In the PNW, if you order your parts early Monday morning you should get your parts on Friday when ordering from LMR. At least that's been my experience.
My Project Car...90 Gt
- Thread starter Bigsky
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You just described my ex wife in high school! Damn that was funny. And White Rain!! Haven't heard/thought about that in a very long time. Just got an entire nostalgic "feel" from that posting...lmao
It probably describes a lot of ex wives...even grannys...Hehe...
So I got a bunch of goodies for my weekend work today... Head lights, hatch weather stripping, fog lights, ignition switch, head light pigtail, and I already had u-joints and brake calipers. Got my work cut out for me this weekend.
Having any luck with the weekend repairs buddy?
Damn...it is hot out...I knew it would be, so I started at first light and got the ignition switch and the light pig tail swapped out. I didn't splice the new wires into the harness I just clipped my existing wires into the new clip. I then jacked up the rear of the car and realised I needed a second pair of stands to elevate the front end...so 70 miles later (I live in the sticks) I started on the drive shaft removal. Everything went well, the front u-joints were shot, when I pressed them out dust spilled out of the caps...
So I pressed them in...replaced the shaft and it started warming up real good...I jumped on the front caliper swap...odd thing is the pads were brand new..the drivers side caliper was sticking so I replaced em both anyway...knocked that task out and bled the brake system with my handy vacuum pump...works awesome..slapped the tires on and took her for a short spin...
No speedo...I didn't properly install the speedo cable on the cluster..broke my heart.. tomorrow morning I'm gonna tackle that issue and do the head lights..should be safe and sound for daily driving. Under the car looks awesome on my initial inspection...passenger side pan got bent a little due to improper jacking point..
Next weekend I am hoping to swap blinker switch and pigtails.
I reconnected the speedo cable and put dash back together. Took off front left tire and filed down brake pad retainer clip so it won't rub on rim.
Installed fog lights but they don't turn on... need a ratchet wrench to remove headlights..next weekend I need to get head lights installed, figure out fog light issue, change oil, fix leak in tire, diagnose map light issue, and determine failure of turn signal function.
Next major fix needs to be 5 lug conversion. Haven't decided if I want to go rear disk at this time or just get the five lug done so I can get new rims and snow tires... what ever I decide sub frame connectors are also on the near future agenda.
There are a few systems still in need of fixing...but they will require more education to fix. The air conditioner and cruise control are going to be on the agenda for this winter. I want them up and running next summer...hopefully I can get through this winter with my cracked windshield..(I'd hate to replace it in fall only to have it cracked a month later when they start sanding the roads)
Installed fog lights but they don't turn on... need a ratchet wrench to remove headlights..next weekend I need to get head lights installed, figure out fog light issue, change oil, fix leak in tire, diagnose map light issue, and determine failure of turn signal function.
Next major fix needs to be 5 lug conversion. Haven't decided if I want to go rear disk at this time or just get the five lug done so I can get new rims and snow tires... what ever I decide sub frame connectors are also on the near future agenda.
There are a few systems still in need of fixing...but they will require more education to fix. The air conditioner and cruise control are going to be on the agenda for this winter. I want them up and running next summer...hopefully I can get through this winter with my cracked windshield..(I'd hate to replace it in fall only to have it cracked a month later when they start sanding the roads)
SEE Mustang GT Fog Light Fix to fix the foglight problem. The stock wiring isn't up to the job and is overheating. The headlight switch & turn/multifunction switch are affected by Ford's wiring problem. Sometimes it overheats so badly that the plastic shells of the wiring connectors start to melt. This will show you how to add a relay to the fog lights to relieve the overload on the headlight wiring.
Be careful not to use bulbs rated at more than 55 watt each with the stock fog light wiring. Using oversize bulbs can result in overheating the wiring harness and electrical fires. Definitely do the fog light fix first.
I did mine differently, but I had to build my own wiring harness for the fog lights. This is more trouble than it is worth for most folks. I left all the wiring on the stock light switches in place and used the fog light wiring to power the relay coil. The other side of the relay coil is connected to ground. I have an inline fuse that picks up power from the battery side of the starter solenoid. It is connected to the relay contact. The other relay contact is connected to the new wiring harness I made for the fog lights.
The advantage of making your own foglight wiring harness is that you can run 100 watt fog light bulbs. The stock wiring harness will not use 100 watt bulbs without overloading and causing a fire.
