Mustang5l5's Progress Thread - Archived Progress thread '08-'20.

[Mustang5L5]

Removed the coil over to start relocating the brake line mounting bracket. Didn't have a good sharp bit so I had to stop.

Assembled the other side for now. Gonna be some time before I install it (car too close to garage wall and needs to move) so is easier to move around this way.

Compared to the old blown out Tokico. Going to hang onto this for now. When it's time to measure bumpsteer, I can toss this strut in vs taking my c/o apart to pull the spring out.

Found a tow-hook on eBay that I'll mount to my rear bar for the tether location. Just need to get some hardware

But now with a functional rear seat and seatbelts and a tether spot, I can take my boys for rides this coming summer.

And before Karthief says it...yes I know that's not where the panhard bar goes

 

[Mustang5L5]

Finished one side. Everything torqued down to make the car driveable so I can move it. Nothing is set in terms of specs. I just bolted things down and matched the ride height of the opposite side for now.

Plenty of clearance to the sn95 17x8 wheel. About 1/2" at the tightest spot.

Hardest part of the install was the brake line. I relocated it fine, but the issue is not at full left lock, the brake hose rubs on the k member. I split a piece of rubber fuel line and zip tied it around the line for now, but I don't like this. Unsure if the answer is a new set of SS lines. They just don't seem to like the bend. Gotta think about this.

Other than that, piece of cake.

Next up, install the strut tower brace. I would have done it first but if you run the oem Camber plates, you need to trim a piece off. Now that I no longer gave the oem plate, no need to trim and I can proceed.

 

[Mustang5L5]

what type of grease did you use to assemble to co's? I have the mm co kit still in the box...might dive into it and install it this week..maybe lol some shop I inquired to install them quoted me 1500 w/alignment. I figure it can't be that hard.

$1500 to install? I don't see where that money is going to. They take maybe 2 hours per side and 10 mins to assemble the coil over.

I used this grease. The install directions just specify moly infused, so I had this on the shelf.

Really you just need a tiny dab for the bearing and o rings

The trickiest part of the install is relocating the brake line. Everything else is easy. The direction provided are pretty good and well detailed. It's been a fun project so far

 

[Mustang5L5]

Started tackling the STB.

Not as fun of a job. Very tight in the bay, plus I had to remove the vacuum tree and starter solenoid.

Instructions say to bolt to the pinch weld first, and then drill the towers. Well with the two pincweld bolts in place, I have a 1/4" gap on the drivers side. I'll need to remove the one on the drivers side, bolt it to the tower, and then perhaps drill the pinch weld hole to compensate.

Then I need to redo the solenoid wiring so it all fits.

Fun times

 

[Mustang5L5]

Well, it's on. Not a big deal once I had the right sequence of sharp drill bits. I like how it looks.

Had to redo my solenoid to fit the wiring in properly, and found my pos cable to the battery was a little suspect so I'll get a new one.

Was going to trim my starter relay cover but I have the original emissions label on it. Was going to peel it off but realized it would leave a mess...so I'll grab a reproduction to cut up.

Also discovered my spacer stack on the strut may be a bit too high. Will need to readjust

 

[Mustang5L5]

For you @Noobz347. Guess I got sick of looking at the cig burns as well.

$20 for this. What's silly is the look is growing on me. I haven't gotten around to getting new centers made yet. Was going to wait a bit

Gonna go toss it in the wash

 

[Mustang5L5]

I wasn't going to comment on the banana. It looks broken.

My 14 month old eats bananas like crazy...but not the ends...just the middle. So I gotta break it up and show him the ends.

Washed the cover...nasty

 

[Mustang5L5]

FYI Ford still sells the pos and neg battery terminals.

POS: Motorcraft WC-8751
NEG : Motorcraft WC-8699

Now made by a company called Julian Elevtric

 

[Mustang5L5]

you wouldnt happen to have the part numbers for those battery terminals? also, what did you pay for them?

Positive

Negative

Got them off rockauto. Was $42.80 shipped with the usual 5% off discount.

