Nitrous questions...wet or dry?

Cook89Notch

Founding Member
Jan 17, 2002
3,201
8
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Close to Lansing, MI.
What's up guys, I plan on beating the hell out of this 97 that I just bought. I was looking at ZEX, they have a wet kit and a dry kit. Which one would you guys recomend? Pros, cons, which one makes more power, which is "safer"?

Can't wait to hear what you guys think!

~Matt.
 
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How do you like your woman? Wet or dry? I'm pretty sure you prefer it wet ;)

Go with the wet kit. NX is a great kit, though the ZEX kit looks really simple and should work fine :nice:
 
Just some info on Nitrous

Dry Systems

For a dry system, you have a nozzle mounted approximately 6 inches in front of the throttle body. The nozzle injects only nitrous which is fed from the bottle, wherever it may be mounted. The additional fuel is provided through the fuel injectors requiring the computer to be essentially 'tricked' into thinking it has additional air coming in through the manifold (which essentially it does, but not in the way that it believes). The computer in turn tells the injectors to shoot more fuel into the cylinders. The injectors and fuel are under a load during nitrous injection, so it's a good idea to make sure your fuel pump and injectors can handle it. This will depend on what modifications are already done to your car besides the nitrous.


Pros: Does not have fuel flowing through the manifold so there is no worry of a puddling effect and a nitrous backfire in turn.

Cons: Relies on tricking the computer for its fuel supply. Anything that requires tricking the computer for such a vital element as fuel is not an intelligent way to approach anything, much less NITROUS INJECTION. Because the fuel is added through the injectors and the injectors all inject essentially the same amount of fuel and the nitrous is flowing through the manifold that does not apply equal air to all cylinders, the balance of air/fuel is going to be off. It'll be lean on some cylinders and rich on others.


Wet Systems

Wet systems are similar to dry systems. The only thing that is really different is the way the fuel is added to compensate for the nitrous. A wet system has a dual injection nozzle. It injects fuel along with nitrous into the air stream (6 inches in front of the throttle body), and the fuel is carried along with the nitrous into the engine compartment. This requires the dual injection nozzle to be connected to the fuel system. The fuel side of the injection nozzle is connected to a fuel solenoid, which is connected directly to the fuel rails, and the fuel solenoid opens at the same time the nitrous solenoid opens, which is when the system is armed and all conditions are met. You still must make sure you have a strong enough fuel pump to handle the fuel requirements of the nitrous injection.


Pros: Functions independently of the computer. The computer otherwise will not even know anything is going on during nitrous injection because of the way the fuel is supplied. Because the fuel and nitrous are added in together, the nitrous/fuel ratio will be the same, or at least very close to the same on each cylinder because the fuel and nitrous are flowing TOGETHER in the manifold.


Cons: Having fuel flowing through the manifold is not the safest thing in the world. Theoretically if you have enough air intake velocity (injection above 3,000RPM), you should not have to worry about a backfire, but that is not a sure science. If fuel puddles it can create a nitrous backfire that can damage the motor and/or intake system.

Direct Port Systems

Direct Port systems are very different from the dry and wet EFI systems. A direct port system has a nitrous injector and a fuel injector on EVERY cylinder. When the system is armed and fired both the fuel and nitrous injector do their thing. This method is safer because it bypasses the manifold entirely and does not rely on tricking the computer for its fuel supply.

Pros: Efficient. Safe. Powerful. By far the most advanced nitrous system on the market.

Cons: Expensive. By far the most expensive nitrous system on the market.
 
BLACKFANG, YOU ROCK! That has to be one of the best replies I have ever seen!:hail2:

Most of that I already knew, but I do appreciate it! I guess I'm still pondering wich one I should go with. I think a window switch would be a really good idea either way.

Here's a question, if a guy was to launch with the nitrous armed and hitting a low RPM like 1500 would it be "safe" to do with a dry kit? I want it to rip out of the hole and hitting the nitrous that low should make it launch HARD!

What do you'all think?
 
Cook89Notch said:
BLACKFANG, YOU ROCK! That has to be one of the best replies I have ever seen!:hail2:

Most of that I already knew, but I do appreciate it! I guess I'm still pondering wich one I should go with. I think a window switch would be a really good idea either way.

Here's a question, if a guy was to launch with the nitrous armed and hitting a low RPM like 1500 would it be "safe" to do with a dry kit? I want it to rip out of the hole and hitting the nitrous that low should make it launch HARD!

What do you'all think?

Injecting nitrous at 1500 rpm's is suicidial. Even with direct port nitrous, that wouldn't be safe. The earliest you should hit the nitrous is 3000 rpm's, WOT.
 
3000 rpms is still low i would do it at 3500. if you get those DR's then you will be launching around 4200 rpms cause right now with my DR's i bogg launch at 4500 rpms and the n2o barly catches it
 
blackink00 said:
3000 rpms is still low i would do it at 3500. if you get those DR's then you will be launching around 4200 rpms cause right now with my DR's i bogg launch at 4500 rpms and the n2o barly catches it
Alright.... Can you tell me all about you car, how it's set up, what mods it has and what kind of 60fts and 1/4 mile times you're running?

Thanks, Matt.