Today I stopped in to the local autozone to pick up a quart of oil real quick and thought that I would have them scan the codes on the car to find out what was causing the light and the surging and bucking problem that the car has been having. My first thought was the tps but it's working fine now. So the code came up as MAF voltage low and that it was an intermittent code which seems right because it does not happen all the time. I just took it off and checked to see if it was dirty but it was not so has the sensor it's self gone bad? It is the factory sensor so I am thinking that the electronics have finally gone bad and need replacing. But I am afraid to buy a new sensor and it not fix the problem. So anyone with a similar experience please chime in here and offer any advice that you might have. Thanks!
Need Mass Air Help
- Thread starter 2L8ULUZ2
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2l8,
i can't help you with your problem, but pro-m is running a great deal on 80mm meters right now. $199, brand new. i ordered one a week ago because i couldn't resist such a good deal. now i have two extra meters to be sold this summer...
http://www.pro-flow.com/Sales Files/Sale Items.htm
i can't help you with your problem, but pro-m is running a great deal on 80mm meters right now. $199, brand new. i ordered one a week ago because i couldn't resist such a good deal. now i have two extra meters to be sold this summer...
http://www.pro-flow.com/Sales Files/Sale Items.htm
jmuva44
Founding Member
Mine did the same thing and got the same codes. I found a used ProM on Ebay and it fixed the rough idle and intermittant surging.
Look at it this way, just pay the initial amount of money needed to buy that ProM (~$125-$150) then sell the C&L for about the same. Thats how I did it. In the end, it didnt cost me anything to get the ProM.
Look at it this way, just pay the initial amount of money needed to buy that ProM (~$125-$150) then sell the C&L for about the same. Thats how I did it. In the end, it didnt cost me anything to get the ProM.
Try clocking the meter. When I had the Tweecer and did the data logging one day I noticed by spinning the meter it would change the voltage.
jmuva44
Founding Member
Yeah try that. Didnt work for me but I heard that it helps some people. I heard that 3 o'clock typically works best.
WhiteDevil
New Member
Just make completely sure that the connection is good. On my new prom 80mm i had some bad surging and the low voltage signal. What i noticed is that one of my prongs that holds the clips together was broken off and it wouldnt stay clicked in all the way. So now i spen 1 cent on a zip tie and have had no problems since.
Well the clocking to 3 o'clock helped it a little but it is still too low. It is much more driveable than it was before so I am guessing that this will just get me by until I can replace it. I really want to go pro-m but don't want to buy a new one so if anyone comes across one that's calibrated for 24's for a good price please PM or e-mail me.
squall9393
New Member
My MAF sensor went bad and I just pulled into Advance Auto not sure if it was the culprit of my problems or not. The store wasn't busy so the associate grabbed one and helped me change it out in like 2 minutes. That saved me from having to fool with a core charge too when he could just take the old one. He figure if your gonna buy it and then take it back in the same day might as well save the time and hassle. Luckly a new MAF fixed the problem and I did save time and the hassle. 
Well I have a C&L meter and have no idea where the stock housing is so I don't have a core and am not about to turn in my C&L housing for a core. And once I pay for the core charge I can almost buy a Pro-M.
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