Going to get a new starter and cable but didn't have the part numbers yet so haven't ordered. Going to the 91+ mini starter

 

[Mustang5L5]

Couple minor things tonight. Cleaned my inner fender liners and painted them with SEM trim black

Messed around with the front brake line a tad to ensure I had enough clearance so it won't rub. I think I have the proper spot now. Also reclocked the line slightly to relieve tension. Just need to install the fender liner and onto the final corner!

Also, i replaced the drivers side hub a while back but the pass side is vintage 1994/1995. Ordered up s new hub

 

[Mustang5L5]

Also, @Noobz347 you can sleep soundly tonight.

And now

 

[Mustang5L5]

you happen to know anyway to fix/repair them? .

I'd probably try to fix them with an epoxy thatr works well with plastic and a reinforcing mesh applied to the backside. I'd clean/sand the area on the backside up really well and then epoxy and mesh it up. The key is holding it still and in position until it has a chance to harden.

I don't know off hand of which is the best expoy to use with the plastic though. I'd probably try something like this

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Loctite-0-85-fl-oz-Plastic-Epoxy-1360788/100371824

http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...0001&campid=5335821607&icep_item=221392655054

 

[BlakeusMaximus]

We use a plastic welder here at our body shop for broken tabs on fender liners, that would be your way to go depending on how bad it is. Run it by a reputable body shop and see what they think. You could go with mikes suggestion too, but it would be more brittle.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Wrapped up the coil over on the drivers side and got the car on the ground again. Double checked everything, adjusted the brake line and installed the liner.

A little disappointed in the ride height up front. This is full down. It's only abou 1/2" lower than the Mach spring on the other side. I kinda wanted full down to be where the tire and fender are at the same level, and then I adjust up from there. This is a 250lb 12" spring. If I step up to a 275 or 300 at some point, I'll get 10" springs

With the rear in the middle of its adjustment range and the front full down, I have an even stance with the rear maybe 1/8" higher. I may have to go full max height in the rear once I get in and start setting ride height. My rear 255/45/17s are taller, so really need to wait til I get the 01 cobra wheels back on to set height. If it's still not to my liking I'll likely change the h&r super sports out for a different h&r spring (rear rates are pretty much the same)

I'll need to let it settle and drive around the block first. Oh...neeed to swap the pass side spring out. Might actually lower the front a bit more and then I can at least lift the front.

Just one more corner to do...then panhard bar time

 

[bird_dog0347]

Nice, but I wouldn't worry about trying to get ride height the same until both ends have the same setup.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Wrapped up the engine bay. New wiring installed. Need to wait for a dry day to flip the car around in the garage and install the starter and other coil over. Right now it's pretty raw outside

 

[Mustang5L5]

$23.50 and 2-days later this heavy box shows up at my door. Typical yellow Chinese packing tape and all.

Um, there's now directions on how to actually assemble the thing, but I'll figure it out.

I have to wonder what they actually made on this item for profit. It shipped CA to MA by FedEx air and got here in 2-days...and this box weighs 12 pounds.

Edit. Something like this. I'll prob modify some of the hardware before I use it to be a bit more sturdy

 

[Mustang5L5]

I haven't actually checked fit of the rear tires yet. Something i'll get to eventually. Right now I have 235's on those cobra wheels but need to see how the 255's fit with the ride height I go with as well as with the PHB. The PHB changes the roll center so the wheel tends to arc into the well more than without the PHB.

I always thought he expensive eastwood tool was the only option for the fender roller but looks like china is making copies. Tools a bit rough and the powdercoating is....minimal, but it looks like as long as it doesn't break it should do the job. Just need to grab a heat gun from work.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Got home early from work and pulled the car out of garage. Sneak peak of stance....pending finishing that last corner.

Also first shot of Recaros in sunlight. Well...single Recaro. I haven't put the drivers seat in since redoing the bottom. I've since removed the pass side to finish installing the side skirt and trim.

Got a package today. Even though I redid all my battery connections, I'm going to change out the starter to be proactive with my slow crank when hot issue. Rather do it now when I have easy access due to pass side suspension being removed

 

[02 281 GT]

The Recaro looks right at home in there.