My 1990 Notchback Build Thread

Discussion in '1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-' started by oatburner99, Jul 2, 2011.


  1. oatburner99

    oatburner99 Member

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    Well I finally got my garage cleaned up and organized the way I want it...you don't realize how much crap you collect until you pull everything out and start organizing....sweet jesus....felt like a hoarder like on the t.v show LOL

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    Even got the hotwheels organized:
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    With it starting to act like spring here in Central Texas, severe thunderstorms are already making their presence know. Getting the garage cleaned out, now is going to allow mama's FX4 F1fiddy to share a stall with the coupe. Excuse the nastyness on the coupe....it rained :p

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    #181
  2. NIKwoaC

    NIKwoaC 中國製造

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    Nice garage! I believe that every car guy should have a neon lit wall clock... It's like a beacon of hot rodding activity haha.
     
    #182
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  3. oatburner99

    oatburner99 Member

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    Gentleman....

    Need some guidance here....getting a vibration still...it was just 5th before...now however it is noticable in 3rd-5th. Here's the problem though.

    It vibrates when accelerating (just normal acceleration)
    It vibrates when coasting (taking my foot off the accelerator pedal)
    It DOES NOT vibrate under trailing throttle (maintaining speed)

    I also get a clunk when changing gears but it's when I am letting the clutch OUT to engage another gear. It does that in 1-4.
    I have NO GEAR WHINE

    Just to recap what I've done:

    Changed ujoints............didn't help
    Swapped driveshafts......didn't help
    Rear end (gears,crush sleeves bearings and preload all within spec)
    rotated tires, checked air pressure (which wouldn't explain the clunk anyway)
    I'm still thinking it's in the transmission....either a bearing is going (output and 5th gear cluster)
    Any other idea's?

    So I started looking at my torque boxes. I haven't pulled the back seat out yet to look from the top. I jacked the car up and started looking at the lowers...found some cancer, but it's all still solid (tapped around with a tapered punch) I'm wondering if maybe I have a torn torque box? The rear end has prothane upper diff bushings. Tubular control arms also have prothanes. Only a year old. I took some pictures...wondering if anyone see's anything that maybe I'm missing other than the surface cancer...

    Driver's side:
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    Passenger Side:
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    Am I looking in the wrong area's? Where do they usually crack? Keep in mind I still need to look up top under the back seat. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!

    Well the upper area looks good....

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    However the lower's ......SUM *****:
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    Got these babies on the way :
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    #183
  4. Illuminator

    Illuminator Active Member

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    I can't locate my post but noticed a bunch of weld areas similar to I saw in a couple of your pix... is that left over from factory? I was having bad vibrations as well, they have dimenished somewhat after a new trans mount, but still there at high rpm's I am leaning toward trans issues in tailshaft or clutch in my case. I know the tailshafts can't take too much w/o some kind of damage, and I definately punish mine.....
     
    #184
  5. oatburner99

    oatburner99 Member

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    I've already replaced the trans mount as well. It very well could be in the trans (my case) but I'd rather do the cheap fixes first than spend $700 on a rebuilt, or$225 on a rebuild kit, and it doesn't fix it. I left the seats out of my car for the drive this morning. It's amazing how much seats dampen and make noises almost NON-existent. Definitely hear the clunking with it all out, and I can feel the floor pan move when shifting. So my torque boxes are smoked.
     
    #185
  6. Gearbanger 101

    Gearbanger 101 Straight Outta Locash Super Mod

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    Get underneath and put some up and down pressure on your driveshaft at the transmission end. If the yolk moves around in the trans, you might need a new tailstock bushing. The good news, it's about a $6 part. The bad news...the trans has to come out and come apart to get to it.
     
    #186
  7. oatburner99

    oatburner99 Member

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    This was already covered....you will ALWAYS have play at the tailshaft......it has to in order to compensate for suspension changes while driving. But yes excessive play would be a cause for vibration....however I don't have any excessive radial or axial play....not just my opinion but also verified by our local speed shop.
     
    #187
  8. oatburner99

    oatburner99 Member

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    So the UPS truck showed up yesterday....and I received a nice surprise!

    I had purchased the Wild Rides Battle boxes (just the lowers) for $50 with free shipping.
    Well I opened up the box and to my surprise:
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    They sent me the whole dang thing. Either someone screwed up and I got lucky.....or someone screwed up and I got lucky LOL....

    Rewind to Thursday morning. I get up, do my normal before work routine. Fired the coupe up, let it warm up and head to work. I drive for about 10 min and stop at 7-eleven to get some coffee. I shut the car off, go get my coffee. Come back out and go to start the car and I get a couple of turn over's, and then the dreaded click click click. I've heard that when you put long tubes in, it drastically shortens the stock style starter....well I think that is what has happened. So I FINALLY after sitting for 20 min (cool down) I was able to get it fired back up. Drove up to work. Car sat for 6 hours.....fired right up and I drove home. Well the car was in the garage, and my two little ones like riding their bikes, playing in the garage, so I decided to move the car out of the way. So I did...around an hour later the better half decides she wants to go to dinner, I go to pull the car back in ...and once again...NOTHING....click click click....WTF!!!!So I jump it with mama's truck. got it fired...started a little investigating...battery 12.65 volts....alternator putting out 14.02 volts when running....hmmmmmm. So I take the car down to Vato Zone and leave it running get them just to clarify what I already know...battery checks out ok, and the alternator is in fact charging....well made the mistake of shutting the car off to check the battery (which was a mistake) ended up killing the car....oh and did I mention it's 9:00 and they are fixing to close....not a great part of town.....can't push start it because the way the car was parked....just a ****ty all around position.....so this happened:
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    Got her home and put in the garage....and now I'm doing this:
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    Going to a mini starter (92-95 style Mustang starter) gear reduction and all.
    When I pulled my old beat to **** stock one out, you could smell it was burnt.
    So that's my project for today....
     
