new with custom suspension

need some raw data first. like many other aftermarket companies, it may look nice but not work as well. What is the benefit of this kit over others, except that you can build it yourself? The above mentioned items, camber curve, caster, ackerman, roll center, bumpsteer (also mention your steering combo) would be good info so overzealous mustangers don't run in blind. I also take it you measured the stock stuff too for comparison?
 
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since i hav to make this quick......

Yes. HAHA.

i have all the data, stock and my design (i need a name for my stuff)

steering is stock but i will be designing my own rack set up.

But my advantage over other is simply the adjsutabilty. since i want my car for drag autoX and street. i built a system that could be adjusted to do all three very well. I guess that all theory right now since i dont have track time yet.

but the whole sytem is adjustable:

adjustable length control arms, upper and lower. this allows almost any caster/camber you could want. also the UCA is lowered 1.75" this is more than shelby or TCP. this gives more camber gain=good. i will work on compiling all the data and put it into a computer friendly way to look at it.
 
i have all the data, stock and my design (i need a name for my stuff)

I like the screen name you chose. Although, it seems too drag race specific. Bored this afternoon, so incorporated that...
 

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hey guys,

I just got back from a week work-cation. I mean business trip.

i will start compiling the data, but i got married three weeks ago so who knows if whe will let me work on the car.
 
done with all calculations. camber curves and all. ask me if you want to see something and i can attach a screen shot.

camber gain is -0.63* per inch of compression. roll center at 2.59"

also if interested i can compare this with the shelby drop.

i also ran the numbers for the 3link rear im going to build. 146% anitsquat
 
so i compared these numbers to stock ford falcon, same as mustang suspension.

camber gain is .24* this is in the wrong ddirection the top of the wheel would move out under compression

the roll center is -1.5" this is below the ground not the best either.


now i did the same calculations with the shelby 1" drop of the UCA

camber gain of -.26* and a roll center of .90"
 
status update.

I put in a 9" with 4.11 gears. I lowered the back three inches and i have a 245 tire on a 16" rim on all four corners.
 

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yep, good eye. I stole them off my 95 to see if they fit. and they do. with a 1/2" spacer. you can see my 95 in the background it has my centerlines from my falcon on it.
 
I'm curious what you've got planned for your 3-link. Are you going to retain the back seat or tie into a cage in the car?

Planning on using a sprung upper link or a solid one?

Can't speak for drag use, but a sprung upper works wonders on the autocross course. May be a bit noisy for street use though. Also takes up a lot of space...
 
I'm curious what you've got planned for your 3-link. Are you going to retain the back seat or tie into a cage in the car?

Planning on using a sprung upper link or a solid one?

Can't speak for drag use, but a sprung upper works wonders on the autocross course. May be a bit noisy for street use though. Also takes up a lot of space...


i willnot go into the rear seat. It will be attached to the frame and subframe. I have considered the spring type. But i think the solid will be best for my application. The third link will be 14" long and be adjustable from horizontal to a two inch drop in the front this will give me a range of 50 to 150 percent antisquat. I also may make a decoupled torque arm using a slider upper link and basically a long traction bar as a torque arm. This would be the best of both worlds. As much anti squat as i want with limited brake hop.








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I haven't done the calculations for mine yet because I'm not sure where to put the mounting point yet. And I still need to find the CG height which I should be able to find out once Rich's car is running again.

I think I'd make it decoupled as well with an arm that length also......and if it's decoupled, you could make the arm length adjustable pretty easily.
 
I'd be down for a fifty as well, or whatever sum it ends up being.

But I thought that the 1.75" drop lead to too short a FVSA ?
I seem to recall reading that somewhere.

Has anyone out there gone from the shelby drop to a negative wedge (or whatever method to avoid ball joint bind) and the 1.75" drop? And if so, did you find improvement with it?
It may be that the FVSA is acceptable, or maybe the 1.75" drop makes the suspension work better regardless of a less than ideal FVSA.