Unless you are good at electrical wiring, have the skills and tools (crimp tool, soldering gun, heat gun for the heat shrink tubing, etc.) I recommend that you stick with the Corral method.
Technical explanation of why the wiring and switches overheat.
You asked for it...
I= Current
E= Voltage
R= Resistance
W= Watts
Two 55 watt fog lamps =110 watts. Find the current in the circuit
I= W/E
110 watts/14 volts = 7.85 amps for fog lights alone.
Since the lighting circuit supplies headlights, taillights, and parking lights, etc.
56 watts 2 each GE Part # L3156 corner light 28 watts each
90 watts 2 each GE Part # 9004 headlight 45/65 watts each (low beam)
63 watts 2 each GE Part # L194 parking light 31.5 watts each
56 watts 2 each GE Part # L3157 tail light 28 watts each
265 watts Total
Total other exterior lighting current
I=W/E
265 watts/14 volts = 18.92 amps
18.92 amps other exterior lighting current
+ 7.85 amps fog light current
26.77 amps with all exterior lights and fog lights on.
The 12 gauge power feed wire to the exterior lighting switch is rated at 20 amps
26.77
- 20.00
6.77 amps excess current
7.85 amps used by fog lights
-6.77 amps excess current
1.08 amps to run the fog lights left if you stay within the 20 amp limit of the wire.
With 1.08 amp of current, the fog lights probably won’t produce any useable light.
Added resistance required to reduce fog light current to permissible 20 amp limit
R=E/I
14 volts/6.77 amps = 2.06 ohms
Resistor wattage
W=EI
14 volts x 6.77 amps = 94.78 watts
You would need a 2 ohm, 100 watt resistor.
Light bulb ratings from http://www.roadparts.com/catalog/section30.pdf
Radio shack resistor catalog - no matches , and no combinations that could be used to make a 100 watt, 2 Ohm resistor.
See RadioShack.com
Ohm’s law – in case you have any questions about my formulas - Ohm's Law Calculators
Be careful not to use bulbs rated at more than 55 watt each with the stock fog light wiring. Using oversize bulbs can result in overheating the wiring harness and electrical fires. Definitely do the fog light fix first.
I did mine differently, but I had to build my own wiring harness for the fog lights. This is more trouble than it is worth for most folks. I left all the wiring on the stock light switches in place and used the fog light wiring to power the relay coil. The other side of the relay coil is connected to ground. I have an inline fuse that picks up power from the battery side of the starter solenoid. It is connected to the relay contact. The other relay contact is connected to the new wiring harness I made for the fog lights.
The advantage of making your own foglight wiring harness is that you can run 100 watt fog light bulbs. The stock wiring harness will not use 100 watt bulbs without overloading and causing a fire.
Unless you are good at electrical wiring, have the skills and tools (crimp tool, soldering gun, heat gun for the heat shrink tubing, etc.) I recommend that you stick with the Corral method.
Technical explanation of why the wiring and switches overheat.
You asked for it...
I= Current
E= Voltage
R= Resistance
W= Watts
Two 55 watt fog lamps =110 watts. Find the current in the circuit
I= W/E
110 watts/14 volts = 7.85 amps for fog lights alone.
Since the lighting circuit supplies headlights, taillights, and parking lights, etc.
56 watts 2 each GE Part # L3156 corner light 28 watts each
90 watts 2 each GE Part # 9004 headlight 45/65 watts each (low beam)
63 watts 2 each GE Part # L194 parking light 31.5 watts each
56 watts 2 each GE Part # L3157 tail light 28 watts each
265 watts Total
Total other exterior lighting current
I=W/E
265 watts/14 volts = 18.92 amps
18.92 amps other exterior lighting current
+ 7.85 amps fog light current
26.77 amps with all exterior lights and fog lights on.
The 12 gauge power feed wire to the exterior lighting switch is rated at 20 amps
26.77
- 20.00
6.77 amps excess current
7.85 amps used by fog lights
-6.77 amps excess current
1.08 amps to run the fog lights left if you stay within the 20 amp limit of the wire.
With 1.08 amp of current, the fog lights probably won’t produce any useable light.