    #188
  9. 88LX5.Oh

    88LX5.Oh Advanced Member

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    I'm doing the same, going to that style starter. I ran the wires and the little signal wire for the solenoid, when connected, just makes my starter click. Projects -_-
     
    #189
  10. oatburner99

    oatburner99 Member

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    The wire that goes from the original starter to the start solenoid (4 gauge) needs to be moved to the OTHER post of the solenoid. So you are making that wire HOT all the time. The smaller (16 gauge or smaller) goes from the new starter to the post that the above mentioned 4 gauge wire was previously installed. Because the new style starters have a solenoid already part of the assembly you basically are BYPASSING the fender mounted start solenoid and allowing the one that is part of the new starter to take over the duties. Hope this helps you out sir.
     
    #190
  11. 88LX5.Oh

    88LX5.Oh Advanced Member

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    I got it going shortly after I made my original post. I got it to work using both solenoids lol. I ran the 4 gauge wire just like factory and the little 16 gauge one i ran off the tiny pin on the fenderwell solenoid. In the morning I'm gonna wire it up like you said because it sounds like a lot better method.
     
    #191
  12. 88LX5.Oh

    88LX5.Oh Advanced Member

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    Basically my method was one solenoid powering up another solenoid :lol:
     
    #192
  13. 02 281 GT

    02 281 GT Active Member

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    For what it's worth, I had that exact problem in two different Fords with remote solenoids. In both cases, the problem ended up being a corroded starter cable that wasn't carrying enough current to the starter. But it probably won't make a difference for you since you're probably going to be running all new cable and bypassing the remote solenoid anyway. :nice:
     
    #193
  14. oatburner99

    oatburner99 Member

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    Short clip of my ****box:

     
    #194
  15. oatburner99

    oatburner99 Member

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    Torque box upgrade day/night!!
    Just to those who are thinking about doing this....the lowers are a piece of cake. As long as you remember that you can lower and raise the diff in order to gain you clearance, for drilling your holes (for the uppers). The upper's are a pain in the ass...and I suggest taking breaks when you get to a point that creates a challenge...I was at the point of throwing tools.

    Zipped the tires off and got to it:
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    Torque box:
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    Removed lower control arm fwd mounting bolt (torque box reinforcement ties in with lower control arm)
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    Feeding the torque box reinforcment box inside the box:
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    Plate is in place. This is looking up.Control arm hardware"Snugged" down. The four holes in the box , get drilled through the bottom of the seat pan (back seat) and a plate is installed inside the car. Basically sandwiching the floor pan.
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    Two of the 4 holes drilled and snugged up:
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    Top plate. They want you to drill the holes from the bottom, however the actual torque box framing is in the way, So I drilled the two that I had access to, and then back drilled the other's. The top plates are location specific, so you shouldn't have a problem, once you locate the two.
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    Bottom view:
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    Wild rides recommends welding the top plate, so I wire wheel'd the surrounding perimeter of the plate in prep for the welding:
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    Installed:
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    Upper torque box....(pain in the ASS)Upper control arms removed
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    Interior plates:
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    Final install:
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    Few notes, make sure you have different size drills, in order to get in those hard to drill spots. I had both air, electric (battery) and corded drills, that accepted 1/2 drill bits. Make sure you get good decent drill bits. 3/8, 7/16 and 1/2. Have a lot of patience. Since driving the car, I've noticed it feels a lot "TIGHTER", it's not as squirrely when getting deep into the throttle. All in all, it was worth the cussing, screaming and of course...ice cold beer afterwards.
     
    #195
  16. oatburner99

    oatburner99 Member

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    Installed these Flo-fits today....have had them for over a year in my attic. Finally dragged them out and installed them:

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    #196
  17. oatburner99

    oatburner99 Member

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    Whelp....have a friendly score to settle between me and my good buddy and his SVO....guess I should blow the dust of these and get em mounted:

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    #197
  18. oatburner99

    oatburner99 Member

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    All Cleaned up :)
    mounted and balanced
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    #198
  19. oatburner99

    oatburner99 Member

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    Ok So it's been awhile since I've done an update, so here goes:

    So first my a/c hasn't worked...and being in Tejas...yeah that's bad juju....so started out thinking maybe it just needed a recharge....no such luck. Recharge AND a new compressor:
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    Oring was smoked:
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    @ SVOC headquarters:
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    So we recharged it, blew cold air....awesome I have FRIGGIN A/C...YAY!!!! not so fast....
    driving the car on the freeway with the a/c on max, engine temp started climbing....WTF.......oh man....I have a new water pump....electric fan that would cool hell....ok well it was the original OEM 23 y/o radiator....

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    #199
  20. oatburner99

    oatburner99 Member

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    So swapped out the radiator....to no avail....still the same problem. Car would sit and idle at the light fine, could run it for 40 min.....no problems....with the a/c on max. As soon as I started driving....cancel Christmas the temp would start climbing. So a good friend of mine mentioned to me that my deflector wasn't on the car, and that helps deflect air inbetween the radiator and evaporator. SO I fabbed my own....plastic OEM one kinda sucks:

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    after the install....BAM no problems. Fixed it like a champ.
     
    #200
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