Official Polishing Thread. How to's and tips!

Kdubslugga

Active Member
Jun 7, 2003
1,515
4
38
Akron, OH
Well, I for one love to polish aluminum parts for 2 reasons. Its cheap, and it looks killer when it's done. Ive done my own IAC, Belt Tensior, PS Bracket and I gotta say I think I did a great job but, Ive seen some peoples polished items that look the freakin chrome. Now my items look really good, great shine and very reflective but my question is how to I step it up a level to make it look professional? Is it all in the 1st step or what? I always start out with 80 grit. Now mind you I do this by hand, no sandblasting, just hands fingers and a dremel. Im currently working on my master cylinder, Ive got 4 hrs in already and Im still in the 1st step 80 girt smoothing out process. Im trying really hard to make this look as professional as I can because I have a few people who are willing to pay me to do some stuff and I want to do it right. So basically just want to know what you guys do, what kind of tricks or shortcuts have you found, what process works best for you, and just things like that. Feel free to post some pics of things you've polished!!!
 
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I’ve done some polishing over the years and I am a firm believer that if you get started right you’ll be more than pleased with you’re finished piece.
10 years ago I use to start with 80 grit sandpaper and then work my way up to 400 grit sandpaper, then I would move too the Tripoli and White Rouge compounds to do the buffing and polishing to finish the piece, but the more pieces I’ve done over the years the more I hated all that sanding and found out that there was no need to sand ANY part past 220 girt sandpaper.
They’re people that have done some polishing before and believe if you don’t sand a part with at least 2,000 grit sandpaper your part will never shine but just so happens I’m not one of them. WHY because I hate sanding!!! But then again no 2 people do a part the same way.

This may or may not help but this is the method I use now.

I start by removing any heavy powder coating (if there is any) with aircraft paint stripper, if the exterior casting is really rough such as the upper intake I’ll start by hand sanding w/ 80 first; but most pieces I’ll start by hand sanding with 100 grit sandpaper and then move up to 150 or 180 grit and then 220 grit sandpaper, all done by hand. I’ll also say that if there are areas I can’t hand sand with at least 180 grit sandpaper, I’ll use a nylon wheel on the electric drill to do those areas.

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I’ll then move to a Ventilated Flap buffing wheel with Emery compound on an electric drill which does all the work of sanding that sand paper would from 320 through 600 grit sandpaper and probably more.

Emery Compounds main purpose is for heavy-cut on iron, steel, or stainless steel so it take all the scratches out left by the 220 sand paper.

I’ll then I’ll buff with the Tripoli with one Spiral Sewn buffing wheel and polish with White Rouge on a different a Spiral Sewn buffing wheel with an electric drill and I’m done.

Some people say you need a bench grinder to polish a part with and some people say you need a big high speed buffer to polish a part with and I can tell you from my own experience with a big buffer because I had one, those big buffers only turned 3,600 rpm; which my electric drill turns 3,500 rpm and is easier to move around the part and is the reason I chose to use an electric drill to do the buffing and polishing with instead of a big buffer or bench grinder.

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Thats exactly the way i am doing it now almoststock. lol. The same way u did ten years ago, that master cylinder is the same exact one im doing. 93 cobra master cylinder. Im going crazy with the 80 grit right now working all the rough castings out. If it turns out like you ill be happy. Sanding doesnt bother me so maybe ill just go all the way up to 2000. I used to stop at 600 and just used tripoli and white rouge and be done. Maybe ill go a bit higher with the sandpaper. But im really putting some time into this one, gonna try to make it look like yours!
 
I've polished some parts in the past and I've yet to find a clear that doesn't either bubble, turn yellow, or turn hazy after a few months. I haven't tried anything like Zoop Seal yet though.
 
Heres kinda what im talking about, my polishing looks good, but doesnt have that BAM factor! I did the Intake, power steering bracket. Supercharger was already polished. Ive been using a dremel with a buffing wheel, im thinking thats probably why i dont have that "chrome" look. Im gonna try your elec drill and bigger buffing wheel method Almost Stock!
 
Ive moved on to 120 grit on my master cylinder and just for kicks i tried some tripoli on a bench grinder, and wow! This is the step i have been missing! Now obviously im not done or even close I just wanted to see if it made a difference. Cant wait to see what this looks like after I get to 600 grit and some use the final white rouge stage.
 
this may be a stupid question but, what is the tripoli you guys are talking about? I tried to polish my intake elbow but it doesn't have that chrome look either. could you guys maybe post pics of what polishing tools you use.(except sand paper of course)
 
this may be a stupid question but, what is the tripoli you guys are talking about? I tried to polish my intake elbow but it doesn't have that chrome look either. could you guys maybe post pics of what polishing tools you use.(except sand paper of course)

Tripoli is a polishing compound. It is used to buff metal. Tripoli contains a small cutting agent if i remember, gets rid of very small imperfections. And tripoli is applied and cleaned off, then White rouge is used for a "mirror" finish.

★★★ Best Price Eastwood Compound Set Emery Stainless Tripoli Wht Rouge on Sale
 
thanks. I clicked the the link and it says sold out and dont knoow when or if it will be back in stock. At least I know what it is now. so once you have sanded, you apply the compounds to a buffing wheel in a drill to finish up. do you use a different wheel for each compound?
 
good to know where to get it. thanks.
do you use a different wheel for each compound?
Here is another question. I have an intake that I modded to accept injector bungs. I JB welded them into the intake. Would I be able to sand the JB Weld down, solder over it & then polish the intake & soldered areas?
 
Im guessing it will work. I had my coolant rail on the lower intake powder coated and the rail had a real sharp dent in it. My cousin works for Dent Wizard he got about 90 percent of it out. I used solder to fill in the imperfection and then sanded it. Turned out great for me!