MPH Stage 2.5 Head/Bassani Header Install #'s

hotmustang331 said:
NICE :nice: . Man thats alot of power. Did steeda do all the installation? That had to cost a pretty penny..1850 for the heads, 1000+ for the head instal...and then the tune. Whoo eee thats some serious cash lol. Give us a write up after you can drive it.

Im sitting at 280ish right now. Im about to add some LTs so I look to be in the mid 290s at least. Ill probably never get that far with heads...well N/A anyways. My goal is 300RWHP N/A...I have a few more tricks so i think ill make it. Anyways congrats on the new HP #s...I wonder where they pulled the extra power from? Makes you wonder how Ken B. got 360+RWHP N/A huh lol. Those 2.5 heads flow ALOT, like 230 right?


are you running pully's with your electric water pump? or is their a dead pulley attached to the pump?
 
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Man what really sucks is that if those mods were on my LS1 (the GTO), that would net an extra 60-80whp or so horse with a tune where as heads and longtubes only netting you about 30 whp on a stang.

This is one of the reasons I see it hard to spend the money on these 2v heads and LTs. I just can't bring myself to do it. :notnice:

Although I guess if you are trying to get the most out of your N/A then by all means spend the money on them. :flag:
 
crazynorwegian said:
those are some sweet #'s. I'm hoping to get about that with my setup. I dont have headers, or all the bolt ons you have, but I'll be running stage 2 n/a cams, and I'll have a little bit higher compression with my npi motor. btw are you still running stock injectors?
You'll have to let me know how the drivability is. I'm considering a blower or new heads/cams down the line
 
Dark Knight GT said:
Alright, cool. A dyno sheet will help me to put things together in my mind. I'm looking to do a similar setup to you and I want the most power n/a I can get, but I don't want a setup that doesn't peak in power till past 6500rpms, cause I don't feel like upgrading the lower part of my motor to rev it that high. I think the most I'm gonna rev this thing to is 6500rpms.

You'll see on the dyno...the hp peaks at about 5700 and gradually starts to drop off at 6...the torque starts to peak at about 4k and starts to drop off about 5k. Still lost a little bit down low on torque but I have more down low than I had before...once it hits 3k it takes off!
 
hotmustang331 said:
NICE :nice: . Man thats alot of power. Did steeda do all the installation? That had to cost a pretty penny..1850 for the heads, 1000+ for the head instal...and then the tune. Whoo eee thats some serious cash lol. Give us a write up after you can drive it.

Im sitting at 280ish right now. Im about to add some LTs so I look to be in the mid 290s at least. Ill probably never get that far with heads...well N/A anyways. My goal is 300RWHP N/A...I have a few more tricks so i think ill make it. Anyways congrats on the new HP #s...I wonder where they pulled the extra power from? Makes you wonder how Ken B. got 360+RWHP N/A huh lol. Those 2.5 heads flow ALOT, like 230 right?


I believe the flow numbers are 235/202 and Steeda did do all the installation.
 
Well mainly because our 2V heads only flow 230ish....aftermarket heads for the LS1s can flow 300ish. A 4V is about equal to the LS1s. Head/cam 4Vs can make 400RWHP, and thats with 281CID. The 2V catsings just suck...you cant do much with them. In reality Lts and heads wouldnt net you much more. Lts gain 15ish on your car (bout even with the 2Vs), heads will give you 20ish. Remember you would still have your stock cams with your heads since all he added was heads...already had the cams. Now a LT/H/C combo would gain around 60+RWHP. If he pulled the LTs/ heads and cams...he would put down 250RWHP. By my math thats 60RWHP. Like said, the LS1s have better head and cam options with .600inch lift cams....ours are .550.


to DROPTOP, im running the stock pullys with just the electric WP (dynoed with STOCK waterpump...thats why torque was low too)...it has a freewheeling pully about the same size as stock. I wouldnt recommend it for a DD as you never know when it will go lol. Im putting the stock WP back on durring the winter, and will put the electric WP back on in the spring. i hate having to worry lol. I bet I could squeeze a few more out of it with UDs, but they said there is no gaurentee the belt will fit...I may just splurge though now that I think about it...help me hit my 300RWHP goal. thanks man, you just got me thinking....and that way I wouldnt loose all the power this winter when I pull the EWP.
 
