Discussion in '1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-' started by Adam95GT, Mar 31, 2008.
My Ebrake sticks all the time so I only use it when I have to.
My ebrake stops the car i just have to pull it up very high. I thought the general rule of thumb was 4-5 clicks.
220,000 miles sounds like a reasonable time to change them out anyway. Not a bad choice there.
My e-brake works fine too. It stops the car reasonably well. You just have to learn not to use it often. Whenever possible, leave it in gear. Using the e-brake everytime you park the car stretches out the cables.
My ebrake has always worked fine (I've owned the car since new, Oct. '94), but there was a recall on the ebrake mechanism years back. I had it done and it still worked but the handle seemed looser afterwards though.
This recall? Affects all 94-98 Mustangs.
1998 FORD MUSTANG RECALL FOR PARKING BRAKE, CONVENTIONAL PROBLEM
Or did you mean a TSB?
Hmmm maybe ill give ford a call
Yes, it had something to do with the parking brake pawl. They installed some kind of plate over the brake handle mechanism.
The recall just puts a bar over the handle so you can't pull it up too far. If you've had the recall done, and it doesn't work as well now, it's simply because the mechanic forgot to adjust the e-brake afterwards. There is a little screw beside the handle to adjust it.
Yeah, my handle just felt looser after the recall was done, and the release button would rattle while at rest while driving when it didn't before I took it in. The car only has 56k miles on it currently and had about 40k when I had the recall done. I really haven't noticed it in the past 5 years or so because the car is so much louder and idles rougher with the cam and other mods now...lol.
Can i still get this done on my car?
Also the Rear main seal is leaking a little... Im not sure if its worth dropping the trans because no matter how many i install they always seem to leak a bit.
Oil leak = rust prevention!
Ive only done a few only one didnt leak
ill probably fix it later it doesent look too bad.
I've never had a rear main seal leak. Kind of funny considering how it's just kind of loosely pushed in there. When you do a rear main seal on a used crank, don't forget to sandpaper the crank a little bit to get a fresh brake in surface. Other than that, it could be a goobered up area in the main cap or the block where the seal touches.
I never sandpaper the crank... Good news is this one wasnt installed by me so im not to blame.
Safety recalls are issued under the watchful eye of the government and must be done by any owner during the entire life of the car, at no cost to you, either for the service, tax, loaner car, complimentary wash, or any other small print BS fees.
TSBs/updates are another story and usually only free while the car is under its original powertrain warranty.
This is the section of the steering shaft that has the play. Not the rag joint itself, but up top the slip fit that allows it to go in and out. I vote for marking it with a sharpie, pulling the rack down, dropping it out, and welding it super solid. The joint has no play in it. Good balance of cost and effectiveness. Mark the bushings with a sharpie so they go back in the same place.
I think it's that plastic sleeve in there, either fell out when we were doing everything, straight up broke, or is so old and that's where play starts. I can't imagine you finding a 03 shaft for less than what it would cost to weld that one. If a 2003 fits your rack...
Well last night chris and I did some work on the car... We cut apart the exhaust and installed the H section instead of the strait pipes.
DSCF2020.mp4 video by blindfoldedhope - Photobucket
DSCF2021.mp4 video by blindfoldedhope - Photobucket
DSCF2022.mp4 video by blindfoldedhope - Photobucket
Rig to hold in place:
Cut H section to fit:
Installed for max positive:
Brought wheels flush:
Welded up and painted:
Checked for leaks. And Checked trans fluid (full)
DSCF2038.mp4 video by blindfoldedhope - Photobucket
DSCF2039.mp4 video by blindfoldedhope - Photobucket
DSCF2040.mp4 video by blindfoldedhope - Photobucket
DSCF2041.mp4 video by blindfoldedhope - Photobucket
Defiantly evened out the tone after no more pule like sounds.
Picked up the New Windshield (write up soon)
Inspection Result: FAILED
Hydrocarbons to high.... need to be 220
im 16xx at high idle and 10xx at idle... Wide band reads lean so im assuming unburnt fuel.
I think you're probably right about the lean condition leading to the high HC. After all, you are a chemist, right
But, man oh man - almost 8 times the acceptable level at high idle??? That sucks...