Mustang Myths Dispelled

rd said:
I actually bought the spring from a salvage yard during a random trip with my brother in law


who the hell buys springs, bolts, nuts, or anything pocketsized like that from a junkyard? nevermind, maybe im just a clepto
 
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Bad92GT said:
BIGGEST MYTH EVER..

the K member.. is a black hole for your tools.. and bolts.. its magnetized and attracts your very expensive snap on ratchet and that hard to find bolt specially made to that part.. and eats it.. i've lost so many parts in that damn thing..

Then it's not a myth, it's a fact, right? LOL
 
Strype said:
That's how they sold the cars so cheap back then. Almost anyone could afford a mustang back then.

I agree about the header bar. My first 2 mustangs were verts. And the t-5 was a joke.

Air silencer? S T U P I D idea. :nonono:




MyBad70's just went out along with his battery yesterday because he like many of us is running an electric fan :lol:

What is the Myth on the Stock Air Silencer?
 
Those aren't really myths though...those are just things that piss guys off about Mustangs.

In my original post i meant myths as reference to mods people do because they read about everyone else doing them and think they will gain HP. These are things like the tornado fuel saver and fart cans.

To sum it all up, a Mustang myth is incorrect tech

Here's my list of myths for the Mustang


#1.) EGR spacer hoses. Everyone thinks bypassing these hoses will gain you HP. They seem to overlook the fact that the 200* coolant is cooling down the 400* EGR gases. Delete the EGR and it's a different story, but i laugh every time i look under the hood of a stone stock Mustang and see the EGR hoses spliced together

2.) When you put on control arms, you can ditch the quad shocks. My answer to that is NOT always. It's hit or miss. It depends on a lot of factors to who is to say if you will need them or not. A lot of people say they are a factory band-aid, but the truth still remains that they work. If you want to remove them for larger tires that's one thing, but if you can keep them in place, it's in your better interest to do so.

3.) Dogbone on rear can be removed after gearswap. Fact is this dogbone comes on every Mustang and is the same exact peice on ever car no matter if your car has 2.73's, 3.08's, 3.27's 3.55's or 3.73's from the factory. They are a dampener for driveshaft vibrations and should remain. There was a really good thread on the t-bird forums i'll see if i can dig up. If you are so concerned about 9 lbs go run around the block a couple times.

4.) TPS sensor. Some guys spend hours trying to set their TPS to some magical 0.97 number or whatever. Just set it somewhere in the 0.9-1.0 volt range and forget about it.

5.) ACT sensor under the seat tricks the EEC into thinking it's seeing cooler air. Honestly..if that made a difference we'd see Z06's with ACT sensors on the roof.

6.) World Class means it's a super strong T-5. Wrong. The World Class T-5 has come in every Mustang since 1985....4-banger or 5.0. All World Class refers to is the synchro style and bearing setup. World class has 3-peice synchros for 1-4 and tapered roller bearings while non-WC uses brass for all 5 gears and straight bearings. The only year a NON-WC T-5 was run in a Mustang was late 83 to 1984 i beleive. The t-5 that everyone thinks is called the World Class is really the 2.95 Z-spec T-5.


I'll edit and add as i think of more.

I know a lot of guys mentioned the silencer as a crappy idea by Ford, but you guys need to realize that EVERY car has an air silencer. There is a reason for it which is to quiet the car down in order to get it certified for noise regulations. If it costs 3HP to do so, well that's the trade-off you need to take. Also, i remember reading that only 1% of vehicle ownersmod their car to the extent you and I do. That means 99% of owners don't care if their car sounds like the world is coming to an end and they gained 2.4HP in the process. The world is full of people who use a car as basic transportation. You and I are a sever minority
 
KCoppola said:
my ashtray door works fine AND so does my map light.


Must be nice. When I bought my car, my ashtray door was laying behind the drivers seat, no actually ashtray, and I didn't realize I had a map light because it's never worked. :shrug:
 
jinx369 said:
Wait.... stock 5.0's aint fast ?!?!?! :eek:
In the case of my car when it was stock, no they arent lol The myth of the needing 24 lb inj to make 300 rwhp, is a sketchy thing at best. Yes you can get to 300 rwhp with 19 lbers but they are more then likely operating at full duty cycle and need to be upgraded with even a slight bump in power. 24 lbers on a car that doesnt have a h/c/i is ridiculous though and more then likely will make the car run like crap. A myth that I have to contribute is the notion that all exhaust installs are a simple 1 2 3 install. Yeah theoretically, they arent complex but everyone i have ever done in order to get the damn system to fit right has been a pain in the ass.
 
i have a 50% ash tray door rate, vert good hatch has been broken since i had it

the thing about the 1% thats mods the hell out of there cars is .99% of those guys start off with something that didn't start out in life as a 78 fairmont :rlaugh:
 
In theory the 19# injectors are good up to 245hp at 100% duty cycle. My car runs out of fuel at around 4500rpm, I can hear it ping and the engine starts to stutter, I have stock fuel pump and injectors and I think I'm at the 240hp range according to my MPH and weight...
 
Boss 351 said:
In theory the 19# injectors are good up to 245hp at 100% duty cycle. My car runs out of fuel at around 4500rpm, I can hear it ping and the engine starts to stutter, I have stock fuel pump and injectors and I think I'm at the 240hp range according to my MPH and weight...


I have my 19lbs on TFS h/c/i with a 255lph pump and AFPR, I bounce it off the rev limiter sometimes in first (burning out), never ran into a fuel cut.
 
Aliate X said:
I have my 19lbs on TFS h/c/i with a 255lph pump and AFPR, I bounce it off the rev limiter sometimes in first (burning out), never ran into a fuel cut.

I still have the stock ORIGINAL pump, it doesn't help much lol But I'm going with 24# injectors and a calibrated MAF for my '69 heads since I hope for at least 280hp flywheel HP. I'm even going with flow balanced injectors since my goal is as close to perfect combustion in each cylinder for the most HP with less parts :nice: Since you know we only have 2 oxygen sensors so the computer will only play with each bank (4 injectors) to fix the A/F ratio (so you can still end up with lean or rich cylinders), if all the injectors are working at the same flow rates, it will be easier to maintain a more consistant combustion.
 
Boss 351 said:
I still have the stock ORIGINAL pump, it doesn't help much lol But I'm going with 24# injectors and a calibrated MAF for my '69 heads since I hope for at least 280hp flywheel HP. I'm even going with flow balanced injectors since my goal is as close to perfect combustion in each cylinder for the most HP with less parts :nice: Since you know we only have 2 oxygen sensors so the computer will only play with each bank (4 injectors) to fix the A/F ratio (so you can still end up with lean or rich cylinders), if all the injectors are working at the same flow rates, it will be easier to maintain a more consistant combustion.


Just put in a bigger fuel pump and an AFPR.