Progress Thread My Kenne Bell Twin Screw'd Foxbody thread, (new addition to the family)

Meh. I built my cat back for pennies compared to buying. You can clamp it all together and take it somewhere to get welded up.

LRS sells the flow tubes, buy some mufflers and find some used tailpipes. Voila.
 
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I can probably cut the turn downs off of my dumped exhaust and connect some 2.5" LX tails to them. Until then I'll get by with the dumped exhaust with extra drone because the exhaust leak with the stock tails is even more unbearable but I'd like to drive the car in the mean time.
 
Removed my tails last night and installed my dumps and while the car sounds better I still have an exhaust leak. Not sure from what part of the exhaust system but it's more noticeable when I'm on the gas instead of at idle. I'm going to take it to an exhaust shop after work, I'm sure standing under it while it's on a lift will make it much easier to find the leak.

I used copper gasket maker for my headers and I won't do that again unless I have a helper. Trying to hold the long tube header steady while lining up the bolts and getting a couple of them started is a major PITA all by yourself. Next time I will use the Percy gaskets as @mikestang63 suggested.
 
The really difficult thing I'm dealing with is having to remove the engine to replace the oil pan gasket and VC gaskets, also pull trans to do the rear main seals then the "while i'm already here" bug hits you.
then you-
a) replace pilot bearing
b) replace clutch, flywheel & PP etc since Vortech may be going in so lets upgrade while I'm here
c) while oil pan is off I may as well upgrade to an ARP pump shaft
d) replace oil pump and pick up

wait, I already did all of this on my other engine and it's already all together and it's already has HP!! Why not just yank this leaky mofo and put in my other engine & trans?? I hate being in this position.


Do it. You can take your time putting this motor back together.
 
Removed my tails last night and installed my dumps and while the car sounds better I still have an exhaust leak. Not sure from what part of the exhaust system but it's more noticeable when I'm on the gas instead of at idle. I'm going to take it to an exhaust shop after work, I'm sure standing under it while it's on a lift will make it much easier to find the leak.

I used copper gasket maker for my headers and I won't do that again unless I have a helper. Trying to hold the long tube header steady while lining up the bolts and getting a couple of them started is a major PITA all by yourself. Next time I will use the Percy gaskets as @mikestang63 suggested.


I ike the Percy gaskets as you can reuse them over and over and they seal like a M fer. Pay for them once and be done with it.
 
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Car sounds great now. Took it to a muffler shop and they said my hangers were too long and preventing the ball sockets from lining up and sealing. They moved the hangers down to raise the pipes and all is good now! Hardly any drone with my flowmaster dumps, who'd guess that?

I may put my TB and 75mm proflow MAF on with a k&n drop in filter just for chits and giggles.
 
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How do you like it? Give us a review.

Joe

Didn't want to thread jack @hoopty5.0 with this stuff.

So far I like it but haven't done any tuning on a running and driving car. I've gone through all the setup and played with setting and so far it's easy to navigate and user friendly. I had some issues with my lap top which I just recently fixed and I will install the PiMP on my hatch soon and play with it while I'm still "close" to stock.

One thing is I'll say is that it's very easy to accidentally skip a step in the instructions. You really have to do as they say, read them front to back a few times and then try to follow along carefully as you get it all set up for the initial start up. I had to do it over a couple of times because I found I missed a setting or forgot to calibrate some sensors. It's all rookie mistakes.
 
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Man these cars are not for driving with steel toed boots! Feet are always getting hung up on each other when I have to brake and push in the clutch and I'm only a size 12. Pretty much limited to only wearing my Chuck Taylors and changing into my steel toes at work :shrug:

In other news some dip chit nearly t-boned my passenger side in a parking lot. It's very upsetting that somebody thinks they can just go around a blind turn without slowing down or stopping for cross traffic in a busy parking lot. Had he been a second slower slamming on his brakes I'd be getting a Salvage title on my hatch and arrested for giving out a beating :fuss:
 
Cleaned it up and cruised the kids to soccer practice. Installed new clear head lights along with water and oil gauges. I'm a little concerned with my water temp showing an occasional 200-204 degree temps when it's only upper 70's to mid 80's out.

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These Autometer short sweep electric water gauges tend to show temps higher than the stock ones for a few reasons. Example. I just installed one in my car and in town it barely gets above 180. I took it on the highway and it crept up to about 200-205 after about 10-15 minutes.. I'm going to check the following on mine.

  • Bad ground on the gauge or the ground wire- I am going to relocate my ground from the body inside the car to the frame or engine.
  • Sending unit is bad or not properly grounded- with teflon tape or paste it may not allow the unit to ground proper
  • Sending unit not in coolant but is reading the air pocket

The Auto Meter 100 to 250 degree, short sweep temperature gauge uses a specification of 1123 ohms of resistance to ground to = 100 degrees F, and 65 ohms of resistance to ground to = 250 degrees F. You may contact our Service Department for further specs.
 
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There is a Crystal Blue 4 eye notchback for sale at a used car lot near me and it looks pretty sweet from a distance as I drive by it. It's lowered with aftermarket wheels and a cowl hood. Looks real nice, must resist the temptation to stop and look at it!
 
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Getting tired of feeling like a death row inmate when I drive my car (gas chamber joke), so this is on the way to my front door......

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Mustang Flowmaster American Thunder Cat Back Exhaust System (85-93) 5.0

FLO-17213

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Well so much for wanting to purchase a coil over kit this week. Not going to fit with 17x9 wheels on 255's :nonono: Why the heck can't they make a staggered set of these 03' Cobra reps like they do with most other aftermarket wheels?? 8" front with 9/10" rears. 9" fronts has too many limitations on a fox IMO.
 
Well so much for wanting to purchase a coil over kit this week. Not going to fit with 17x9 wheels on 255's :nonono: Why the heck can't they make a staggered set of these 03' Cobra reps like they do with most other aftermarket wheels?? 8" front with 9/10" rears. 9" fronts has too many limitations on a fox IMO.
Have them narrowed?:shrug:
 
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Spokane, WA representing!! I know this is an AWD Mitsu but it's seriously impressive. This is the performance shop I found out about AFTER I got screwed over by Exhaust Solutions. These guys are very nice and take the time to talk to you. They love Mustangs too and have a couple 1k HP coyotes.

This is supposed to air soon on Street Outlaws which I enjoy watching.

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xMJQXELRsZk
 
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Well so much for wanting to purchase a coil over kit this week. Not going to fit with 17x9 wheels on 255's :nonono: Why the heck can't they make a staggered set of these 03' Cobra reps like they do with most other aftermarket wheels?? 8" front with 9/10" rears. 9" fronts has too many limitations on a fox IMO.
Should fit fine with a shorter spring (8" or so). More common on road race/autox/street car than a street/strip car though. i looked into the same dilemma earlier this summer, the only real benefit of the longer springs is it puts the adjuster nut lower on the c/o sleeve. Some will say the longer springs store more energy, but an inch of compression is an inch of compression as long as the spring doesn't bind.
 
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Haven't been doing much with the Mustang except driving it. I installed a new sunroof weather stripping and my Flowmaster American Thunder 2.5" exhaust which sounds and looks perfect. My hatch and door seals are FUBAR and I have new ones that I need to install. Probably won't be until December when the engine and trans comes out.