My 1970 Mustang project - Frame/Floorpan/Subframes.

Discussion in 'Classic Mustang Specific Tech' started by BlackGMC, Feb 19, 2007.


  1. BlackGMC

    BlackGMC New Member

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    Thanks, they are boxed with 18 gauge sheet metal, yeah it is a lot of work, but I enjoy making stuff. I think your idea will work well, something different is always good. I have been thinking about how to build the seat pans for weeks now, but after many drawing and measuring I think I have figured out what I want to do. Hopefully I will finish up these braces so I can actually build the seat pan frame work.
    #61
  2. Iamdiffrnt

    Iamdiffrnt Member

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    Looking good!
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  3. BlackGMC

    BlackGMC New Member

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    Thanks, from the look of your avatar you don't have much of the orginal car left. Looks like you have a lot of work ahead of you. Do you have a thread going on the progress?
    #63
  4. Iamdiffrnt

    Iamdiffrnt Member

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    Nope, it's been a work in stagnation for the last 15 years. Finally getting back to work on it though. That pic is what it looked like when I sent it off to the body shop. The cowl and floor were already done by the time i realized how bad the back end was. Hope to have it back on the road by the end of summer.
    #64
  5. okibono

    okibono New Member

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    Great work man...we are doing something very similar to our Maverick..
    #65
  6. BlackGMC

    BlackGMC New Member

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    Thanks, got some pics of that or do you have thread. I love seeing pics of other peoples work, it helps give me ideas.
    #66
  7. BlackGMC

    BlackGMC New Member

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    I finished making all the subframe bracing and I got the passenger side all welded up. Good news everything is still all nice and level and square

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    #67
  8. okibono

    okibono New Member

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    I got some pics, but we are kinda going in the opposite direction. We did the cage, mini tubs first, and notch the frame rails first, and now we are gonna do the frame connectors, locate the rear, and move the springs inboard and then install them.
    #68
  9. BlackGMC

    BlackGMC New Member

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    Yep we are going it opposite directions, after I finish up the subframes and firewall bracing I plan to intall the cage and minitubs. Funny two different approaches with similar results.

    What kinda cage are you putting in, Full, six point, etc?? Are you installig actual tubs or just widening the factory tubs?
    #69
  10. BlackGMC

    BlackGMC New Member

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    I made some progress over the last few days. Hopefully I will start laying some sheetmetal this weekend. I still need to make one more brace, the one you see laying there not attached to anything towards the firewall. Its coming together. I still have a lot of grinding to do.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    #70
  11. 351w_swap

    351w_swap New Member

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    How do you plan to get the sheet into the car, or are you going to lay four sheets to do the job? I am going to put in a whole sheet but mine will have a single profile all the way to the firewall and I will cut out the front section and build a big transmission hump. I also have the whole firewall out and can slide it in from the front. By the way, I got my four link, sway bar, and panhard bar today so now its time to get them unpacked.
    #71
  12. BlackGMC

    BlackGMC New Member

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    Actuall I plan to do several small sheets(7-10). I am planning on making the hump with 4 sheets, connected them at each rib you see pictured. Then I plan on doing four sheet for the actual floor board, skipping the middle section, because I have not built the seat pan/risers yet. Then 1 for each toe board and the 1 for the entire firewall. Sorta like i did for the rear hump I already install. Bending the 18 gauge sheet metal in a hump form was a major pain in the butt. Installing it as one continous piece would be ideal but I bet it would be much harder to work with.

    Check out these links. This guy did an awesome job installing some custom floors!! See how he did multiple panels.

    http://www.iimuchfabrication.com/Floor/


    Congrats on the parts delivery!!! I can't wait to see how your rear end comes together, you may sway me to install a four link and rear frame rails, but I am still swaying with the leaf springs. BTW why did you decide to do a 4 link?
    #72
  13. 68FBJJZ109

    68FBJJZ109 Member

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    You should have plenty of room for a modern driveline and all the good with a custom floor.
    #73
  14. BlackGMC

    BlackGMC New Member

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    Perhaps, but what actually are the advantage of a 4-Link on a street car. The car will be taken to track occansionally and maybe on a road course (thats a big maybe). More than likely I will run leafs and someday upgrade to Heidts 4-link.
    #74
  15. 351w_swap

    351w_swap New Member

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    There really is not that much advantage on the street because there are speed limits anyways but a four link will help you hook better and let you get to the speed limit faster. If you havent noticed, there are few if any production cars with four links in them because a leaf spring suspension in the rear will provide all the performance you need, plus they are far cheaper. I decided to go with a four link because I was replacing everything for the rear suspension/rails anyways and wanted more performance. I am building a "street car" (barely, if at all legal") with far more performance than I will ever need/use on the street just because I can. I don't want to talk you into somthing you don't want to spend the money on but like I said I got my parts today and am thus far very happy. If you do go with a non mustang specific 4 link, I can not recommend autofabracecars.com enough for their service and speedy shipping, not to mention the best prices by 25 to 50 bucks a piece on everything I ordered over summit and jegs or anywhere else I found. You are doing a good job but welding that many pieces together in a car seems like far more work than I want to do. I think I will stick to the single pan design I had in mind before. Keep adding the pics, I check this thread everytime I see it is at the top of the list again.
    #75
  16. BlackGMC

    BlackGMC New Member

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    One thing I thought of today, is that i don't have any reliefs cut into the rear cross member for exhaust pipes. So I think I am going cut some of the rear crossmember out and make some ovals. By cutting some of the rear cross member it might lose a little strength so I think I am going to use some 3/16 round tubing and cut it in half and weld in some flat 3/16 plate then recess it into the cross member. Kinda like what is pictured below. I am planning on running 2 1/2 exhaust pipe so I think I am going to make the oval at least 3 3/4 inside diameter. What do you guys think?

    [​IMG]
    #76
  17. 351w_swap

    351w_swap New Member

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    If you are ever going to switch to a four link, you might as well put in side exit exhaust now because there will be absolutely no room for the exhaust later.
    #77
  18. BlackGMC

    BlackGMC New Member

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    :bang: :bang: Damnit, I guess I need to decide on that one......:bang: :bang:
    #78
  19. 351w_swap

    351w_swap New Member

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    I know the purpose of this build is to build a street car that can be taken to the track but the question here is: Are you a performance fanatic? If you are, chances are good that you will want to upgrade the rear suspension later, especially after you have experienced the heidts front end. There are two options here, you can run the exhaust to the sides and run the pipes through a nice little skirt on the rockers, or you can just build your back exit exhaust and put turn downs on it later right after the mufflers (which will have to be right before the rear crossmemeber). It is a big decision and I know it is hard but you have to do what will make you happy or you may resent your decision later. Good luck!!
    #79
  20. BlackGMC

    BlackGMC New Member

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    I don't know if you this far in your build, but with the 4 link your putting in can you still mount your mufflers in the factory locations?
    #80

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