My New 1990 Mustang Gt

Discussion in '1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-' started by Prospect, Jan 29, 2014.

  1. Prospect

    Prospect Member

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    Long story short, I just picked this up, and I want to upgrade the heads/cam/intake immediately.

    Was told that there is a rebuilt 306 in there. Currently has:

    BBK headers
    Flowmaster full H pipe exhaust
    Cold Air intake
    Aftermarket oil pan
    MSD ditributor
    Optima Battery

    I'd like to put down around 305-315rwhp and it's sole purpose is weekend driving So I'm flirting with the idea of skipping the wait of trying to piece a kit together and going right into a Trick Flow top end kit.

    I'm looking to pull the trigger on an order today. But if someone has a better/cheaper idea, I'm all ears.



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  2. elarm1

    elarm1 Active Member

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    Id put my money on an entry level blower.... if it was me. But the Trick Flow is good stuff
     
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  3. GoldenEagle91

    GoldenEagle91 Member

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    Are you sure that you aren't currently putting that power down? I'd maybe pop in a more aggressive camshaft and do a tune. I think it might be cheaper and you may meet your horsepower wants/needs.
     
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  4. nothwoods

    nothwoods Member

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    Fellow 90 GT owner here, mine has the same hood too. Nice looking car, congrats!
     
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  5. Prospect

    Prospect Member

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    If I have 220 rwhp I'd be shocked.
     
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    f8tlfiveo likes this.
  6. Prospect

    Prospect Member

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    Thanks brother! I paid a few hundred more than I really wanted to, but the car is pretty unique around these parts.
     
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  7. madspeed

    madspeed Colonel Mustard
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    um, wheres the snow? :rolleyes:
     
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  8. Prospect

    Prospect Member

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    On the ground 5 days after these pics were taken. Bought the car 11 days ago.
     
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  9. A5literMan

    A5literMan Mustang Master

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    Nice looking! Stock heads? And 306 without a cam:confused:? It probably is just an overhauled/stock 302 not that it matters if you're planning on a topend kit. Depending on money I'd piece together my own kit and make a little more power than the tfs kit(usually they make around 290rwhp). But it is a good streetable combo and all inclusive.
     
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  10. Prospect

    Prospect Member

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    It may have an upgraded cam but I have no way of knowing. The motor runs very strong.
    What would you suggest besides the TFS kit?
     
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  11. A5literMan

    A5literMan Mustang Master

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    Depending on what pistons you have for either inline valves or tfs twisted valve angle I'd run either AFR 185cc heads or Tfs cnc 190-205cc heads. They are more expensive but make max power and are big enough to grow with any future mods(like blowers/turbos etc). I'd package that with either a Holley systeMax intake,tfs box r,or an edelbrock rpm. Then I'd add a custom grind hyd roller cam for max drivability and power production. But this route is a max effort(read costly & more powerful) build.

    The best budget build IMO is to look for some good used Alum heads with a used above mentioned intake and a custom cam. Whatever way you go get it dyno tuned. Obviously add all the supporting items like injectors,matching mas meter,fuel pump,exhaust,ignition,etc.
    If your car is a 306 you should be able to reach 300-325 rwhp with regular tfs 170 heads and a good cam. With the big heads,cam,intake you could/should make 330-360rwhp.
     
    #11
  12. jrichker

    jrichker StangNet's favorite TOOL
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    Far too many people put a dab of this and a dollop of that, and then wonder why the car doesn't run worth beans. Then they think off the shelf computer chips will fix their mismatched parts problem. It won't You have to have a plan for what kind of performance you want: Hot street. Street/Strip, Pure strip, Autocross or Road course. Each one requires a different strategy and a different set of components.. Mismatch the components and you’ll have a car that falls flat on its face when you demand performance.
    Everyone thinks HP! HP! HP! and thinks that peak HP is what they need. Peak HP is great for a drag strip car when it has the proper gears and tires to get the car up into the high RPM range where it develops that high peak HP near the finish line. On a street car, that strategy will have Honda Accords outrunning you, because you will never get the engine RPMs high enough without running over everything in your path.
    Here’ the strategy: Always remember that there are some tradeoffs in any engine combination. Most of us don’t have enough money to “have it all” as if it was possible by some masterful combination of parts and tuning.
    The following recommendations are for 5 Speed Manual transmission cars without NO2 or pressurized induction, stock short block.
    1.) Hot street: Broad flat torque curve, high velocity airflow in the intake and heads for best throttle response. Gears suitable for reasonable gas mileage and long road trips without excessive engine RPMs. Stand on the gas pedal from a rolling start to squeeze into that gap in traffic in front of you, and it jumps quick and hard to get you there. Max RPM’s are 5200-5500 RPM for best power. Lopey cams may sound cool, but run poorly in a low RPM street environment.
    Use stock cam, stock, GT40 or mildly ported stock heads, Cobra or Explorer/GT40 intake, advanced timing, stock 19 lb injectors, stock fuel pump. Use some good 1.6 or 1.7 ratio roller rockers for extra punch. Use a King Cobra clutch, with stock iron or steel billet flywheel. MAF cars can use a 65 MM TB from the Explorer intake manifold and a 70MM MAF from a 94-95 Mustang. Drive train: 3:55 gears with soft tread compound tires. Use some Ford Racing unequal length headers, stock 2 1/4” cat pipe and some mufflers that don’t drone or get too much attention from the law enforcement or neighbors. The stock computer will handle all this with no problems and doesn’t need any help in 90% of the cases. No skinny or grossly undersize tires for the front: remember you still have to stop quickly in traffic. Make sure all the rubber bushings in the front and rear suspensions are in first class shape. Leave the emissions equipment intact and working. Removing or disabling it won’t get you any more HP or performance. Do not convert to carb or remove A/C: either one will reduce the resale value. Carb conversions cannot be titled for street use or get tags in some places. They definitely won’t pass smog inspections.

