Build Thread Enola- Finishing touches

@Boosted92LX yes probably some aluminum square stock tapped into the intake then fuel rails to the stock.... needs spacers to get the injector angle correct.

@madmike1157 nope.... I just ground off the mountain of extra aluminum in the casting... I actually cut the pads down about .5-.75 inches.....
About the sun.... I am an industrial electrician, that means I do all kinds of stuff others dont. Yesterday I was walking 8" I-beams 60' off the ground pulling up 40lb brackets for cable tray with a rope, then welding them to the steel..... because I can't get a welder out of the hall I had to do it myself, instead of pointing and scribbling in my note pad....
Yes we train our own welders.
 
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No........ both batteries are in the trunk. Should I run a ground from the battery up to the starter?

Yes...

You need to reduce the voltage drop to a bare minimum

Rear mounted battery ground wiring. Follow this plan and you will have zero
ground problems.


One 1 gauge or 1/0 gauge wire from battery negative post to a clean shiny spot on the chassis near the battery. Use a 5/16” bolt and bolt it down to make the rear ground. Use a 1 gauge or 1/0 gauge wire from the rear ground bolt to a clean shiny spot on the block.

One 4 gauge wire from the block where you connected the battery ground wire to the chassis ground where the battery was mounted up front. Use a 5/16” bolt and bolt down the 4 gauge engine to chassis ground, make sure that it the metal around the bolt is clean & shiny. This is the alternator power ground.

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The computer has a dedicated power ground wire with a cylindrical quick connect (about 2 ½”long by 1” diameter. It comes out of the wiring harness near the ignition coil & starter solenoid (or relay). Be sure to bolt it to the chassis ground in the same place as you bolted the alternator power ground. This is an
absolute don’t overlook it item for EFI cars

Note: The quick disconnect may have fallen victim to damage or removal by a previous owner. However, it is still of utmost importance that the black/green wires have a high quality ground..

Picture courtesy timewarped1972
ground.jpg


Crimp or even better, solder the lugs on the all the wire. The local auto stereo shop will have them if the auto parts store doesn't. Use some heat shrink tubing to cover the lugs and make things look nice.


Voltage drop testing of connections and grounds.

Use a Digital Volt Meter (DVM) to measure the voltage drop across a connection or wire. Adding length to the test leads may be required, and does not affect the accuracy of the test. Use 16-18 gauge wire for the test leads if you have to lengthen them.

Voltage drop increases with the increase of current in a circuit and it also increases with heat. Put a maximum current load on a bad wire or connection and it gets hot and drops more voltage across the wire or connection. As it heats up, resistance increases which makes more heat. Round and round you go in a vicious circle until something catches fire or fails.

Voltage drop testing must be done while the usual load is on the circuit. If it is a starter, it has to be tested while cranking the starter. If it is lights, A/C or fan, they must be turned on high while testing. Fail to do this and you will not get accurate results

1.) Most grounds use the negative battery post as their starting point. Keep this in mind when checking grounds.
2.) The voltage will be small if the ground is good: less voltage drop = better connection.
3.) Be sure that the power to the circuit is on, and the circuit is being used in its normal manner. For instance, if it is a light circuit, the lights on that circuit should be powered on.
4.) To measure grounds, place one DVM lead on the battery negative post and the other on the wire or connector that goes to ground.
5.) 5.) Voltage drops should not exceed the following:
200 mV Wire or cable
300 mV Switch
100 mV Ground
0 mV to <50 mV Sensor Connections (sensors are low voltage devices and small drops can have a large effect on the devices dependent on sensor accuracy)
0.0V Connections
A voltage drop lower that spec is always acceptable.
6.)
See http://assets.fluke.com/appnotes/automotive/beatbook.pdf for help for help troubleshooting voltage drops across connections and components. .

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Thanks @jrichker I will fix it.

Update!
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shrouded.....
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unshrouded.....

Now I need to get an elbow...... make one or buy one? Hhmmmmm.......

The Franky in me says make one it would suit the build..... but buying one is ssoooooo much easier.....

Opinions?


I also picked up the aluminum stock to mount the injector rails with.... tomorrow.
 
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No updates as of yet. I'm looking for a steel carb spacer of some sort to use as a base for the elbow..... man I really need a AC capable tig.

This morning is a wash, I am going to volunteer my time at a science center in St Petersburg Fl.... come to think of it I do a lot of volunteer work, road cleanups, go talk to kids at job fairs... at least it's something positive for the community.
 
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ok just got back from measuring stuff... the high flow 3849 might fit... if I grind my fiberglass hood.. lol around .5" too tall at the TB flange. if I face it tward the firewall it will fit perfect... but who am I kidding I don't need 1400 cfm.
so it looks like the edelbrock 3848 will fit with room to spare, and wont be a bottleneck.
then I will need to modify it, drilled for vacuum ports.
gonna order a crankcase evacuation kit from summit while I'm at it, if I cant see the oil vapor it doesn't exist right?

MMWWWAHAHAHAHAHA one step closer to my master plan :ninja:

splitting the block with iron heads= priceless
 
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Trimming trees sucks. Spent 13 hours yesterday at a friends house taking a tree down (just the two of us) roping the limbs over the house and barn as we went.
We split the cost of the lift so today we did my house, another 12hour day. But I have more property and just dropped the limbs chained them to the tractor and pulled them out of the way... I'm beat.

In other news, I ordered a UPR vacuum block and some heavy welding cable. Gonna fix the electrical issues the right way, with non chine cable.
Jegs dropped the ball and sold me an elbow they didn't have, I had to call them and ask where it was. They said "the item is on back order currently". WTF! why sell something you don't have and give me a fake shipping number???
Prompt refund, summit wins again.
 
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Got some ish done tonight. Sorry about the wait, my wife fractured her ankle, not cool. Needless to say she is top priority right now.

But tonight I got a reprieve here is what I got done.
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you can see in this last pic that my 65mm tb is tiny compared to the 90mm elbow! Maybe..... soon I can sneak in a purchase for an 80+mm tb for the blower and move the 75mm to the intake. All the piping is 3" so I don't see a need for anything larger than a 75 at the intake itself.
:banana::banana::banana:
 
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Oh and the IAT sensor will be going in the intake piping before the tb. I knew I ordered these bugs wrong 2 years ago for a reason.... lol.
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any reason I can't feed all the vacuum loads with one block? (Including the brake booster)??
 
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Oh and the IAT sensor will be going in the intake piping before the tb. I knew I ordered these bugs wrong 2 years ago for a reason.... lol.
20160701_232054.jpg
any reason I can't feed all the vacuum loads with one block? (Including the brake booster)??
Vacuum is the same anyplace in the manifold after the TB, A vacuum tree or log is that the stock system uses, so you should be OK. The only thing I would not share a vacuum source with is the fuel pressure regulator. Even the stock vacuum plumbing has a separate vacuum source for the fuel pressure regulator
 
Oh and the IAT sensor will be going in the intake piping before the tb. I knew I ordered these bugs wrong 2 years ago for a reason.... lol.
20160701_232054.jpg
any reason I can't feed all the vacuum loads with one block? (Including the brake booster)??
That is a pretty piece. I intend to get that for my red car when I finally get to that stage. Looks bunches better than that plastic thing, huh?