Added resistance required to reduce fog light current to permissible 20 amp limit
R=E/I
14 volts/6.77 amps = 2.06 ohms
Resistor wattage
W=EI
14 volts x 6.77 amps = 94.78 watts
You would need a 2 ohm, 100 watt resistor.
Light bulb ratings from http://www.roadparts.com/catalog/section30.pdf
Radio shack resistor catalog - no matches , and no combinations that could be used to make a 100 watt, 2 Ohm resistor.
See RadioShack.com
Ohm’s law – in case you have any questions about my formulas - Ohm's Law Calculators
The rear disc can wait IMO. They only provide about 20% of the braking. Unless you're wanting the disc look right away, just check the pads, drums, and slave cylinder in the back.
I highly recommend the SFCs. The car will handle so much better with them welded in.
MY 85 GT
10 Year Member
I know there is a cost difference in the various ways a 5 lug swap could be performed but for me personally when I went from 4 lug stock brakes to 13"/11.65" Cobra disc brakes the difference was amazing!! I would never recommend anything less.
I agree with that. I guess I'm thinking he's keeping the four lug for a bit.
mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
I agree but you are looking at a min of $2000 when you factor in new rims and tires.... Debating this right now myself.
True but nobody has a problem spending about $4k or more on an HCI combo or blower. $2k on wheels and excellent stopping power is well worth it and provides huge benefits. I did my current 5.0 backwards than most people would I guess, I began (this time) with brakes, handling and SFC's up front leaving HP next on my list of things to do. I'd like to think this is the "textbook" way to mod a Fox?
I am new to building cars..I know for a fact I'm gonna need snow tires this winter unless goerbels warming comes true...(not holding my breath) I don't wish to spend big money on snow tires to have no need for them NEXT winter...so priorities and planning are key. I have decided to keep the stock brakes and upgrade to five lug..the reason is that I drive this car 45 miles one way on interstate one way..the brakes get used a score of times at most...I just want to be able to use the rims I want forever and not have a set of useless blizaks sitting around harboring zika skeeters...
My philosophy on building a car... I have thought this out thoroughly and this is my first build..
Start with a suitable car
Get all stock systems working efficiently
Get the car comfortable to sit in and to drive..with safety being a priority. Performance mods come last and in this order...suspension, brakes, transmission, cooling, and finally engine..
I don't know if this order is actually correct...it just makes sense to me..AND MY FRIGGIN WIFE...so am I wrong?
My philosophy on building a car... I have thought this out thoroughly and this is my first build..
Start with a suitable car
Get all stock systems working efficiently
Get the car comfortable to sit in and to drive..with safety being a priority. Performance mods come last and in this order...suspension, brakes, transmission, cooling, and finally engine..
I don't know if this order is actually correct...it just makes sense to me..AND MY FRIGGIN WIFE...so am I wrong?
You're golden brother, most of us become children though and leap to the hp gains first.
.
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I agree...I've been in a ton of piles with awesome engines, mismatched rims, power steering not working and seat belts cut out...like the only concern was speed and stereo...seemed hoopty to say the least.True but nobody has a problem spending about $4k or more on an HCI combo or blower. $2k on wheels and excellent stopping power is well worth it and provides huge benefits. I did my current 5.0 backwards than most people would I guess, I began (this time) with brakes, handling and SFC's up front leaving HP next on my list of things to do. I'd like to think this is the "textbook" way to mod a Fox?
OK...been a while. Work is keeping me busy as hell. I did make time to figure out my blinker issue. At some point the turn signal wire going to the pigtail came out and was reinserted into wrong cavity..I remedied the situation and discovered I need a new turn signal pigtail. The retainer clips are all broken off. Ordered replacement today along with maximum motorsport sub frame connectors.
I have still to install headlights and the car is going to be due an oil change this Sunday...
I have been driving the car for the last two weeks..it burns a little oil and is somehow consuming coolant. I have to fill the reservoir once a week to the HOT line..
I f-ing love driving this car...gradually working out the bugs but all in all the car is running great for a 26 yr old car...
Well Sunday is the day...oil change and head lights...
I have still to install headlights and the car is going to be due an oil change this Sunday...
I have been driving the car for the last two weeks..it burns a little oil and is somehow consuming coolant. I have to fill the reservoir once a week to the HOT line..
I f-ing love driving this car...gradually working out the bugs but all in all the car is running great for a 26 yr old car...
Well Sunday is the day...oil change and head lights...