    Street/strip: A little more slope to the torque curve with a gently sloping peak. Use slightly larger port volumes on intake and heads for more peak HP. Uses 3.55 or 3.73 gears to get the RPM’s up into a higher range quicker. Be prepared to sacrifice some low RPM throttle response in exchange for high RPM power. This by necessity will be a Mass Air or Mass Air conversion on 86-88 5.0 Mustangs, since stock speed density will not run well with the changes in engine airflow. Don’t get too crazy on any one engine part since you still have to drive the car on the street, and a mismatch can make street driving miserable.
    Use stock or mild aftermarket cam, Ported GT 40, or 165-180 CC port volume aftermarket aluminum heads. Use a Trick Flow, Edelbrock Performer or equal intake manifold. Take a 73 MM aftermarket MAF calibrated for 24 lb injectors, and 24 lb injectors, 155 LPH fuel pump, Kirban adjustable fuel pressure regulator. Be prepared to shell out some $$$ for a custom burned chip using data gathered from a dyno run. Mass market chips will not get the job done. Use some Ford Racing unequal length headers, aftermarket 2 1/2” cat pipe and some mufflers that don’t drone or get too much attention from the law enforcement or neighbors. Drivetrain: expect the stock T5 to fail, so save your money for a super duty 5 speed trans. Tremec 3550, TKO 500 & TKO 600 are the best choices. Different gears in a stock T5 case work for some, but there is only so much power you can pass through a T5 in race mode before it breaks, even with stronger gears. Next are the Chassis mods: full length subframe connectors, different springs, different shocks, aftermarket lower and upper control arms with rubber or urethane bushings. Buy all the parts from someplace like Maximum Motorsports, Griggs or Steeda as a kit so that you know that all the parts fit and don’t argue with each other. Carry spare tires and wheels for the drag strip: skinnys for the front and drag radials for the rear. No skinnys for street driving! Over 85% of the breaking power is generated by the front tires, so skinnys won’t do the job in a panic stop situation. Disconnect the front anti-roll bar at the strip; reconnect it before you drive home. Leave the emissions equipment intact and working. Removing or disabling it won’t get you any more HP or performance. Do not convert to carb or remove A/C: either one will reduce the resale value. Carb conversions cannot be titled for street use or get tags in some places. They definitely won’t pass smog inspections.

    Strip only: High RPM, High flow heads (185-215 CC port volume), wild cam, high flow intake manifold, 70 MM or larger TB, 80 MM or lager MAF, strip everything out of the car that doesn’t make it go faster. Carbs are OK if that’s what you want, but remember that as the temp/humidity/ barometric pressure/altitude changes, you have to re-jet and readjust the carb. EFI eliminates most of that with its built in compensation or you can tune of the fly with a high end Motes or Tweecer system combined with a wide band air/fuel ratio meter. Use custom headers, dumps and minimal mufflers. How fast you can go on 5 liters is a function of the skill level of the driver/mechanic and the size of your wallet.

    TRAILER the car to the race track since it won’t be legal to drive it on the street. Drag slicks in the rear, skinnys up front, use 3.73 or bigger gears (4.xx) in the rear axle. Since you won’t be driving on long trips, the big gears with work with the high RPM power curve to get the best results. Drivetrain: TKO 500 & TKO 600 are the best choices. Different gears in a stock T5 case work for some, but there is only so much power you can pass through a T5 in race mode before it breaks, even with stronger gears. Next are the Chassis mods: full length subframe connectors, different springs, different shocks, aftermarket lower and upper control arms with rubber or urethane bushings. Buy all the parts from someplace like Maximum Motorsports, Griggs or Steeda as a kit so that you know that all the parts fit and don’t argue with each other. Remove the front sway bar, put an airbag in the rear spring of the side that spins the tire the most. Plan on a roll cage if you are truly serious about going fast: most strips will require it once you get to a certain ET range.

