Ok, heres the dilema...i own a '67 and a '69 but do to rising gas prices and the constant upkeep of wear and tear i was forced to park them and keep them as weekend cars and what not...so i just bought a 04 v6 do to the better gas milage and all that jazz...but now i'm getting ragged on by my buds with GT's for the "so called" wussy nature of a v6...i know it has the potential to beat thier stock gt's...but i know nothing of this newer technology...i.e. the computers and efi and all that good stuff since all my previous experience is with carburated engines that are pretty basic. I've already purchased the roush body kit and the side exhaust just cause i love the look...but don't worry...i didn't put any of the roush badges on and i'm not trying to pass it off as one...i just like the look...anyhow with all that said...what should be my next moves...i don't want to go supercharger or turbo or nitrous or any of that stuff cause when i smoke them i don't want them to feel like i'm cheating or anything...any ideas to help shut these guys up would be appreciated...i'm a single E-5 in the military with no bills except for my car so money can flow pretty freely...thanks for the support.
newbie needs help...getting laughed at by GT's
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zincyellow03
New Member
It'd be hard without the supercharger/turbo/nitrous. I can't see how the supercharger/turbo is cheating 
Mostly whatever you do, your gasmilage is going to go down, but not by too much since your going with the sc/t/n. I'd start off with some gears and a traction lock.
Mostly whatever you do, your gasmilage is going to go down, but not by too much since your going with the sc/t/n. I'd start off with some gears and a traction lock.well the gas milage thing kinda went out the window...it's become personal...i can smoke them all day with my other two cars but they're big block v-8's...i just think it'd be a kick in the nuts to get them with a v-6...maybe i could go nitrous because it's an easy install i could do myself...plus i've used it on my other cars so i have some experience with it...i'm just not big on dropping all that cash on a supercharger or turbo system when it's not gonna give me the gains the v-8's get from one...just doesn't seem like you get the bang for your buck where as i can drop around 200 for nitrous...but i don't know...i'm still throwing around ideas...i'm just trying to get close to thier hp range right now without going that route yet...that might be my trump card...haha. Thanks for the advice though...i'll have to try those mods.
First off, what year GTs? 94-98 could be done with just bolt ons, 99+ could take some work.
Well, I would suggest getting a Detroit posi, holds up better from what I hear. http://www.drivetrainspecialists.com/categories/truetrac/products/product-5407.html then get some 3.73 gears for manual or 4.10s for auto if you're going to stay NA. That'll knock off close to half a second off the quarter. You'll probably want atleast a K&N, or similar, filter over like fram to get some good airflow, even if you don't need it all. Also grab some underdrive pulleys, probably 25% UD (I'm iffy on 42% plus I NEED AC). Your also going to need a tune if you do gears, so get an SCT or Diablo tuner, plus they will add power.
If you REALLY want to get into the engine (which I don't think is your intentions, but would put you upto 99+ GT), you could get some ported heads and intake (somewhat bolton, you probably know howto do these), a more aggressive cam (pushrod like the old ones), and maybe a 4.3 stroker kit. You could get some good numbers with all that, Super Six Motorsports got 210 rwhp from an auto 2000 3.8 V6 with their Stage 2 ported heads/cam/intake (H/C/I), which is getting close to a 99+ GT, then the weight difference might get you to keep right there with them. Now a 94-98 GT, you would smoke with H/C/I (~40 hp gain) since they only put out like 30 more hp and weigh about 200-400lbs more.
Well, I would suggest getting a Detroit posi, holds up better from what I hear. http://www.drivetrainspecialists.com/categories/truetrac/products/product-5407.html then get some 3.73 gears for manual or 4.10s for auto if you're going to stay NA. That'll knock off close to half a second off the quarter. You'll probably want atleast a K&N, or similar, filter over like fram to get some good airflow, even if you don't need it all. Also grab some underdrive pulleys, probably 25% UD (I'm iffy on 42% plus I NEED AC). Your also going to need a tune if you do gears, so get an SCT or Diablo tuner, plus they will add power.
If you REALLY want to get into the engine (which I don't think is your intentions, but would put you upto 99+ GT), you could get some ported heads and intake (somewhat bolton, you probably know howto do these), a more aggressive cam (pushrod like the old ones), and maybe a 4.3 stroker kit. You could get some good numbers with all that, Super Six Motorsports got 210 rwhp from an auto 2000 3.8 V6 with their Stage 2 ported heads/cam/intake (H/C/I), which is getting close to a 99+ GT, then the weight difference might get you to keep right there with them. Now a 94-98 GT, you would smoke with H/C/I (~40 hp gain) since they only put out like 30 more hp and weigh about 200-400lbs more.
www.rpm-mustangs.com for 3.8/4.2 engine goodies
3.73's
Detroit truetrac or auburn LSD
Pypes X-pipe header back exhaust system. (Xor H pipes don't add power on the even fire V6 but the X sounds awsome)
RPM's Big Valve ported heads/cam/intakes package
and a nice turbo kit from www.tmaturbo.com and all the fuel/tuning stuff from www.vmptuning.com
you are not cheating by running a poweradder. run what ya brung
the 3.8 ford engine was a modified copy of Buicks stage 1 231 V6 which became the Basis for the Grand National. what ever can be done to a Buick V6 can be done with similar results with the 3.8/4.2 ford.
