Mustang II Torque Converter (and questions) 26 spline, 10.5 bolt pattern, 10" converter? Is that the ONLY converter that you can run?
Does anyone know where I can send my converter to have it rebuilt to stall at a higher RPM? I'd like 3000rpm stall without paying $400 for a TCI super streetfighter.
I'll bet there's a way to find out...:Track: Probably up to 350 err... maybe 400 if shot peened (talking stock, early rods here with 3/8" bolts) *sigh* If you're looking for a 26 spline 10.5 bolt pattern converter, they are EVERYWHERE. However, our MII specific 10" 9.25 (or whatever) bolt pattern converter IS a bit difficult to find in a higher stall. Several years ago I have a shop over in Portland, OR build one for me that stalled at 2800 for another rig I had. Costed me $250 at the time. Not sure if they are still in the biz or not. Will see if I can track them down.
Stock early rod bolts are 5/16". Common "upgrade" is 11/32 Chebby bolts. Use of 3/8 bolts in early rods is not recommended by most sources.
It will be revved to 7000rpm with cast rods. Is this safe or do I need to buy some forged I-beams off ebay for $180? Yes it's about time for a new title.
OEM SBF rods are forged, and I-beam. The only modern (well from the 50s-80s) V8 engines that had cast rods were Buicks, I believe.
Spend the money on stress-relieveing the beams, shotpeening, magnafluxing and GOOD bolts for the OE rods. You'll be fine.
I still havent freshened up the engine like I said I was going to. I've been too wrapped up in other things. Rather than upgrade more things in the engine (its got very low miles on it) I'm just going to improve it the best that I know how. This **** WILL get done, don't lose the faith. All I'm doing is gathering the parts I need first. -Installing a melling high volume oil pump w/ARP hardened shaft -Full MSD 6AL ignition system with pro billet distributor + new wires & plugs -ARP waveloc bolts for the connecting rods and oil pump. -Port match the heads to the intake -Swap to a 600CFM edelbrock or a holley 600cfm (its over-carbed) -Hedman headers I'm still not even sure the heads are '69 heads, I'd **** my shorts if they were boss heads. A friend is going to lend me his engine lift and once I'm done with the engine and engine bay we're going to sand down the body and get it fully prepped for a Maaco paint job. Ya, Maaco. My friend is certified in autobody and the car is starting to get some rust, so it should look pretty good once its done. I lost my 'how to build a small block ford' book, so I'll need someone to explain how to adjust the roller rockers. A feeler gauge is needed, but how do you adjust them? I just hope there are no surprises when I open this thing up. And I had no idea Ford put forged rods from the factory in all those years. You're sure about that, right? I'm fairly sure the guy said they were cast, they may not be stock.
Oops! I goofed.. Thanks for fixing that. I meant 11/32.. I guess that what you get when you're doing internet Big Block spec searching at the same time.
8 bolts for a BOSS 302? Mine have 6. So what size would the combustion chamber be? I think they are 1969 heads.
I've taken my stock 289 shortblock (cast pistons) to a touch over 7500 a few times and it stayed together. If anything, a good piston is where $ should be spent aswell as a Forged crank if you're gonna go 6500+ alot. Why does it need to go 7000+ rpms? You got a bunch of fuel pump eccentrics bolted end-to-end for a camshaft??? You'd know it of you has Boss heads. The valve covers would look like ones on a 351C and the exh manifolds wouldn't look anything like other SBF exh manifolds. Be careful with that Lokar cable. Since you'll be running headers, you'll have heat issues, and even with the stainless steel braid ones, that inner teflon lining can melt under the extreme heat if improplerly placed or not shielded. Also you'll probably have to run acessory brackets off the tranny pan or somewhere on the case to mount that end of the cable.... This Lokar cable may not work with the headers at all.... Has anyone else tried this cabe before on their II? I'm sure someone here canwalk you through rocker adjustment when you get to that point. However, we will NEED to know what year or at least how your rockers are secured to the heads you have (different years=different methods) and hopefully they are adjustable. Stock MII '75-78 V8s were NOT adjustable, but you said you thought you had '69 heads??
you need to get the casting # off the heads to be remotely accurate, and even then after I've cc'd a head I've found that it can be different that what the casting # calls for. The '69 heads are either 58cc or 63cc heads, and that actually goes for all '68-'75 heads. There is a '68 head that is 54cc. I think all the '68 heads have adjustable rockers, but post-'68 is kinda a hit and miss up to '73. --6 bolt just means they are 260-289-302-351W style heads
Wheres the casting number at? (i will look for it) I'm about to buy a holley double pumper based on previous advice from you guys, but it does not support a Ford kickdown cable. Just how important is it to have a kickdown hooked up, and can you explain its real pupose?
