My build log: 66 coupe, will be 4.6L DOHC

#21
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and here we have the initial test-fitting of the engine...obviously way more than 3 degrees...I ran into a problem here I had not anticipated...the sway bay prevents the front of the engine from going any lower...looks like I will have to get it modified somehow to drop the engine any further(and no, I dont want to run without a sway bar)

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also today I picked up a set of Fiero seats...obviously they need to be recovered...Mr Mike's to the rescue....with any luck when they are done they will look like this...
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not sure whose car this is though
 

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#26
Great thread! Thanks for the documentation. Very clean install!
I'm doing the same conversion but with a 93 Mark and the factory AOD. I'm using a Martz front clip. Wish I could weld like you- I had to hire it out.
I cut the side reservoir off my oil pan and brazed up the hole. Looks great but in retrospect, the capacity may be too small now. Guess I can section the bottom. Nice oil pan- lots of baffles and a very tite windage tray.
I looked for headers but had no luck. Pass side is pretty open but the steering shaft limits the drivers side. I was able to use Marauder exaust manifolds to clear the steering and they look like they'll flow pretty well. Looks like they were made for the car.
I'm using the stock intake and throttle body. I don't like the rear throttle body but do like the intake tubes. I figure I can work on the performance stuff once every thing else works.
I started my 65 FB with a 392 plan but once I got the 4cammer in the engine bay..... wow! It's worth the brain damage to get there, although I may have to choose my fights.
What are you doing for an FI wiring harness?
Thanks again for the post.
 
#27
the Marauder manifolds bolt up to the early heads? the reason I ask is because they usually list later 4valve headers under different part numbers....marauder manifolds would be perfect for me(at least for awhile...eventually it will be twin turbo and I will make my own manifolds)....I won be cutting off the resevoir...doesnt seem to interefere with anything...as far as the engine harness, I will be making it myself...the car will be run off of MegaSquirt, making a harness really isnt that hard(most MS kits come with a harness, but it needs to be trimmed and routed inventively) I have more updates coming tonight when I get a chance
 
#28
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well, on monday I sold my T5...for $300....on tuesday I drove down to Alabama and picked up this T45 for $300(basically a straight trade)....the owner claimed he got it from a guy down in FL and supposedly it has just 26k miles on it...I picked up the steeda shifter from the same guy for another $100(more because I needed a shifter for it than because I wanted a STS right then) also got a free 26k Cobra clutch in the deal....but sadly enough its an 8-bolt flywheel...which according to the sean hyland book the mark viii motor should have....well, sean hyland is wrong....the mark viii engine is a 6-bolt crank...meaning I have to scrounge for a GT flywheel rather than a cobra...I will be using the clutch itself however...also still need to pick up a pilot bearing, TOB, and clutch fork before i can bolt this stuff together and drop it in and start making engine and tranny mounts...delays delays(currently have a deal in the works that should get me the GT flywheel and a starter though)


p.s. I know the T45 is a pretty crappy tranny, but it will bolt up and work well as long as I dont abuse it...I decided against hacking up the T5 to make it work when a straight trade was fairly easy to accomplish....also got a free 35th anniversary shift knob and handle with it...evidently they are in demand? I think its kinda ironic I'll be driving around with that knob in a '66
 
#29
The Marauders fit fine. I think the different body on the newer Mustangs is the difference with the headers, as the 2V's don't interchange either.
Ports are about the same size as the stock exaust gaskets. I looked at some Cobra manifolds and they looked like wouldn't fit the drivers side. The late Mark left side should fit but the right is junk like the 93-95. I'll send you some pix but it will probably be a few days- somebody 'borrowed' my cameras and computer yesterday and I have to replace them.
Good move on the tranny- you were setting yourself for an awful lot of work adapting the T-5.
 
#30
well, I havet done my steering linkage yet so I should be able to route it differently...I can use as many joints as I need to clear whatever headers I decide to go with...presumably anyway, since I will be making my own linkage as well, rather than using a kit from someone(currently thats the plan, since I feel they charge too much for what is basically a straight shaft with a couple of u-joints)
 
#32
why isnt this thread in tech, it is awesome build!

that t45 is a much stouter trans than the t5, i've rebuilt both and the t45 has much larger internals. prepare to cut that crossmember to fit that trans in though, but with the size of your nads taking on this project that shouldn't be a problem.

