My 1990 Notchback Build Thread

Discussion in '1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-' started by oatburner99, Jul 2, 2011.


  1. oatburner99

    oatburner99 Member

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    EDIT, realized I had not made a build thread, so here ya go
    The car is a 1990 LX 5.0 with a 5spd. It actually is a canadian model so everything is in kilometers.
    The car is a true 5.0 coupe also. It has 135,000 miles on it and was obviously babied most of it's life. When I got the car the only thing that had been done to it was a set of flowmaster 3 chamber mufflers and a set of FRPP shorty headers. Since I've had the car, I've put a short belt on, installed a offroad H-pipe,and a set of 2 Chamber flows. I've also installed a FRPP aluminum driveshaft, along with a Pro 5.0 short throwshifter. Not soon after that I picked up a complete 8.8 rear end with 3.55 gears installed in it. Well being the caroriginally had 2.73's, they had to go. So in when the 3.55's and oh my god what a difference. It totally woke the car up. I know some of you are going to ask why the hell does a LX coupe have a Gt front end on it. Well the previous owner aparently had a fender bender, and this is what was put on. I like it and like the fact that i Have fog lights for when it's crappy outside.

    So the bad. I blew the clutch up. So after some quick reactions. I was back on the road. Now the paint. Well the Texas sun has not been nice to this car. It has massive amounts of clear coat that is peeling. So that leaves me to painting the car here before to long.

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    Some goodies:
    Picked these up from Justin:
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    8.8 with 3.55 FRPP gears:
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    Picked these up, gonna get em cleaned up and roll on them for a little bit,
    till I get a set of 5 lug cobra's...well actually 2 sets... :)
    [​IMG]
  2. oatburner99

    oatburner99 Member

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    Got the big and lils on the coupe. Picked these up from SVO, spent HOURS and HOURS polishing these. Still have a long way to go, but they at least are sealed up for now. This wheel and tire combo totally changed the look, feel of the car. Really happy with them. Thanks JEFF!

    Here's what they looked like...PRE-POLISH
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    I apologize in advance for the dirty car....there was no way in hell I'm washing it in 30 degree weather with a 15 mph wind.
  3. oatburner99

    oatburner99 Member

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    well got rid of the big and littles to pay for new tires that are going on these:

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    These should show up Monday....

    Nitto NT555's
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  4. oatburner99

    oatburner99 Member

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    Got some more goodies today.....wife helped...LOL
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    Found a little monkey taking up residency:
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    Little bit mo meat
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    Got almost all the parts I need for my 5lug conversion:
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  5. oatburner99

    oatburner99 Member

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    Well I'm just a little bit closer.....here's something for ya'll to chew on.....wheel setup will be going on this weekend :p

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    Pics will be posted as soon as I get more :p
  6. oatburner99

    oatburner99 Member

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    Well got the wife to take pictures of the coupe after the 5 lug swap. She's not happy with the pictures at all, so we're going to try again tomorrow. Anyway here's the ones she took.
    Camera= Canon Rebel XTI
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    Car is going to paint shortly...and eibach's are in it's VERY near future...4x4 option was made more obvious after the wheels swap...
  7. oatburner99

    oatburner99 Member

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    Well this mod if finally done. Didn't take too many pictures. I read thread after thread about this mod. Some people said do it this way, other's said this way. This is how I did mine. Pretty straight foreward if you ask me.

    Dirty Engine Bay
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    As some of you have read you MIGHT have to notch out your alternator bracket. I had to on mine. Took a die grinder and dremel to grind mine down a bit. I borrow the pictures from another thread so you can see what you need to do:
    BEFORE
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    AFTER
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    The top bolt hole on the fox is threaded (3/8) if I remember correctly. With the 3g alternator, you can either put in a helicoil, or you can do what most people do and go get a 2in 3/8 bolt,lock washer and nut to bolt up the top of the alternator. The bottom mount retains the factory bolt
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    New 4gauge power wire going from the alternator to the start solenoid. Some threads were different than other's here. Some said put a waffle fuse, or a fusible link on your new hot wire going to the solenoid. Some said close to the alternator, some said close to the start solenoid. I chose to put it close to the alternator. Well after some looking around (2hrs) No-one around here had a fusible link. So I ended up putting a 140 Amp Circuit breaker in. 4gauge in, 4 gauge out. This way if something goes wrong and I blow a fuse I'm not paying $5 a fuse.

    New 4 gauge wire:
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    Circuit Breaker:
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    Spliced Stator wire:
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    Belt Clearence:
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    That's pretty much it. Only other problem that I ran into was the pulley that was on my stock Fox 75 amp alternator was not the same size that was on my 3g alternator.My belt that I had wasn't big enough. So I ended up just changing out the belt.

    This mod is leading up to this:
    Taurus Fan
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    Picked up thisNew Shifter knob, with a "modified shift handle" also.
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  8. oatburner99

    oatburner99 Member

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    Ok so after reading a RETARDED amount of threads all over the interwebs, I figured I'd tackle this mod.

    Installation of a Early 90's model 2 speed Taurus electric fan on my 90 Notchback.

