O2 sensor connector not properly plugged into wiring harness.
Was the battery unhooked to reset the PCM (Powertrain Control Module or Computer) before the installation began?
As the installer can see, we have to narrow down the above variables and pinpoint the specific issue before a judgement can be made on whether or not the MIL Eliminators are truly faulty and need to be warrantied. This is precisely why we ask each customer with issues to scan or have scanned the trouble codes before we can make an educated decision on whether or not to warranty the product. 99.99 percent of MIL Eliminator install concerns are due to other variables besides the MIL Eliminators themselves, so pull the codes and write down the actual code numbers before emailing or contacting us for assistance or warranty.

Without the DTC's, we can't be of much help, and won't warranty the product unless we know for sure the MIL Eliminators are at fault. The DTC's will help us make that educated decision. Pull the codes and help us help you."

 

[blubullitt]

I used to have plug and play mils they worked fine for me. Like someone else said I had the check engine light come on twice but because of a exhaust leak. The only problem I had with the plug and play mills was the damn things fell off. I dont know if thats a common problem or not but it happened to me.