Mustang5l5's Progress Thread - Archived Progress thread '08-'20.

Status
Not open for further replies.
Ok. Currently drying. Pic doesn't show true color as they look almost orange here. It's a darker red in person.

IMG_7650.JPG


Seal kit. Really a single piston seal and a boot. Simple

IMG_7652.JPG


Got myself a fuel rail pressure gusge. The cowl grill mounted one is coming off. Not really needed.
IMG_7654.JPG
 
  • Agree
  • Like
Reactions: 1 users
  • Sponsors (?)


i went small

IMG_7671.JPG



However anyone see my problem? Do the bullitt calipers have ponys both running forward? Or do both calipers have the horse left to right? Need to find a pic.

IMG_7672.JPG


Coupe of coats of clearcoat going on the finished one.
IMG_7673.JPG
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 users
Ok. Quick caliper rebuild how-to. Probably took more time to write this than to actually rebuild them.

Step one is remove the old inside seals with a small pick. They are just square o rings

IMG_7704.JPG


Next you'll want to lather up the new inner seals with some synthetic brake caliper grease. Rub it all over and then insert seal in the groove. Do NOT use petroeloum based as it will cause the rubber to swell.

IMG_7706.JPG


Now, slide seal on bottom of caliper piston like a skirt
IMG_7713.JPG


Then Seat the bottom of the skirt into the small channel on the caliper around the bore
IMG_7714.JPG
 
Last edited:
Next slowly begun to feed the piston in with your thumbs while pulling the boot up the piston towards its channel
IMG_7716.JPG


Once you seat the boot fully in the channel
IMG_7710.JPG


Send it home
IMG_7717.JPG



And one caliper is done
IMG_7719.JPG
 
  • Winner
  • Like
  • Loved It!
Reactions: 7 users
$60 for the rotor and $90 to have it machined. I didn't have It done using my resources. A friend went out and found a shop, so that is average joe price.

But, $150 per rotor for 13" x 1.25" rotors is cheap. It's close but I am pretty sure it would work out ok

Of course, you need the C5/C6 style caliper to fit it

Credit for this goes to "pkstang" over on the corral for doing the legwork buying, measuring and machining a rotor to figure out what worked. I just slipped it on and tested it.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
I can see if you're operating at the thermal limit on the race track

I have no intention of running these. I never get my current rotors hot enough just doing street driving, hence why I run fancy drilled rotors just for looks mostly. My brakes are damn good as is, and my limitation at this point is tires.

The person I test fit the rotor for however will push the brakes to the limit of a track, which is why they are doing this setup. Really just some preliminary exploratory work considering haven't actually driven on the rotor just yet.

Weight difference is about 1 lb. 20.6lb fir the 1.25" rotor and 19.2lb for the standard 1.1" thk rotor.
 
Ok. Day off from work. Didn't work on stang but drove it around as I ran some errands.

My WOT hesitation is still there. It's not every single time but if I go WOT the engine bogs and slowly revs, and then it's like a switch is flipped and it goes.

Not fuel as I have 39-40 psi while this is occurring.

Ran codes. 11,11,44
Cylinder balance test OK


Dead spot in TPS maybe? Didn't have time to confirm this today.


Obligatory photo of the day
IMG_8093.JPG

IMG_8106.JPG
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
So I bought this bad Larry.

IMG_8250.JPG


Hear me out. I bought it to allow me to anchor a car seat in the back. I figure I can put an eye hook in those holes and all me to tether a car seat, which is what my car seat Nazi wife requested before I take the boys for a ride.

IMG_8249.JPG


Figure it would work perfect to fab something up here.


Should mount like this
IMG_8251.JPG


Of course, do rear strut tower braces actually do anything? Up for debate. If it stiffens the rear hatch area up a bit, added bonus. But that wasn't the intent of the purchase.

I have something much better coming in Friday.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 2 users
Tested the TPS. 0.85v at idle and 3.54 at WOT. Only a difference of 2.69 volts. Since WOT is 2.71 volts over idle reference voltage, I'm coming up short. Might makes sense why the problem is worse when car hot as wire resistance increases

Installed new Ford TPS. In fact, i installed a new throttle body. I installed the explorer 65mm I converted back this past winter along with the new TPS. Was too late to fire up the car and perform the base idle reset, so I'll try to do that tomorrow.

Why did I swap the TB? Well this is an explorer TB off a newer explorer that had the raised TPS mount. My modification to run a mustang TPS was not pretty and I didn't want to deal with it if it was part of the problem.

IMG_8269.JPG

IMG_8270.JPG



SO that TB is now off the car and my good 65MM TB is on then car.


But I'll s base idle and check TPS range tomorrow and drive it a bit. I don't want to swap regulator until I'm sure the problem isn't the TPS
 
Last edited:
Status
Not open for further replies.