NEED INFO ON E6SE HEADS

[ARPM]

I have a 66 coupe shell and will be installing a complete 1989 Crown Vic 5.0 and AOD to it on a budget. I have the cross member, TV cable and drive shaft yoke for it. I am refreshing the engine and installing a Professional Products Crosswind dual plenum intake, Edelbrock 600 carb and changing the cam to a B303 with ford racing springs. I had all this stored for about 2 years so the carb was rebuilt. Now here is the thing! The engine has a set of E6SE heads (No letters) and the engine has pistons with the small dish in them (No valve reliefs). I will be doing a basic porting on this heads (I know they are not the best heads out there) but it doesn't hurt to tweak them a little at fairly no cost. I also have a set of scorpion 3/8" roller rockers (stud mount) that will like to use on them. The questions are:

1) Is the exhaust smog bump solid or hollow? I heard 2 different stories about it.

2) Any one knows the part number of the 5/16" to 3/8" conversion studs to use 3/8" stud mount roller rockers?

3) Can the thermactor port at the rear be eliminated just by plugging it up?

4) The Professional Products intake requires a Fel-Pro 1250 gasket and I wonder if the intake ports can be opened for that gasket and the exhaust ports to a Fel-Pro 1415? Without any problems?

5) Any suggestions for milling the chamber to a "D" shape instead of the heart shape they have?

Thanks, any help greatly appreciated

 

[Decurion]

Dont bother. A set of even the lowly e7te's would be a nice improvement and are easily had for cheap.

 

[ARPM]

Dont bother. A set of even the lowly e7te's would be a nice improvement and are easily had for cheap.

Thanks for your reply. Maybe in continental USA is easy to get them at a reasonable cost, but here a set of iron GT40 undone run for $500 + Mach work , E7TE a set about $400 + Mach work. To bring them from USA to here about $200 ship. Then if i have to return them for any reason USPS 4th class will run $85. And then I am retired, so why take out all the fun of doin it? BesidesI will get some use of the parts I have laying around. The 89 Crown Vic cost me $1,000 and the only things I can use are the engine and the trans. So I have to use all I can from it. Thanks for your advise.

 

[Gearbanger 101]

Putting any work at all into a set of those closed chamber E6SE is a waste of time and effort IMO. Even if you do manage to open up the intake and exhaust ports enough that they'll support a little volume, the valves will still be so shrouded and airflow so limited by that crappy combustion chamber design that you'll have done it all for nothing.

If you’re building this car just to get it running, then go ahead and stick with your E6’s and don’t waste time porting them, but if you plan on going faster than 15’s and revving that engine over 4,500RPM, then pony up the bucks and buy a proper set of heads.

...and I'm sorry man, but if you think $500 + machine work is "expensive" at this point, you should probably re evaluate your plans....because restoring that '66 it right is going to get a lot more expensive than that...and fast!!!

 

[D.Hearne]

It won't hurt to open the exhaust ports up, but don't bother with the intake side. And leave the chambers be, other than maybe to try and unshroud the intake valves. The chambers may look small, but they're deeper too, the volume listed for them is 68 ccs. The deeper chamber is also the reason the pistons have no reliefs, the valve heads and seats are 1/8" farther into the head than all other small block heads. The cam will help boost the power to around what the 86 HO Stang motor was rated (200 HP). If you have access to a set of Crane Energizer rockers or the Cobra 1.7's, those will be a help too. I personally wouldn't try and use the adapter studs in place of the pedestal mount rockers. And replace the pushrods while you're at it, the roller motors don't rotate the pushrods in operation and the rocker ends will wear to a somewhat knife edge over time.

 

[ARPM]

Putting any work at all into a set of those closed chamber E6SE is a waste of time and effort IMO. Even if you do manage to open up the intake and exhaust ports enough that they'll support a little volume, the valves will still be so shrouded and airflow so limited by that crappy combustion chamber design that you'll have done it all for nothing.

If you’re building this car just to get it running, then go ahead and stick with your E6’s and don’t waste time porting them, but if you plan on going faster than 15’s and revving that engine over 4,500RPM, then pony up the bucks and buy a proper set of heads.

