New here. Questions about my stang.

[tygr1]

Hey kids, long time FORD fanatic, just picked up my 6th Mustang. It's an 89 LX 5.0. I've had everything from a 68 GT350 to a 98 Cobra, but this is my first 5.0.

I'm 51 years old and this is a 'project' car for me. Traded an old F250 straight up for it. Pretty straight, needs some restoration work.

My first question involves the supposedly new (rebuilt) alternator. The alt light comes on at 3000 rpm and stays on. Admittedly I haven't put my VOM on it yet, but are their any inherent issues with the stock alternotors or might I just have a bad one?

Any advice\opinions would be greatly appreciated.

Also haven't jacked the car up yet, what is the likely rear gear ratio? What are the chances of an LX having a stock traction-loc installed?

 

[TheUser]

If you suspect the alternator, the best thing would be to pull the alternator, take it to autozone and get it tested. Alternators do go bad, especially on a car this age, but it's not something I'm always replacing. You could get the brushes and rebuild it yourself -- if that's the problem -- for about $10-15 I believe, but if it's already been rebuilt, I don't see that being the problem. I can't think of why the battery light would come on over 3000 rpm, but not under?

All 5.0's had a stock limited slip differential in the 8.8" rear end. There's no telling what the rear end ratio is at this point. They're often modified. A stock 5 speed would most likely have 2.73's or an auto would have 3.08's or maybe 3.27's. Other than that, there are plenty of aftermarket rear gear ratios - obviously. 3.55's and 3.73's are popular and some go 4.10's. I'm sure you know to jack up the rear end, spin the tire one full rotation and count how many times the driveshaft turns to find your gear ratio.

Good luck. Enjoy your 5.0

 

[bobbyd]

If you suspect the alternator, the best thing would be to pull the alternator, take it to autozone and get it tested. Alternators do go bad, especially on a car this age, but it's not something I'm always replacing. You could get the brushes and rebuild it yourself -- if that's the problem -- for about $10-15 I believe, but if it's already been rebuilt, I don't see that being the problem. I can't think of why the battery light would come on over 3000 rpm, but not under?

All 5.0's had a stock limited slip differential in the 8.8" rear end. There's no telling what the rear end ratio is at this point. They're often modified. A stock 5 speed would most likely have 2.73's or an auto would have 3.08's or maybe 3.27's. Other than that, there are plenty of aftermarket rear gear ratios - obviously. 3.55's and 3.73's are popular and some go 4.10's. I'm sure you know to jack up the rear end, spin the tire one full rotation and count how many times the driveshaft turns to find your gear ratio.

Good luck. Enjoy your 5.0

hey I think you meant autos would have 2.73s and 5 speeds would have 3.08's or 3.27's?

mine is a auto and it has 2.73's

 

[cenok is family]

2.73's were standard in all 5.0's. 3.08's were a 5 speed option (for GT's only i think?) and 3.27's were an option for AOD's. my friend's LX coupe came factory AOD with 2.73's, my old t top GT was factory 5 speed with 3.08's, the donor AOD GT for my 4 cyl conversion had 3.27's, and my current GT was factory 5 speed with 2.73's (4.10's now though). hope that helps

 

[jammer84_03]

i would do the cheap 3g upgrade to the alt. very cost effective and well worth the easy trouble. its under the useful thread index at the top of the tech page

 

[jammer84_03]

and another quick one... go to mustanggt.org and use the decoder for what you have in the rear. alot cleaner way of doing things