Build Thread Enola- Finishing touches

Parts have finally started to slowly come in. The electrical system is getting an upgrade and I will be fixing some of the issues the PO created for me and some I made for myself. Note #1 never buy a cheap battery relocation kit....... ever.
I am doing everything short of replacing all the 1/0 cable on the car, apparently not all O2 free cable is O2 free.... figures. I may replace the main feed with a quality 2/0 welding cable if I still get voltage drop issues at startup.
Note #2 don't use fuses. over time large amp draws will start to kill them, then they become a choke point themselves as they break down. I just got 300 amp and 150 amp 12v circuit breakers in the mail, these should fix that.
Note #3 if you run 2 batteries in the trunk like I do [needed for huge draws from the stereo] wire them correctly........ I literally just figured this one out, took a class today on solar systems and they explained how to properly wire batteries in parallel. :doh: No wonder I kept killing the main battery, it was seeing all the major current draw.

I am currently looking for a place to source solder bars from ( this idea is way overkill..... I want to fill the wire lugs with molten solder using a torch then dip the wire into them and crimp while they are still hot) whialternatively a good electric paste to stave off corrosion would likely suffice. Thoughts??

the small wiring issues include buttsplices which done correctly work fine but I'm not taking any chances I am going to solder these connections and heatshrink.
 
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Parts have finally started to slowly come in. The electrical system is getting an upgrade and I will be fixing some of the issues the PO created for me and some I made for myself. Note #1 never buy a cheap battery relocation kit....... ever.
I am doing everything short of replacing all the 1/0 cable on the car, apparently not all O2 free cable is O2 free.... figures. I may replace the main feed with a quality 2/0 welding cable if I still get voltage drop issues at startup.
Note #2 don't use fuses. over time large amp draws will start to kill them, then they become a choke point themselves as they break down. I just got 300 amp and 150 amp 12v circuit breakers in the mail, these should fix that.
Note #3 if you run 2 batteries in the trunk like I do [needed for huge draws from the stereo] wire them correctly........ I literally just figured this one out, took a class today on solar systems and they explained how to properly wire batteries in parallel. :doh: No wonder I kept killing the main battery, it was seeing all the major current draw.

I am currently looking for a place to source solder bars from ( this idea is way overkill..... I want to fill the wire lugs with molten solder using a torch then dip the wire into them and crimp while they are still hot) whialternatively a good electric paste to stave off corrosion would likely suffice. Thoughts??

the small wiring issues include buttsplices which done correctly work fine but I'm not taking any chances I am going to solder these connections and heatshrink.
Amazon.com has you covered for solder bars and solder pots...
See Amazon product ASIN B001QV1APGView: http://www.amazon.com/60-Lead-Solder-Made-RotoMetals/dp/B001QV1APG
 
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Sounds like you already know what to do. So to justify this useless post don't come back until you've put in one of these.
htip_back_to_future_mr_fusion_replica.jpg
 
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anyone else running a ms and has dyno #'s following my thread???? I have an equation for HP from injector duty cycle that I want to test for accuracy..... its real simple and all I need is the specs from the dyno and a datalog of the run....
 
got sumthing done today. rewired a few things still waiting on more parts. changed the battery connections and ground points in the trunk seemed to help quite a bit. its ugly but will do until I get the rest of the stuff in to do it right. one little problem though, the voltage drop at the starter is extreme. drops all the way down to around 8.9 volts during hot starts, no wonder I was having issues. Before we changed the connection points it was down in the 7 volt range.... maybe the starter is bad... again.... for like the 6th time???? :shrug:
 
First I want to say thanks to @84Ttop for coming through with the drill bit for the injectors.


Now the first thing I'm going to say is that this intakes going to work amazing right after I fix everything that's wrong with it Port shape gasket match and the plenum work that needs done if you've ever seen one of these you know what I mean. The results are so so it worked the pads have to be machine down to the injectors will actually fit in the holes there is so much material there I thought I was actually going to China. Then there's the fact that during casting had some sort of mold shift happen so not all of the pads were symmetrical so even though I set the stop on the drill press I got a little bit of breakthrough this can be fixed by adding an extra o-ring. Here's a pic of what I'm talking about with the bad casting......
20160613_184830.jpg
 
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First I want to say thanks to @84Ttop for coming through with the drill bit for the injectors.


Now the first thing I'm going to say is that this intakes going to work amazing right after I fix everything that's wrong with it Port shape gasket match and the plenum work that needs done if you've ever seen one of these you know what I mean. The results are so so it worked the pads have to be machine down to the injectors will actually fit in the holes there is so much material there I thought I was actually going to China. Then there's the fact that during casting had some sort of mold shift happen so not all of the pads were symmetrical so even though I set the stop on the drill press I got a little bit of breakthrough this can be fixed by adding an extra o-ring. Here's a pic of what I'm talking about with the bad casting......
20160613_184830.jpg
Dang that far left port is scary lookin with half a wall missing!

Sent from my Samsung Note 4 using Tapatalk
 
20160615_192106.jpg
Frankenstang Engineering..... now open for business.

This is what 20mins with an angle grinder then will get you. Then I finished it off with a wire wheel to clean up the grinding marks, it looks OK. Once I do the other side maybe I will come back with a flap wheel to really smooth it out.

Today I will unshroud the injector pockets. I was whooped yesterday, the FL sun is evil this year.
 
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20160615_192106.jpg
Frankenstang Engineering..... now open for business.

This is what 20mins with an angle grinder then will get you. Then I finished it off with a wire wheel to clean up the grinding marks, it looks OK. Once I do the other side maybe I will come back with a flap wheel to really smooth it out.

Today I will unshroud the injector pockets. I was whooped yesterday, the FL sun is evil this year.

Looks good man. What are your plans for rail retainer mounts? Are you going to drill and tap holes?
 
20160615_192106.jpg
Frankenstang Engineering..... now open for business.

This is what 20mins with an angle grinder then will get you. Then I finished it off with a wire wheel to clean up the grinding marks, it looks OK. Once I do the other side maybe I will come back with a flap wheel to really smooth it out.

Today I will unshroud the injector pockets. I was whooped yesterday, the FL sun is evil this year.

Ok Kreskin. You're doing some illusionist stuff here.

On the top photo, the #4 port is completely broken through. On the bottom pic, it looks like there is aluminum there. Did you omit the part where you fixed the break through?

And the Florida sun is best put in it's place w/ an 89 dollar Acadamey Sports EZ up, and a blue blowie.

I keep tellin myself that I'm gonna get an old radiator, and a a wash tub and box fan and make a Mike's Swamp Cooler, but that is another project that'll never see fruition as long as there is "the hood".
 
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