Good luck on the build
 
#33
Nice pics and cool build

Thanks for sharing

If not addressed already, you will want to consider retro fitting in the 67-70 front torque boxes. after the shock tower removal on a 65-66 cp/fb, the only thing left holding the front subframe on the car is the bottom of the cowl. down tubes from the firewall to the front sub are also recommended
 
#34
I had read about needing to modify the trans tunnel to fit the T45...so while dissapointing, its not surprising, not a big deal either...since a T56 with a .050 6th may go in down the road anyway, might as well do it now....when I get the time anyway

as for the Mustang II front end, well first off, after cutting out the shock towers I really dont believe they added any real structural support except for triangulation with the export braces...or rather let me rephrase that to say that I dont see any way any real load could be tranferred through the sheetmetal behind the shock towers....anyway, that being said my plans are to run extra support from behind the fender on the firewall down to the front frame rail and add some support to design my own export brace setup...I just need to buy some tubing and a chop saw, that along with the trans tunnel are on my to-do list...been working on my daily driver the last few weeks though...as for the torque box retrofit...I would love some more information on that, have a link by any chance?

p.s. didnt put the thread in tech just because I wasnt really sure how much tech was really going to be in it...I never seem to take enough pictures(mainly because it takes time i could be using to work)
 
#35
Torque Boxes

Well unfortunately I didn't document this on mine.

It's as simple as trimming two edges and welding them in place. The angles are all the same but the area is just a little tighter.

BTW the American Designer version comes welded together. So you need to spot weld remove them when installing. Kinda silly. However the Dynacorn version comes in pieces and they add the big block gusset that that others don't address.

Jay
 
#36
wicked93gs, how is your build up of DOHC comin' along? i was planning of doing the same w/ my '66 coupe w/ engine and drivetrain out of '98 running cobra(daily driver).

what ifs kit did you get?

do you have to do any cuting on tranny tunnel in order to run t-45?

thank you,

daddyoth
 
#38
sorry, been offline for awhile guys, I have made some progress, to answer some questions, my progress is slow right now, but coming along, I have made the pasenger side motor mount backet(the thing took me 6 hours to make) the driver's side bracket I am currently working on, but its trickier with the steering linkage in the way of everything over there, currently I am using stock Mark VIII motor mounts(same mounts as a v8 4.6L cougar btw)I'll probably dissasemble them before I am done and replace the rubber with polyurethane....the transmission mount I will be making soon as well, once I think of a good way to do so....as for having to cut the tunnel....I dont think I will...right now I have 4 degrees of tilt without cutting anything...I believe if I cut the top of the stock transmission x-member(just notch out a 6" long part where it runs under the top of the tunnel) then I will be able to get 3 degrees without any more modifications, as for the kit I am using, its a Heidts kit

in other areas of the car...Monday I plan on starting my retrofit of the Fiero seats...looks like it will be pretty simple using the Fiero sliders which I will simply re-mount on some 3/16" plate steel and weld some studs to
 
#39
One other thing...while in the junkyard the other day I came across a few mark VIIIs...and noticd for the 1st time the passenger side exhaust manifold....which happens to be basically a log-style manifold....which interests me simply because its compact and I can use two of them and do some flipping to point them forward, cut off the collector size and re-weld the exit at the angle I need, also mount some turbo flanges on them, and voila! turbo manifolds for an investment of about $75(including flanges), log manifolds will also be able to clear the oil filter base/water pipe assembly, I figure since its going so slow right now i might as well make it even slower and do the turbo system at the same time....I'll start with a couple 14B mitsu turbos, which according to my calculations will flow well up until the mark VIII manifold begins to be a restriction ayway(around 6k RPM) getting 14Bs will keep it cheap until I'm ready to step up to a couple big 16gs or possily some 20gs(big 16gs most likely)
 
#40
hey guys, i recently own a 1968 mustang. im just finishing up with the restomod. however i was wondering what it would look like matte black. does anyone know of a place where i can find a picture of one to see if i like it or not? ive searched the web but cant find any... i would really appreciate the help. Thank You
 
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