    Autocross is a combination of Hot street engine and street strip chassis prep. The engine must accelerate quickly from low RPM and needs a broad, flat torque curve. Next are the Chassis mods: full length subframe connectors, different springs, different shocks, aftermarket lower and upper control arms with rubber or urethane bushings. Buy all the parts from someplace like Maximum Motorsports, Griggs or Steeda as a kit so that you know that all the parts fit and don’t argue with each other. Most of the time you’ll never hit third gear, so some 3.73 or bigger gears (4.xx) may help a lot. You’ll have to spend some more money on brakes since it kills brakes quickly. Rear disks, larger rotors up front, stainless steel brake lines, different brake pads. A 87-88 T Bird Turbo Coupe or SN 95 rear axle will be your best bet. Autocross will severely strain 1st & 2nd gears, so your T5 may take a premature dump. Save your money for a super duty 5 speed trans. Tremec 3550, TKO 500 & TKO 600 are the best choices.

    All out road race is the most difficult of all: an engine that will run at high rpm hour after hour and never fail, yet pull hard out of the hairpin turns that will require a lot of torque at lower RPMs. In my opinion, guys that can successfully build a winning road race engine are the cream of the crop. Top this off with a chassis built for strip only duty, but with changes to the settings of springs, tires, roll bars brakes and shocks. It’s a whole other world of racing.
    You’ll have to spend lots more money on brakes since it kills brakes quickly. Rear disks, larger rotors up front, stainless steel brake lines, different brake pads. Air ducting to cool the brake rotors will be a must. The brake rotors of cars on a high speed road course glow red after several hard laps of racing. Drivetrain: TKO 500 & TKO 600, and T56 close ratio are the best transmission choices.
     
    #12
  13. A5literMan

    A5literMan Mustang Master

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    Wow! Now that is a post! A wealth of info and should be a sticky!!
     
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  14. 85SVOGUY

    85SVOGUY Member

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    Agreed ^
     
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  15. Prospect

    Prospect Member

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    Wow, that's some post. Thank you for the time you took out to reply.
    I'm just about to buy the TFS 360hp top end kit and call it a day, but does anyone have any suggestions
    of any other combo or kit for the same price before I buy it?
     
    #15
  16. FoxMustangLvr

    FoxMustangLvr Mustang Master

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    As far as I know, there are no other better "kits". You can piece together but that takes time and research and you made it pretty clear that you want to pull the trigger on it TODAY (which already came and went). Lots of people either recommend the TFS kit or piece together some AFR heads, holley systemax / edelbrock rpm intake with a custom grind cam. Can't beat those two options. If i were you i'd take my time before spending lots of money on a h/c/i kit and do the research to achieve your desired HP goals. Make sure you have the $$ to do the supporting mods, the top end kit is only the beginning like mentioned above, TB, mass air, fuel delivery and a good tune are all mandatory to get it running correctly.

    Do you have subframes and torque box reinforcements yet?? How are your brakes? To go fast, you gotta stop fast too.
     
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  17. Prospect

    Prospect Member

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    I have it in my shopping cart, but I haven't bought it yet. There's no solid research available because all of the information on the forums are opinion based.
    I've read magazine articles that claim certain things, and every forum topic I come across usually ends in an argument that leads no where. To top that off,
    even when people agree somewhat, there's still a variance in preference but from the endless research I've done, it seems that the TFS 360hp kit is my best bet.
    Takes out the guess work and I don't have to worry about whether or not the combo will work well together.

    I do happen to have a subframe kit. Brakes are good.
     
    #17
  18. FoxMustangLvr

    FoxMustangLvr Mustang Master

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    I don't see how you'd be disappointed with the TFS kit. Depends with the other supporting mods you do you should hit the 300 rwhp mark easy. There are a lot of youtube videos of fox mustangs that just finished with the TFS kit install. Checkem out if you haven't yet, they're impressive in my opinion.
     
    #18
  19. A5literMan

    A5literMan Mustang Master

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    Nothing wrong with that kit. You'll be happy with the results IMO. Just remember to back it up with all the extras. Also I can't remember and don't want to check what rear gears do you have? I def recommend some if stock. Good luck with your build and enjoy!
     
    #19
  20. Prospect

    Prospect Member

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    The car has:

    3.73 gears
    Flow master H pipe exhaust
    BBK headers
    BBK CAI
    MSD distributor
    Bored 30 over to 306
     
    #20

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