Need to adjust Idle on FRPP 70mm T/B!!! (ASAP)

Discussion in 'SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech' started by BlackenedSVT, Mar 11, 2006.


  1. hotdog71

    hotdog71 Member

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    Throw it and find the cash for a 75mm BBK TB/P :hail2:
  2. Mike97gt

    Mike97gt it doe snot Mod Dude Founding Member

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    The reason I am telling him to plug the hole is, somebody went nuts porting this TB and there is air gaps at the top and bottom of the throttle bore with the blade fully closed.

    If those air gaps cant be closed he will have to either fill the hole and try to bring down the amount of air bypassing the throttle blade or get a new TB


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  3. BlackenedSVT

    BlackenedSVT Active Member

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    SVT, no no no. The T/B was NEVER ported. Onlythe plenum was. I JB welded the hole in the t/b blade and i backed the t/b set-screw off. There is no gaps now at all around the blade and it closes nice and flush without sticking.
  4. Shiroelex

    Shiroelex There's nothing worse than aut Founding Member

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    As far as I knew, the gaps were in the picture, because the blade was tilted a bit, because of that set screw holding it open slightly. :shrug:

    I've seen people mess with those set screws and the hole in the blade, when they had huge cams, and needed to bump the idle a tiny bit, but had no programmer to do it with.
  5. Mike97gt

    Mike97gt it doe snot Mod Dude Founding Member

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    look at the pics of the other ford 70mm it does not look the same as yours to me. yours looks ported. if you got the blade flush then open the hole back up. I thought you could not get the blade flush :shrug:

    I just looked at the pics again. LOOK at the ridge before the throttle blade on the other throttle body compared to the pic of yours. I still think yours has been ported.
  6. BlackenedSVT

    BlackenedSVT Active Member

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    Well after porting and polishing my own plenum, i know what a P&P metal looks like, and the 70mm T/b def looks factory. But anyway. I closed the t/b blade closed by turning the set-screw (that you techincally arne't supposed to touch). :p Anyway, i will leave the hole in the t/b blade closed for the time being, i am going outside now to install the newly modified P&P plenum back on the car with the 70mm t/b and see what happens. If it still runs wierd, i'll open the hole back up.

    SVTTECH, check your PMs, i sent you something off topic to this. but wanted your input
  7. Mike97gt

    Mike97gt it doe snot Mod Dude Founding Member

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    well then your 70mm ffrp throttle body is a different casting than jstreets, go look at the differences in the pictures. jstreets has a ridge right before the throttle blade and on yours I can see the remains of the the ridge in the areas that would be difficult to get too while porting.
  8. BlackenedSVT

    BlackenedSVT Active Member

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    OH YEAH!!! With the T/B hole JB Welded closed, and my T/B set screw adjusted to have the T/B Blade fully closed but not sticking, i just installed the 70mm T/B with my ported plenum and that puppy is RUNNING!!!!!

    Installed and started her up, and shes idling at 900 RPM right now!! I'll let her warm up for 15 min then go outside and shut her off, and back on and hopefully everything will be copesetic.

    Dont want to count my chickens just yet, but looks like i got it to work. Thanks for everyones help. Its been real! :) :SNSign: :D :nice: :flag:


    And finally: :cheers:

    Now that i got some extra ponies and finally got this thing workin....only one thing left to do....take her out for the official SOTP dyno and find that damn camaro in my town heheheh
  9. BlackenedSVT

    BlackenedSVT Active Member

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    Ok another update.

    The car currently runs good (haven't driven her yet though, currently blocked in my driveway). But i think that it idles a BIT low. She idles now at 750rpm almost exactly. Before i did this mod i think she idled around 850ish.

    I tried moving the set-screw with the car running and i can hear the idle adjusting, and i raised the idle to 800 and then 900 RPM, but when i did that the RPMs would hang again due to the air bypassing the t/b blade.

    Sooooo i will drive it around like this for a while, see how she does. I dont think a low idle can hurt the car so we'll see.

    Otherwise, maybe i will take the JB weld off the T/B blade now that i found the hanging RPM problem, and see if that gives me the correct idle WITHOUT the hanging RPMS...we'll have to see. Becasue i think that hole will ALSO make the rpms hang.

    WHATEVER THOUGH!! i'm happy for now!
  10. '03GTinFLA

    '03GTinFLA Member

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    Glad to see you got that figured out.
  11. jstreet0204

    jstreet0204 Active Member

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    Glad you got it idled down. If you haven't already, check the tps voltage one more time to get it around .98
  12. BlackenedSVT

    BlackenedSVT Active Member

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    TPS volatage is still at .98v. And it idles at 750rpm.

    Anything wrong with it idleing a tiny bit low? Car sure is quiet now, even with the slp lol (at idle anyway) :D
  13. jstreet0204

    jstreet0204 Active Member

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    Unless you've had it changed in the tune. Stock idle is 705 rpm. At least that is what the stuck settings were on my 99. So you ar fine. Looks like you got it worked out.
  14. BlackenedSVT

    BlackenedSVT Active Member

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    yeah i dont have a tune, so i guess its fine. I just thought i remember the idle beeing a tiny bit higher before i started all this. Like @ 850rpm or something. Maybe i was wrong :shrug:
  15. Mike97gt

    Mike97gt it doe snot Mod Dude Founding Member

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    get the jb weld off there. now that you have the throttle blade flush you don't need that hole pluged.
  16. BlackenedSVT

    BlackenedSVT Active Member

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    Why bother? the car is running good for now :shrug:

    What if i take it off and the rpms hang again, then i'll have to do that all over. If its not broken dont fix it right? So whats so important about the small t/b blade hole? :shrug:
  17. SLY GT

    SLY GT New Member

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    His bigest problem is.... HE DOESN'T LISTEN! OPEN THE F@#KIN HOLE UP!!!!!!!!!!! :bang: :bang: :bang:
  18. jstreet0204

    jstreet0204 Active Member

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    I would take it off also. The hole is supposed to be there, and the idea is to get everything back to the way it is supposed to be. If you start jerry rigging things here and there, it make things difficult to trouble shoot when you have a problem later.

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