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DIYautotune.com has even cheaper options if your willing to build the ecu yourself. I'm talking as little as 250$$$. the link i sent you is for an ecu that is completely encased.. ie. waterproof.

that means you can mount the ecu in the engine bay or fenderwell [behind the splashguard] and keep all your wiring mess out of the car. The only items this needs to run an engine are as follows..

-TPS signal
-ECT signal [engine coolant temp]
-ACT signal [air charge temp]
-Tach signal [wiring up the distributor] or if you want you can get rid of it and use an EDIS system from an explorer [coil packs no distributor]
-Injectors.
-iac motor [not necessary but controls idle]

this means the rest of the harness can be done away with, unless your running ac then i would leave the connectors for the compressor and pressure switches.

if you ever make a change to the engine, upgraded heads, boost of some kind, new intake.... there is no need to go pay for a tune to get the car to run right because you can just plug in your laptop and make the changes yourself.

oh and this makes a wire tuck much simpler.
 
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DIYautotune.com has even cheaper options if your willing to build the ecu yourself. I'm talking as little as 250$$$. the link i sent you is for an ecu that is completely encased.. ie. waterproof.

that means you can mount the ecu in the engine bay or fenderwell [behind the splashguard] and keep all your wiring mess out of the car. The only items this needs to run an engine are as follows..

-TPS signal
-ECT signal [engine coolant temp]
-ACT signal [air charge temp]
-Tach signal [wiring up the distributor] or if you want you can get rid of it and use an EDIS system from an explorer [coil packs no distributor]
-Injectors.
-iac motor [not necessary but controls idle]

this means the rest of the harness can be done away with, unless your running ac then i would leave the connectors for the compressor and pressure switches.

if you ever make a change to the engine, upgraded heads, boost of some kind, new intake.... there is no need to go pay for a tune to get the car to run right because you can just plug in your laptop and make the changes yourself.

oh and this makes a wire tuck much simpler.

You forgot the goats and chicken bones...
 
Voodoo magic happens after the system is installed. Then I will begin training another shaman

I guess I'm going to have to enroll in class eventually. I'm wondering if I ditch my rpm II intake and go to a single plane/elbow if I'll need to make changes. Thoughts?
 
without further derailment of this thread we should move this talk to either your thread or the TS help thread..... but until then.

i did notice some leaning out of my AFR at idle range and the AFR in boost seems to need some tweeking, however the "peakiness" of the cobra intake at around 2600rpm has been smoothed the car revs much faster thru the powerband.... nothing that autotune cant handle on its own.
 
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The T4M0 came from a 94-95 Mustang. The 94-95 Mustang's electrical system included a LOT more components than the 86-93 Mustangs. It did not lend itself to being intergrated into a different vehicle because of the increased complexity.

How good are your electrical abilities? Can you design, build and troubleshoot simple electrical systems?
Ok i finally found a stock harness
 
Ok so i finally found a stock harness. My question now is are there any diagrams or websites that show what i need to remove or what i need to keep to retro fit this motor into my 1962 Falcon. I've searched online but haven't found much.


Thanks