All those entry level heads are basically the same casting with minor tweaks to the port work. It will probably use stock length pushrods. You can check them once you have them installed.
Kurt
Kurt
new short block on the way
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Not sure about the rockers. Don't automatically assume that more lift is going to yield more power. The heads look nice. All those entry level heads are 20 degree heads.
Kurt
Kurt
Zero Signal
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I would imagine a 1.6 rocker would be the right rocker for those. Too much and you may end up with more issues than power (if you have PV clearance and enough spring for it in the first place)
The early model of the systemax heads where 17 deg which would crap out with in the first 10,000. They would start burning mass amounts of oil like 2 quarts a week so thats why i say that. As for the cam i was just wondering cuz the stage 1 cam seems a lil on the small side but people say that its a pretty good cam.
oh and im thinking im going to change my intake manifold choice to trick flow setup.
oh and im thinking im going to change my intake manifold choice to trick flow setup.
While I can not say anything negative about those Holley heads, I will say you made an excellent choice over the E-streets. Not to hijack your thread or anything, here is my results from those heads, particularly with the valvetrain. WARNING: Edelbrock E-Street Heads - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum The casting of the E-streets are a bit rough; but the flow numbers are comparable with AFR 165's, TW 170cc, etc.
As for which cam would suit you best, I personally would not run the TFS-1 cam. I ran it in my 302(now in my 331) and it was one lazy cam down low. It sounded nice, but anything below 2500rpm and the car was a bit weak. Luckily I had 4.10's to remedy that a bit. But one cam I really like is the Comp XE264HR. Great cam! It is slightly milder than the 270HR, but helps keep torque down low. It is fairly tame and worked well the the computer. One thing to note was the torque peak. With the E-streets and Comp cam, my 306 made peak 322rwtrq@3800rpm. For comparison, my other 95(AODE though) with TW heads and TFS-1 cam made 311rwtrq@4000rpm. Both set-ups made peak power at 5300rpm. The one thing the TFS-1 cam has going for it is price. But I would personally look at a Comp Cam or Lunati over the TFS-1. It's not a bad cam; there are just better ones out there. I do have a Comp XE270HR cam if you want it. I bought it from a guy in July to run in my 306(but went with the 264hr). He put about 5,000 miles on it before upgrading-he liked it though $130 shipped!
Rockers: 1.6 Harland Sharp or Scorpion. Stay away from the el-cheapo Proforms. They are small, noisy and cheaply made.
Like everyone has said, it would be wise to check for pushrod length. Chances are, the rods will be a 6.27(unless you have the TF heads or one with the canted valves, which the Holley's might be).
Again sorry to rant!
As for which cam would suit you best, I personally would not run the TFS-1 cam. I ran it in my 302(now in my 331) and it was one lazy cam down low. It sounded nice, but anything below 2500rpm and the car was a bit weak. Luckily I had 4.10's to remedy that a bit. But one cam I really like is the Comp XE264HR. Great cam! It is slightly milder than the 270HR, but helps keep torque down low. It is fairly tame and worked well the the computer. One thing to note was the torque peak. With the E-streets and Comp cam, my 306 made peak 322rwtrq@3800rpm. For comparison, my other 95(AODE though) with TW heads and TFS-1 cam made 311rwtrq@4000rpm. Both set-ups made peak power at 5300rpm. The one thing the TFS-1 cam has going for it is price. But I would personally look at a Comp Cam or Lunati over the TFS-1. It's not a bad cam; there are just better ones out there. I do have a Comp XE270HR cam if you want it. I bought it from a guy in July to run in my 306(but went with the 264hr). He put about 5,000 miles on it before upgrading-he liked it though $130 shipped!
Rockers: 1.6 Harland Sharp or Scorpion. Stay away from the el-cheapo Proforms. They are small, noisy and cheaply made.
Like everyone has said, it would be wise to check for pushrod length. Chances are, the rods will be a 6.27(unless you have the TF heads or one with the canted valves, which the Holley's might be).
Again sorry to rant!
Just got a quick titbit of information on those Holley Heads while looking through Corral. Woody of Ford Strokers says that the valve guides on them are junk, and that's why the burn oil. Valve guides are inexpensive, and if they are as bad as he says they are, this is a good time to change them. I trust Woody's expertise.
Kurt
Kurt
well they are completly rebuilt with good stuff. Oh and good news I took them to the machine shop today the guy had them for 3 hrs or so. He said they where a very nice set of heads and he could not find a single thing wrong with them.
That was a huge relief.
Kurt thanks for the info as always.
That was a huge relief.Kurt thanks for the info as always.
That would be the short dowel...all late model Fords use the short. I'd gently set the pin in with the cam in place.
Make sure you check the cam end play once installed...its .004 -.008 installed. Install the thrust plate & gear, no chain and TQ to spec then use a dial indicator to check the play...very important. You can TQ the thrust plate and gear and maybe feel the cam is hard to turn...a sign it's outta spec. I had to mill a .001 or .002 off my thrust plate to get it in spec.
Make sure you check the cam end play once installed...its .004 -.008 installed. Install the thrust plate & gear, no chain and TQ to spec then use a dial indicator to check the play...very important. You can TQ the thrust plate and gear and maybe feel the cam is hard to turn...a sign it's outta spec. I had to mill a .001 or .002 off my thrust plate to get it in spec.