LOL, I may sound contradictory lol about the flow #s. 235 is ALOT for 2vs....but is not alot when compared to aftermarket heads for LS1s and the 5.0s....mainly in the grand scheme of things. But 235 is about as good as it gets for street 2V heads. :nice:
 
hotmustang331 said:
Well mainly because our 2V heads only flow 230ish....aftermarket heads for the LS1s can flow 300ish. A 4V is about equal to the LS1s. Head/cam 4Vs can make 400RWHP, and thats with 281CID. The 2V catsings just suck...you cant do much with them. In reality Lts and heads wouldnt net you much more. Lts gain 15ish on your car (bout even with the 2Vs), heads will give you 20ish. Remember you would still have your stock cams with your heads since all he added was heads...already had the cams. Now a LT/H/C combo would gain around 60+RWHP. If he pulled the LTs/ heads and cams...he would put down 250RWHP. By my math thats 60RWHP. Like said, the LS1s have better head and cam options with .600inch lift cams....ours are .550.


to DROPTOP, im running the stock pullys with just the electric WP (dynoed with STOCK waterpump...thats why torque was low too)...it has a freewheeling pully about the same size as stock. I wouldnt recommend it for a DD as you never know when it will go lol. Im putting the stock WP back on durring the winter, and will put the electric WP back on in the spring. i hate having to worry lol. I bet I could squeeze a few more out of it with UDs, but they said there is no gaurentee the belt will fit...I may just splurge though now that I think about it...help me hit my 300RWHP goal. thanks man, you just got me thinking....and that way I wouldnt loose all the power this winter when I pull the EWP.
you have the meziere water pump? I heard its good for everyday driving and is actually better then stock since it flows better.
 
BLKsteeda said:
You'll see on the dyno...the hp peaks at about 5700 and gradually starts to drop off at 6...the torque starts to peak at about 4k and starts to drop off about 5k. Still lost a little bit down low on torque but I have more down low than I had before...once it hits 3k it takes off!
That sounds perfect. :cheers:
 
Here's the Dyno Sheet from the install.

Dyno2.jpg
 

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Nice!...man I wish tim would give me my dyno sheet :nonono: . Iv been waiting for like 3 weeks now :rlaugh: . Im going to call again this next week.(i bet they lost it lol). Oh well, im going to do another dyno here locally after my LTs go on. Oh, and what RPM are you shifting at now?
 
hotmustang331 said:
Nice!...man I wish tim would give me my dyno sheet :nonono: . Iv been waiting for like 3 weeks now :rlaugh: . Im going to call again this next week.(i bet they lost it lol). Oh well, im going to do another dyno here locally after my LTs go on. Oh, and what RPM are you shifting at now?


I shift about 6...my power curve starts to drop off just after that so I'm really not making any more power. The car definitely has no problem hitting 6k at all
 
Yea, thats where I shift mine...sometimes Ill pull out 3rd to 6200...then when I hit 4th, the torque darn near pulls me off the road lol. 4th is about the best pulling gear now. BTW I took mine to 6400 the other day in 4th (125MPH) and you sould feel it loosing some power then....not alot but it was there. By the look of the dyno, 6K is the best. Oh and like the above poster asked, what injectors? i assume they are the stock 19s right?
 
Dark Knight GT said:
If he's running the stock 19's, then in that lies the problem as to why he's not making more power and is running lean.



I'm still running the 19's...Steeda said the 19's were flowing more than enough and there was no reason at all to upgrade to 24's. I asked if we needed to upgrade and they said they would let me know when they got it on the dyno.
 
droptopponynj said:
you have the meziere water pump? I heard its good for everyday driving and is actually better then stock since it flows better.

Yea thats the one...and so far its held up good. But its coming off for the winter so i can run it durring my breaks. Im not sure if I would recommend it for a 100% DDer, but its definatly a noticable HP gain. Im thinking of slapping on some UD pullys in conjunction to get ALL the power. :D
 
BLKsteeda said:
I'm still running the 19's...Steeda said the 19's were flowing more than enough and there was no reason at all to upgrade to 24's. I asked if we needed to upgrade and they said they would let me know when they got it on the dyno.
Thats interesting. Most of the guys I know making over 300rwhp are running either 24lb/hr or 30lb/hr injectors. Its good to see you're doing it with only the stock 19's.