'New car feel' - susp. question

[Sudz]

Good mornin',

I'm wondering, w/all the discussion back and forth about negative wedge kits, tubular control arms, lowering kits, etc. etc., when I go to rebuild my suspension, all I really want to build is a car that provides a nice, tight feel on the street. I don't imagine it'll do any road racing. I may do some straight line racing from time to time, but not often. For that type of driving, will the stock style control arms be sufficient? Is power steering required for a 'tight feel' on the street?

I do plan on lowering it a bit - prolly just one inch, nothin' extreme.

What other factors do I need to consider to achieve that feel?

Thanks for any input,
Sudzy

 

[LMan]

For simplicitys sake, I recc you buy a 'package' suspension kit from one of the M vendors like Mustangs Plus, NPD, CJ Pony, etc. It will have most/all of the commonly replaced parts in it, they all work together, and you get it over with at one time.

I used the $479 'big' kit from Mustangs Plus, 620 front springs, stock rears, 1" front sway, rear sway, and KYBs. Ive been satisfied with it so far.

Stock style control arms will be fine for you.


A stock-style pwoer steering setup will never give a 'tight' feel - ppl often convert to manual from PS in order to get more road feel (as I did). There are rack n pinion setups available, but they are costly, some vendors are apparently about to go bankrupt, and others are having problems getting their product to work with common FL headers. Rebuilt stock steering will certainly help a worn-out, 40 year old system but will never equate to modern-day steering, so dont get your hopes too high.

Personally, Im going to wait until the R&P vendor 'storm' blows over and get a R&P sometime in the future.

 

[66 BLAKE 96]

You should be fine going with stock-style control arms. I would consider investing in some poly-graphite bushings to give you that tight feel without the squeeking and punishing ride associated with Polyurethane. You should also consider lowering the upper control arm.

 

[John Z]

By new car feel do you mean:
a) feels like a current mustang? Requires extensive modification - there has been about 40 years of technology development since the mustang was designed.

b) feels like it did when it left the factory? Can be achieved with stock replacement parts. You get better feel with manual steering. The original power steering uses a lot of boost and reduces feel.

c) between a and b - Upgrade components - stiffer springs, better shocks, high performance bushings.

Let us know which direction you are interested in for more specific recommendations.

 

[Sudz]

Cool - great suggestions. I just don't want it to be sloppy like rowin' an 8 foot boat in three foot waves, ya' know? I don't want to be drifting, and have to make contstant adjustments so I can stay between the lines. When I nudge the wheel, I'd like to feel the car moving with it, ya' know?

I don't expect it to handle like a modern mustang - that would be out of my budget, unfortunately. It sounds like the flaming river box, and a susp. kit should provide a good enough ride.

Tim

 

[66 BLAKE 96]

I don't want to be drifting, and have to make contstant adjustments so I can stay between the lines. When I nudge the wheel, I'd like to feel the car moving with it, ya' know?

This is going to be a steering issue as much as a suspension issuue. The steering should be inspected to make sure nothing is worn. Manual steering system replacement will run somewhere around $300, not counting the steering box itself. Power steering is considerably more.

 

[DarkBuddha]

For the kind of steering responsiveness you're talking about, it sounds like you really want the feel of a rack&pinion type setup. These are typically kinda pricey, starting around $1000. Original style systems are actually not that bad, but do always have a touch of play in them, even when new. However, if you rebuild it correctly, it should perform pretty well, and you shouldn't need to constantly correct or oversteer at all. However, by the time you do a complete rebuild (especially if its power steering) and maybe add a new Flaming River steering box, you can be into it for $800 or more... at that point, a rack&pinion seems a pretty fair deal.

Hope this helps...

 

[Sudz]

Hope this helps...

More food for thought...thanks all

Another thought - these control arms and anti roll bars, and springs are going to be almost 40 years old...is there any hope of recovering these, or, in the interest of safety and good handling, should I just put 'em out to pasture, and use them as painting or metal fab practice pieces?

 

[65and68Stang]

My '68 fastback has the Mustangs Plus Grab-A-Trak setup and it is great. Very good ride, that handles well but doesn't vibrate your fillings loose. Mine has the 620 1" drop coils up front (Shelby drop too) and the 4 1/2 leafs on back. I am very satisfied with the way it handles.

For steering, I've got a new Flaming River steering box, but I also have the power-assist steering (which is a bit squirelly).

Also, I've got the TCP subframes.

C'ya!

Kelton

 

[Sudz]

You folks with the 620's up front, will those handle 289's-351's efficiently?

 

[65and68Stang]

You folks with the 620's up front, will those handle 289's-351's efficiently?

Yes, I have a 351W and the 620s worked fine. In fact, I got the 1" poly insulator pads and it sits just a bit higher than I would like...will probably take them out for the standard poly pads after a couple of months when I'm sure there won't be any settling.

C'ya!

Kelton

 

[ashford]

im in the process of "grafting" a mustang 2 suspension into my falcon. as i understand the framework on the falcon is the same as the mustang(for some reason theres less room between the shock towers) then i can get rid of those dam shock towers and get some headers in there, have a more modern ride, power steering etc. there is a place that prefabricates the crossmember for the mustang for $300 add rack control arms sway bar and your ready. i just got the whole thing off a mustang 2 for $100 bought new wear parts and special rotors from speedway motors.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/
http://www.stuart.iit.edu/students/2112/restoration/M2frontend.htm
http://www.autoworks.cc/mustang_2_in_your_front_end_65-70.htm

 

[NorCal66]

Another thought - these control arms and anti roll bars, and springs are going to be almost 40 years old...is there any hope of recovering these, or, in the interest of safety and good handling, should I just put 'em out to pasture, and use them as painting or metal fab practice pieces?

If they are stock...there's no hope for recovery. Springs just get worn out, nothin can be done to fix em. The control arms could be alright...I've still got my stock ones in there, but according to the guy that aligned them, I might be needing to replace them in the next couple years.
You'll be very happy with a new/stiffer spring/shock setup