they are 9 sec capable on stock blocks. they are already running low 10's on stock blocks with forged rods and pistons and stock cranks or offset ground stroker stock cranks
you said money is not much of an issue so why not just turbo it. if emissions laws prohibit a turbo kit (which none out there have a CARB#) get an 11 Psi Procharger Kit with 42lb injectors(or 39 lb cobra injectors) SVT focus fuel pump, SCT big air MAF and custom chip from www.vmptuning.com that will net you close to 300rwhp on a stock engine and about 340 rwhp on a RPM-Mustang H/C/I setup. nothing to sneeze at. if you procharge it then go with 4.10's. no matter what you do DO NOT USE a ford racing T-lok. they have small spyders with little support and cause the only real weak spot in the 7.5 rear. you must use a Detroit truetrac or Auburn to handle the power and can also add a TA performance rear girdle for good measure. don't believe people when they say the 7.5 is weak because it isn't provided you use a Detroit or Auburn
don't be afraid of computer controlled cars. they are real easy to work with and can be tuned to a finer degree than an old carb setup
good luck. if you have any questions PM Me here or over at www.3.8mustang.com i am over there alot as well as alot of other guy's that know their way around the 3.8 ford including a guy running low 10's and putting 700 flywheel HP through his ford V6 @ 28 psi
3.73's
Detroit truetrac or auburn LSD
Pypes X-pipe header back exhaust system. (Xor H pipes don't add power on the even fire V6 but the X sounds awsome)
RPM's Big Valve ported heads/cam/intakes package
and a nice turbo kit from www.tmaturbo.com and all the fuel/tuning stuff from www.vmptuning.com
you are not cheating by running a poweradder. run what ya brung
the 3.8 ford engine was a modified copy of Buicks stage 1 231 V6 which became the Basis for the Grand National. what ever can be done to a Buick V6 can be done with similar results with the 3.8/4.2 ford.
they are 9 sec capable on stock blocks. they are already running low 10's on stock blocks with forged rods and pistons and stock cranks or offset ground stroker stock cranks
you said money is not much of an issue so why not just turbo it. if emissions laws prohibit a turbo kit (which none out there have a CARB#) get an 11 Psi Procharger Kit with 42lb injectors(or 39 lb cobra injectors) SVT focus fuel pump, SCT big air MAF and custom chip from www.vmptuning.com that will net you close to 300rwhp on a stock engine and about 340 rwhp on a RPM-Mustang H/C/I setup. nothing to sneeze at. if you procharge it then go with 4.10's. no matter what you do DO NOT USE a ford racing T-lok. they have small spyders with little support and cause the only real weak spot in the 7.5 rear. you must use a Detroit truetrac or Auburn to handle the power and can also add a TA performance rear girdle for good measure. don't believe people when they say the 7.5 is weak because it isn't provided you use a Detroit or Auburn
don't be afraid of computer controlled cars. they are real easy to work with and can be tuned to a finer degree than an old carb setup
good luck. if you have any questions PM Me here or over at www.3.8mustang.com i am over there alot as well as alot of other guy's that know their way around the 3.8 ford including a guy running low 10's and putting 700 flywheel HP through his ford V6 @ 28 psi
CANTONRACER
Founding Member
Lsredy2kstang
Look, I'm special, dammit
Okay MAC exhaust true dual not that side exhaust choking exhaust that you have! CAI, UD pulley, gears and nitrous and you should be up there with the 99 GT that are slightly modded.
I am pushing nearly 300 RWHP wiht a 100 shot.
I am pushing nearly 300 RWHP wiht a 100 shot.
Lsredy2kstang
Look, I'm special, dammit
Okay MAC exhaust true dual not that side exhaust choking exhaust that you have! CAI, UD pulley, gears and nitrous and you should be up there with the 99 GT that are slightly modded.
I am pushing nearly 300 RWHP wiht a 100 shot.
I am pushing nearly 300 RWHP wiht a 100 shot.
Ported heads and intake with nitrous and you really would be kicking it up.
http://www.supersixmotorsports.com/
You need Adobe to read PDFs, but you most likey have it because most PCs come with it.
http://www.supersixmotorsports.com/
You need Adobe to read PDFs, but you most likey have it because most PCs come with it.
Scott_95GT
New Member
LISTEN. You said money flows pretty good right? All you need is a blower (supporting fuel mods), a true dual exhaust, and a tune. Spend the money ONCE on a good procharger/vortech, and your done. No swapping heads, no stroking to 4.2, no re-filling nitrous tanks.
A blower costs some cash upfront, but it's one-stop shopping. You will retain decent gas milage, great daily drivability, and will smoke stock/mild bolt on GT's all day on a safe amount of boost.
http://www.procharger.com/FORD/ford_auto.shtml
A blower costs some cash upfront, but it's one-stop shopping. You will retain decent gas milage, great daily drivability, and will smoke stock/mild bolt on GT's all day on a safe amount of boost.
http://www.procharger.com/FORD/ford_auto.shtml
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