Northern Radiator & Taurus Fan install

#21
Tim65GT said:
What's better, rubber mounting the radiator, or bolting it solid?
Click to expand...

Doesn't matter. Only time I guess it could is if the radiator is bolted down and the the chassis somehow flexed so bad it cracked the radiator. I have NEVER heard of this happening, though. Usually the windshield cracks or pops out before that, but even then it takes lots of power and grip to get there.
 

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#23
65ShelbyClone said:
Doesn't matter. Only time I guess it could is if the radiator is bolted down and the the chassis somehow flexed so bad it cracked the radiator. I have NEVER heard of this happening, though. Usually the windshield cracks or pops out before that, but even then it takes lots of power and grip to get there.
Click to expand...

This is not exactly true. With an aluminum radiator, the thermal expansion of the metal is quite significant. Over time the constant expanding and contracting can weaken the metal if there are no rubber bushings to allow for some flex. This doesn't always cause a problem but it is significant enough to where preventative measures should be taken if possible. Its not a garaunteed failure but it MAY eventually happen. My radiator is clamped down instead of bolted in so I don't have to worry about it.
 
#25
I mounted the fan to the radiator.

I used the existing mount for the top and made two metal strap type brackets for the bottom.

I was worried about long term effects of vibration, so I slit 3/32 vacuum tubing and hot glued it to the back edges of the fan shroud that have direct contact with the core.

The brackets also have 1/8" rubber pads under them.

Pics:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f315/Tim65GT/Radiator/DSC07762.jpg

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f315/Tim65GT/Radiator/DSC07758.jpg

I was researching the thermal expansion and aluminum does expand more than copper, so I think I'll build some saddle type brackets and sandwich some rubber in there.
 
#30
Tim65GT said:
I got a group of 'em off eBay for dirt cheap. They're just the standard 30/40A Bosch type relay.

New Problem...

I decided to get a '70 Waterpump so the inlet is on the driver side to match the radiator. I looks like it will bolt right up to my existing timing cover, BUT...

It's 1/4" taller! :bang: :bang: :bang:

5521134-1.jpg


The very limited room I had between the crank snout and the fan just got smaller!

AND... I'm going to have to space the Crank, alt and AC out accordingly.

Maybe I can go back to the idea of customizing a radiator crossover hose. :shrug:

Any suggestions...ideas ... what did you guys do? Thanks
Click to expand...

check out Ron Morris Performance, He makes a crossover for this purpose
 
#31
Looks like it turned out well. Have you finished the install yet?
Click to expand...

No, I'm taking my time, only working a couple hours a day.

Yesterday I built the saddle brackets from .070 steel.

I tried to weld them, but I suck at welding, so I put two 10-32 flat head screws in each one. I might reinforce the brackets with another peice of metal on the sides.

The top of the radiator is held in place with two 1/4-20x1 1/2" bolts thru the old horn holes with old rubber shock mounts sandwiched in there. It spaces it from the radiator support just enough so that there is no metal to metal touching.

I have been working around the AC condenser, rec/drier and hoses, since I do not want to evacuate and re-charge the system. That's part of the reason the radiator is sitting about 1/2" off center to the drivers side. The hoses to the condenser go through the rad support just to right of the radiator. The other reason is fan to WP pulley clearance.

Pics:
http://s50.photobucket.com/albums/f315/Tim65GT/Radiator/


Maybe I can go back to the idea of customizing a radiator crossover hose.

Any suggestions...ideas ... what did you guys do? Thanks

check out Ron Morris Performance, He makes a crossover for this purpose
Click to expand...

Thanks, but ... The Ron Morris Item:
http://www.ronmorrisperformance.com/05spec/index.html

... is for the other way around. If you were keeping your stock rad and swapping the inlet side if the WP.

I am keeping the stock Pass side WP inlet location, but am changing the Rad outlet side.
 
#32
Update

Got it running! I have to put the grill and headlight buckets back in before I do a test drive though.

The dual variable fan controller I built had issues. It wouldn't adjust and was turning on/off when it shouldn't. Instead of spending more time messing with it, I got a Hayden 3653 Electric Fan controller for only $18 at Checker. It's only rated for 15 Amps, so I wired a 40A relay with it and am only using the High speed of the Taurus fan. Also it’s the Mechanical type, so it has the probe that’s supposed to mount to the back of the radiator, but I just carefully inserted it between the fins in an area where the fan blades are not.

This time it blew out the 30A fuse instantly, (Strange, because it din't blow with my homemade controller). I have a 12ga fuse link in there temporarily, until I can get a 40A fuse and try that. My battery must have been lower than I thought when I did my original amp measurements.

I had to modify the hood latch support and the AC condenser mounting brackets. It's spaced about a 1/4" from the rad core and the trans cooler sits about 1/4" in front of the condenser.

I would have liked the trans cooler on the pass side, but as I said earlier, I was working around the already functional and charged AC system. So I bent 5/16" hard lines to extend from the old location right up to the B&M supercooler that I positioned for best airflow. I also had to re-position the horns.

I walked down the row of hoses at the parts store and picked out three I thought had the right angles and bends. The two bottom ones are joined by a drain fixture I got from Summit when I ordered the radiator. The top is similar to the stock, but longer, but still not long enough, I had to extend it about 2" using a piece of chrome plated brass. The bottom hose coming out of the radiator has a odd bend. I might have to change it out with something else. The Three hoses were only $35. One SS flex hose was $60 and they only had one length. Maybe another Summit order...

I'd post pics, but Photobucket isn't cooperating right now. They are in the same directory I posted earlier:

http://s50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...65GT/Radiator/
 
#33
Took the stang out for a test drive last night. It hit 180 degrees at a stop light a few blocks away, it got up to 190 before I could pull over, pop the hood and crank the adjustment down until it just clicked on the fan. I got back in and the gauge was droping back down pretty quick. It might take a couple heat up cycles to tweak the setting right at 180.

A real test will be a 110 degree day in traffic with the AC on. I wired in a diode so the fan will engage whenever the AC is on. Also need to test high speed interstate driving to make sure there are no issues.

DSC07798.jpg
 
#37
Iskwezm:
they sell it in 24" or 36" lengths and its easy to cut. I used a stock lower hose on mine, but have the Cool Flex for the upper.
Click to expand...

Thanks, I couldn't find anywhere that says you can cut it. But now that I know I can trim it to length, I might end up getting those. They look good too.

There's the Annual car show at local Hudson's Bar & Grill I'll be attending this Saturday, so my cut up pieced together stuff will have to do.
 
#39
dbfarr
Where did you get the dual v belt pulleys? I could use a set.
Click to expand...

They were on the engine when I got the car. The engine is a '74 block, with '66 heads and some of the front accessories were 65-68. No telling what year or model the pullies came from.

It used to have a single groove alternator pulley, but I got a two groove when I upgraded to the 3G alt. A guy a Checker found it in a box of junk behind the counter.:)

The balancer pulley is a three groove, which worked well when I added the Vintage Air System, 'cause the three groove pulley in the kit had the wrong spacing for the two inner grooves.:mad: (so I sold it on eBay)
 
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