New to Nitrous...Need Some Pointers...!

[Auto Reverse]

I just installed my Zex "Dry" kit on my 331 Stroker motor. I have a question about plugs and timing. Is the Autolite 3923 a cold enough plug for the 125 shot? Also, if I'm at 18* timing on motor, is 6* enough to pull out on spray?

Thanks in advance for the help.

 

[bluevenom867]

Yea,thous plug should be alright.

Pull 5-6* should be alright.

What gap you run them at?

 

[Auto Reverse]

Gap, I forgot to ask...I was thinking 30 - 40 thousandths. What should it be?

 

[bluevenom867]

Gap, I forgot to ask...I was thinking 30 - 40 thousandths. What should it be?

Try .032,I dont think you would have any problems with that.

 

[lxwants12's]

.035 - .038..plugs are good and timing should be fine....ill be spraying 100 shot wet kit with 347 and ill be running 11 - 12*...and rpm window switch on 3k off 6k....should consider the rpm switch if u dotn have it already

 

[Auto Reverse]

Cool...thanks guys...this friggin' car is going to fly...!

 

[bluevenom867]

Hey,I was up in Buffalo Feb. (my uncle was getting married)...

Lol,its cold up there...

Try it out and if you like it save up for a bottle heater,it will pick you up a few more hp from your kit.

 

[lxwants12's]

hey blue venom....r u running an electrical n20 gauge?

 

[Auto Reverse]

Yeah, February is especially cold up here...bottle heater is in future plans.

It's 70* now and I'm stcuk at work. WTF...! I just want to play with my car.

 

[bluevenom867]

hey blue venom....r u running an electrical n20 gauge?

No,a mech nitrous gauge.

I got one in line after our "Y" fitting (witch connects our two bottles,in the hatch area) and a outside mount Autometer Phantom gauge (infront of the cowl panel),that runs off a T in between the main feed line and the solinoids.

I dont really like the electric gauges,a bottle heater is enough wiring to have around the bottle area.

 

[lxwants12's]

i hear ya about the wiring..its just i needed and electrical cause im mounting it inside

 

[bluevenom867]

The only mech gauge I wouldnt mount in the car would be a fuel gauge.

 

[Auto Reverse]

Okay, I also got the MSD Digital 6 since my last post. Last night I put the new plugs in, gapped at .35 and pulled 2* out when I turn the nitrous arming switch on. Problem is, I can feel the difference between running with the timing retarded on the spray.

My question is, do I need to pull any timing out on a 75 shot? When I ran at 18* advanced I did not hear any detonation or pinging. The car car just friggin' moved...!

 

[bluevenom867]

Okay, I also got the MSD Digital 6 since my last post. Last night I put the new plugs in, gapped at .35 and pulled 2* out when I turn the nitrous arming switch on. Problem is, I can feel the difference between running with the timing retarded on the spray.

My question is, do I need to pull any timing out on a 75 shot? When I ran at 18* advanced I did not hear any detonation or pinging. The car car just friggin' moved...!

The thing is,is that on the juice you might make more power with less timing,even if your not detonating because the nitrous in crease the burn rate.

This is an EFI motor?

Cause if it is,then I think that 18* is a little high for initial timing anyways.

Also,if its a stock distributor i believe the cruv isnt adjustable and is preset to ad only a certian amount.

Try seeing what your timing is at 3500rpms (thats total timing).For a 75* you wil lprobable want about 34* total.

Or,if you motor likes the high timing n/a then you should get a retard box so that when you activate the nitrous is automaticly pulls the correct amount of timing.

 

[bluevenom867]

Hey Auto Reverse I just realized that your Digi 6 has a built in retard.Just hook that up the pink wire from your Digi 6 to the nitrous system (most likely on the micro switch,there sould be another post for a +12 volt wire that activate with the solinoids) and set the retard on the baox.

 

[Auto Reverse]

Yes, EFI, MSD distributor, ignition coil and Digital 6. I already set the Digital 6 to pull 2* out when I hit the arming switch.

Also, I think total timing is set at 22*, not sure, I'll find out tonight.

 

[bluevenom867]

Yes, EFI, MSD distributor, ignition coil and Digital 6. I already set the Digital 6 to pull 2* out when I hit the arming switch.

Also, I think total timing is set at 22*, not sure, I'll find out tonight.

Well 22* TOTAL timing is extremly low....

If thats the case no wonder you feel alot more power with timing increased.

Set total timing to 34* for 75hp shot,and the pull 2* for every 50hp after that.Once you get it on a dyno or a good a/f ratio meter then you can play around with timnig and fp.

 

[Auto Reverse]

Bluevenom867, first, thanks for your help...I guess I'm a little confused on the timing. With the spout out the timing is between 16-17*, with the spout in it bounces around a lot at 20-24*. Do you know why?

 

[bluevenom867]

Bluevenom867, first, thanks for your help...I guess I'm a little confused on the timing. With the spout out the timing is between 16-17*, with the spout in it bounces around a lot at 20-24*. Do you know why?

Im not to familiar with what effect the SPOUT has,Im guessing its how the comp adds timing.

Hook up your light,and get a buddy over and have them revv the car up to 3500rpm with spout in an see what the timing is at.

Remember that then discountect the SPOUT and see what the timnig is just idling.Minus the no SPOUT idle timing from the SPOUT full advanced timing.That should be your total amount of advance after initial timing.

If this is wrong someone else correct me,I havent delt with EFI in a little while,lol.

 

[jjd975]

Theres nothing wrong 18* initial. Thats what I run with my aluminum heads. Spout out.

Pull out 5* for the 125 and run 93 octane. I have done that for years.

Try a .035-.040 gap. I run a .038 with stock ignition and Autolite 3924s.

Get a bottle heater. Not for HP, but so you can be consistant with your tune. Find a good bottle pressure ( I like 1000 psi) and run that pressure EVERY time you spray.