...and I'm sorry man, but if you think $500 + machine work is "expensive" at this point, you should probably re evaluate your plans....because restoring that '66 it right is going to get a lot more expensive than that...and fast!!!

Thanks for the reply. You are right on the money to get that coupe fully done. I spent $26,000 on my 66 gt coupe and did most of the work my self except body and paint. Ah! my 65 Shelby convertible clone was $167,000 job. Here things are expensive due to the air freight involved. Machining heads for larger valves, screw in studs, porting and milling it's an $800-$1,000 + parts job. I am not racing or going to the track on weekends with it. It's a shell that I got as a spare parts car that I have completed using parts from leftovers from my 3 previous projects. The crown Vic was purchased just to use the AOD on my 65 but got a good deal on a PA SuperStreeter AOD so now it’s a leftover to. Now, back to E6SE heads. I have seen some 86 mustangs @ the track here doing low 14s with this heads on. Most of them built on a low budget. That's the reason I am looking for info on these heads besides putting my spare parts out of the shelf they been laying during the last 2 years. After reading some posts here and in other forums about these heads I could see that they may not flow like the E7TE's but produce a lot of torque below 4500 even with the factory valves installed on them. So let's try to rescue them from the slaughter house cuz I already have to many door stops around here. And Hell! I just can sit wasting my time looking at my 3 stangs all day in my retirement.

 

[ARPM]

It won't hurt to open the exhaust ports up, but don't bother with the intake side. And leave the chambers be, other than maybe to try and unshroud the intake valves. The chambers may look small, but they're deeper too, the volume listed for them is 68 ccs. The deeper chamber is also the reason the pistons have no reliefs, the valve heads and seats are 1/8" farther into the head than all other small block heads. The cam will help boost the power to around what the 86 HO Stang motor was rated (200 HP). If you have access to a set of Crane Energizer rockers or the Cobra 1.7's, those will be a help too. I personally wouldn't try and use the adapter studs in place of the pedestal mount rockers. And replace the pushrods while you're at it, the roller motors don't rotate the pushrods in operation and the rocker ends will wear to a somewhat knife edge over time.

Thanks for the great info. Besides opening the exhaust to fel-pro 1415 is it safe to remove the smog bump? I read that they are hollow, others say it's not, so I am not sure who is right. About the intake valve unshrouding, is it just to remove the heart shape on the chamber and make a "D" like the open chamber heads or is there anything else to be done?

Thanks

 

[D.Hearne]

I'm sure removal of the thermactor bumps is the same as doing it with E7's. Just grind it flat. With E7's I open the walls and roof to match the header gaskets, leaving the floor alone. As for what's needed to unshroud the intake valve, use your own judgment, keep in mind that the chambers are already 68 cc's in volume. This is second only to the crap D8OE heads that were 70 ccs. I'd maybe just chamfer the edges of the chambers and leave the rest be. Removing the center portion to make em D shaped is going to take a lot of metal out, and I'm not sure just where the coolant passages are behind the chamber walls.

 

[ARPM]

I'm sure removal of the thermactor bumps is the same as doing it with E7's. Just grind it flat. With E7's I open the walls and roof to match the header gaskets, leaving the floor alone. As for what's needed to unshroud the intake valve, use your own judgment, keep in mind that the chambers are already 68 cc's in volume. This is second only to the crap D8OE heads that were 70 ccs. I'd maybe just chamfer the edges of the chambers and leave the rest be. Removing the center portion to make em D shaped is going to take a lot of metal out, and I'm not sure just where the coolant passages are behind the chamber walls.

Ok, I found a set of E7TE heads for $200.00 from a 1993 F150 Pick Up. They look pretty nice and look to be fully stock. I notice the smog bump it's smaller than the E6SE and also the push rod for the lifters are shorter than the ones in the E6SE. I may go with Proform 1.7 pedestal rollers. They are $175.00 @ summit. I will be taking them to the machine shop on monday after I clean them up a bit on the weekend.

 

[D.Hearne]

The pushrods should be the same length for both motors. Both came with roller cams.