Yes, close to that. I'm trying to get everything working because this will be it. Once its done, its done, or I'm done by threat of death by wife.
Progress Thread Nasty Ninety Notch
- Thread starter joetrainer31
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I totally get that last part. I think my wife mentioned something about my car catching fire. I think she said something about me being in it at too but she denies that allegation. lol
UPDATE: rear C Kit springs installed, front coil overs install, ride height leveled.
Interestingly, the coil spring collar on the driver side is 2" front the bottom, the passenger side is about 6" from the bottom. This adjustment was needed in order to get the ride high leveled on all sides (i.e., 27 inches from floor to bottom of wheel well lip). Bent frame?
Interestingly, the coil spring collar on the driver side is 2" front the bottom, the passenger side is about 6" from the bottom. This adjustment was needed in order to get the ride high leveled on all sides (i.e., 27 inches from floor to bottom of wheel well lip). Bent frame?
Is it just me or does your car look like it's sitting at stock height? Not going to lower it down more?UPDATE: rear C Kit springs installed, front coil overs install, ride height leveled.
Interestingly, the coil spring collar on the driver side is 2" front the bottom, the passenger side is about 6" from the bottom. This adjustment was needed in order to get the ride high leveled on all sides (i.e., 27 inches from floor to bottom of wheel well lip). Bent frame?
Have a picture of the shocks in question? I've seen spring kits that have a 1/2" 'ish taller spring on the drivers side to take in account the person in the driver seat. That could make a difference in where the final collar position is but from what your saying it sounds it bit extreme.
Its (slightly) lower than stock height with the C Kit Springs in rear & front to match. I can take it lower, but then the front spring collars will be at the bottom (i.e., no more weight transfer). I'll have to call UPR, but from what I could tell the springs were the same height. They are the 14-200 springs.
UPDATE: rear C Kit springs installed, front coil overs install, ride height leveled.
Interestingly, the coil spring collar on the driver side is 2" front the bottom, the passenger side is about 6" from the bottom. This adjustment was needed in order to get the ride high leveled on all sides (i.e., 27 inches from floor to bottom of wheel well lip). Bent frame?
That makes no sense at all, did they ship 2 different springs maybe ?
Why 200 lb? That's nearing track spec, I run 300
Also lower the nose a hair, rake is good on a mustang!
Its looking good!
Thanks! I checked the number on both springs and they are the same. The 14-200 springs were suggested by UPR since the car won't hook until somewhere in 3rd. I was looking for better weight transfer.
Start here:
Mustang Forums at StangNet
This will show you the layout of the forum. Enter in the forum that applies to you. Once you're into a specific year/body style of Mustang, you will see the General Talk forum and the Technical forum. In the upper right hand corner, you will see a button labeled "POST NEW THREAD". That's where you begin.
Take a little time to study the layout from the link I showed you.
Noobz
The passenger side is totally compressed more because the collar is rotated up more in order to achieve the same ride height as the driver side. The p side is about 6" from the bottom, the d side is about 2. UPR said it could be two different springs, but both springs have the same part number. Then they said its probably a bad strut on the higher side. We think they don't know what's wrong.
We call nadda on that one because the struts don't/can't hold the weight of the car. I can manually push a new strut's piston down by hand. Not really sure yet what the issue is. We did notice that the top of the strut mount thread (at the CC plate side) had 1 more thread turned on the driver side (i.e., lower side), than the passenger side (i.e., higher side). We doubt that 1 thread would cause that much difference though.
They are not adjustable. The opposite corner of the car (i.e., rear driver side) sits slightly lower than the rest of the car.
I'm not sure how a struts could be collapsed on the front passenger side because the struts can't hold the weight of the car anyhow. I have new struts in the box and can compress them by hand. Additionally. and as a side note, struts can fail either extended or compressed. Thoughts?
I would really like to see pictures of the installed the struts/coil overs in question. We can make a 1000 guesses (like UPR) but you are the one that installed it and can see what's going on.
Maybe the sleeve that slips over the shock isn't mounted correctly some how?
Maybe the sleeve that slips over the shock isn't mounted correctly some how?
Ok, so problem solved. We just went ahead and R&R'd the front struts to make everything up front new. Now each side is only 1/8" off. That's totally better and will change after the car is driven. The point, though, is that it was indeed a bad strut. Since I didn't know how old the struts were I figured if we just R&R'd them it would take that possibility out of the equation.I would really like to see pictures of the installed the struts/coil overs in question. We can make a 1000 guesses (like UPR) but you are the one that installed it and can see what's going on.
Maybe the sleeve that slips over the shock isn't mounted correctly some how?
Next up are the rear shocks to match the front. Since the front now sits MUCH lower, and looks awesome, we will pull 1 of the rear isos per side out to match ride height. If y'all are wondering; they are KYB non-adjustable units. I'm going with this setup because 1) They won't break the bank, 2) I can get them fast, 3) the car is lightened already so the suspension (brakes & engine) become more efficacious, 4) brand new entry level struts/shocks are better than who knows how OLD hi-po units that are failing.
Pics coming shortly. Thanks for all the input guys!
I have the same non adjustable KYB shocks in the rear. The ride is a bit rougher, partially due to the eibach pro kit springs, though maybe you will like that but I'm thinking about going with a Monroe Sensatrac kind of shock/strut for my car to get the best ride while still being lowered a bit.
I hear you on that. I could have got those too, but I got the KYB rears for $24 each -new. At this point I just want the car done, right. Let me know how they work out for you though.
I have the "real" gangsta lean (my seat back). Very uncomfortable to drive this way