    Parts:
    Taurus Fan:
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    Hayden Fan Controller:
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    75 Amp Relay :
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    40 Amp female fuse:
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    Radiator zip ties:
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    10ft of 8 gauge wire
    10ft of 12 gauge wire
    Butt splices
    Ring Terminals
    Zip Ties
    Electrical tape

    Ok so I picked up my taurus fan for 28 bucks at our local wrench a part. The weekend before I picked up my 3g alternator for 28 bucks also.
    Anyway, Here is my horrible wiring diagram, with my chicken scratch writing. Before I did anything, I wrote this down.
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    Had a few spots where I just couldn't figure out. The write ups that are on the net vary so much, that you don't know who is right/wrong blah blah blah. So after a call and
    long chat with a professional who doesn't do this for a living, finally got things ironed out. So first I did the wiring for the fan itself.
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    Installed my 40 amp fuse:
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    Installed my 75 amp Relay:
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    Grounded the relay:
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    Now that that's all installed, time to rip out the old stuff. Pulled out the mechanical fan/clutch/shroud and overflow bottle. Reinstalled the 4 water pump bolts back
    into the pulley.
    Like every other write up, most talked about using weather stripping. I went the same route. 3/8 x 1/2 roll of weather stripping. I'm going to redo
    mine. I think that I can do something better. But this will get me by for right now. The bottom of the fan fit's nicely into the bottom (factory) shroud
    clips. But leaves you scratching your head for securing the top. Some write up's had you flip the fan upside down, and trim this piece off and
    grind here. I didn't want to do that. So I mounted it the way it was stock. Went to the parts store and got some radiator pull through zip ties for the top
    install. Talk about a pain in the ass. I would strongly recommend that you pull your radiator support arms (that hold the radiator in place) off so you can
    lean the radiator and fan assembly forward so you can tighten up the retainers. So I installed the fan:
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    The picture above also show's where I mounted my controller. Figured I'd keep it there, that way I could adjust it if need be. Didn't really
    have any other place to put it. All in all it worked out pretty good.

    Fan installed:
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    For the overflow bottle, I still need to work on that. But for the time being I have two of the radiator pull through ties holding it on to the radiator. Hopefully
    I'll make something out of sheet metal that will support it on the bottom.

    The controller install was pretty self explanatory, I chose to only use the high speed side on the taurus fan. Flow's just fine and keep's my car @ 190 degree's with the
    a/c on max and it's 105 outside. Pay attention to color wire's and look really hard at the factory wiring and where you going to tap into. I ended up wiring the fan the wrong
    way and it was blowing air into the radiator instead of pulling. I missed the iddy biddy red strip on the wire. I tried to shrink wrap all my connections, some of them I just didn't
    have the right size, so I made due with what I had. One note, as far as how to wire up the controller's 12v constant hot, and 12v "KEY ON" I didn't want my fan to run after I have
    shut the car off. Things happen and mechanical/electrical parts can crap out. So I wired my controller's 12v constant hot and 12v "KEY ON" hot together to a 12v "KEY ON" source.
    Which ended up being the PURGE SOLENOID connector. Both wire's are black so your going to have to figure out which wire is hot and which is ground.

    Picture of purge solenoid (borrowed from another forum) which is located on the passenger side below the airbox, and inboard of the frame rail. you can't miss it.
    [​IMG]

    The rest is a piece of cake. hope this helps, like I said there are SOOOOOO many write up's out there, and it can get kinda overwhelming on which one to do.
    Any questions/suggestions lemme know. This is a rough install. I want to dress the wiring up better, seal the shroud on the radiator better....so by no means is
    this completely done, but then again when is our mustang projects EVER done! ;D
    ttopstang likes this.
  9. oatburner99

    oatburner99 Member

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    Little update

    Thanks to some good buddies, (ProjectResto+SSPwanbe) they picked up a 70 mm 93 Cobra MAF for me. Best part was it was only 15$!
    Swapped in my 55mm MAF meter, It's working out really good :)
    I'm using my buds pics, same housing, so you get the idea. Compared to the stock one visually. My god...what a choke point.

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    Here's a pic of the original:
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    Throttle response improvement was really prominent. Not bad if you ask me.
  10. 1993SSP

    1993SSP Founding Member

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    Ummmmmmmm, nice work



    Ditch the GT front end, I'm not digging it :mad:
  11. jgarrard

    jgarrard Member

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    Agreed with above post....No fog light is worth having if thats the way you have to do it.
  12. 90fox306

    90fox306 New Member

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    nice notch, even with the GT bumper cover. Really nice car!!!
  13. Celeb

    Celeb SuperMod Super Mod

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    Nice car but +1 for dumping the GT nose.
  14. tannerc91gt

    tannerc91gt More durable than coconuts and twice as fast

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    I dont mind the GT nose at all :shrug:
    Good lookin ride either way
  15. Boosted92LX

    Boosted92LX Mustang Master

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    I liked the garage decor. HOOK EM HORNS!!!!!
  16. 90stang5speed

    90stang5speed Member

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    nice car & I really like the GT bumper on an LX. I have a stalker front with plans for a GT or cobra rear. No side skirts though. good luck with your build.
  17. oatburner99

    oatburner99 Member

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    just so you don't blow a gasket. A LX front clip has been found and will be installed on the car when it goes to paint.....so slow your roll LOL :rlaugh:
  18. oatburner99

    oatburner99 Member

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  19. mob

    mob the guy who hits on his mom

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    Wow man that thing makes some good power for the mods it has. Those wheels are sexy, but I would say definitely ditch the GT bumper before paint.
  20. Mustang5L5

    Mustang5L5 Car used in adult film "Highway Gangbang-InDaButt" SN Certified Technician Founding Member

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    Nice wheels. I've got the same ones, but mine have been sitting in my spare bedroom for almost 3 years....still haven't put them on yet. :(

    But at least seeing them on a black car might motivate me.


    The center caps for those wheels are hard to find. They are not the same as the bullitt wheels, they are a bit flatter even though they carry the same part number. I've yet to see a set that fits...the bullitt ones stick out 1/4"

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