You can remove the plugs then put a torque wrench on the crank damper bolt and see how much torque it takes to turn it over. If it is more than around 20 lbs, I would probably remove the oil pan and loosen the rod bolts a little to see if that helps and if not do the same to the crank mains. If it turns over easier after loosening either of these I would tear it apart and fix it or the bearings will likely quickly turn into shrapnel.
Another thing that can cause a tight engine is a rear main rope seal but it is almost unheard of for anyone to use these.
Using a distributor or priming tool is obviously good if have one, however, if you don't, you can use a medium to long 1/4” drive socket and extension. Make sure they snap together reasonably well then tape them together with high quality masking tape. Put a little oil in the socket. If it goes on the oil pump drive easily without any force, it will be impossible for it to get stuck.
Use a big 1/2 drill and just clamp the end of the extension in the jaws. If you have a good extension like a snap on you might not want to use it because it might scratch the end you out in the drill.
Spin the drill for 20 seconds, then rotate engine 180 degrees and drill for 10 seconds then rotate and drill 3 more times. This will fill all your lifters so it will start easier and run better as soon as it starts.
Adjust the valves first before priming.
Plug the dist vac adv, remove all but number 1 plug wire and have someone turn the engine over while you set the timing to 10 degrees btdc with a timing lite.
