Official Thread of Applicable Junkyard parts for Foxes

Discussion in 'Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech' started by 93 teal terror, Jul 17, 2005.

  1. Id like to get a sticky going of parts we can all look for in junkyards. Im always like a kid in a candy store when i go to one and I feel like Id be more effective if I had a list of what I wanted and where to get it from. So lets start a list. gt40-p's, fans, driveshafts, etc. anything is welcome
     
    BurnEmLikeNero likes this.
  2. 94-95 have 70mm mass air instead of 55mm.
     
  3. On a budget? do the junkyard upgrade...

    Gears - 87-88 T-Bird Turbo Coupe rear axle - disc brakes and 3.55 or 3.73 gears in one package for $125-$300. Add another $100-$200 or so to complete the brake upgrade.

    94-95 Mustang GT MAF - $40-$100. It is 70 MM instead of the stock 55 MM on regular stangs built prior to 94. It uses a slip on duct on the side that goes to the throttle body and a 4 bolt flange on the other. You need a $25-$35 flange adapter from Pro-M to fit the stock slip on air ducting that goes to the air box. Wiring plugs right in with no changes. *1

    95-97 Ford Explorer intake manifold & throttle body $150-$300. The intake manifold flows 220 CFM +, much better than stock. Throttle body is 65 MM, bigger than the 60 MM on stock stangs. I got a 96 with EGR passages that match the stock setup, so my smog gear works just like factory. You’ll need a 65 MM EGR spacer & new gaskets for $65-$90 so you have a place to mount the EGR & throttle linkage.

    3G alternator from 94-95 Mustangs or other Ford. $20-$120. A must have to make the electrical system work like it should. You’ll need a 4 gauge power wire and a 125-135 amp fuse to go with it about $15- $30.

    Lincoln MK VIII electric fan -$40-$160. Free up some HP by not having to drive the stock fan. The 3G alternator upgrade is a must have prerequisite before you do the MK VIII fan. You won’t have enough electrical power if you don’t do the 3G upgrade.

    Copied from shawn13

    Aluminum driveshaft from AeroStar:
    It needs to be from a 92-93-94 Aerostar AWD and you will need u-joint part #353 from NAPA. It is supposed to be a bolt up once the U joints are replaced.
     
  4. 2002 and up explorer's have the same 2v engine as stangs but the block is alum. Weight savings
     
  5. 96-99 ish explorer 5.0 u/l intake manifold (runners are longer = more torque)

    ford winstar electric fan

    ford thunderbird rear axle (disc brake mounts)

    theres more but i cant think of them.
     
  6. 96-early 97 have cobra heads. 97+ have gt40p heads. (This should be common knowledge) 95+ lower intake doesn't have the air charge temp sensor. They are out on the air tube. It gives a false reading of cooler air.
     
  7. subscribing...make this a sticky admins...
     
  8. taurus electric fan
    gt40 lower intake off explorers.
    seats from 79-04 cars
     
  9. 87-88 Turbo Coupe Thunderbirds. Automatics have 3.73's and Standards have 3.55's. 8.8 inch rear.
     
  10. Old taurus/sable 3.8l v6 engines have the stock 19lbs injectors as well as the exact same MAF (89'-93' 55mm) meter.

    Also mid 90's taurus/sable had the 3g alternator most conversions are based on from 2g conversion.
     
  11. MAF from mercury cougar
     
  12. Heres some info on the gt40 and p heads from the explorers

    Taken from corral
    "To set the record straight:
    GT-40P replaced the GT-40 in 5.0 Explorers and Mountaineers in early/mid 1997.

    also, if memory serves correctly,
    1.85/1.46 valves in P. 1.85/1.54 for standard GT-40. more efficient exhaust port in the P, therfore smaller valve needed to obtain same flow. therfore, also benefit of higher flow velocity in the P's.

    much smaller pesky emissions bump in the exhaust port with the P's.

    spark plug is rotated outward and moved closer to the piston to place the electrode closer to the center of the chamber (better, more complete burn and reduced emissions). this is why interference is an issue with header install. MAC and FRPP have P-specific shorties.

    runner volumes are very similar.

    no hole in the P exhaust port to turbulence the flow.

    approx 60cc combustion chamber in the P vs approx 65cc in the standard GT-40. your effective compression ratio will increase when you swap out the E7TE heads for the P's.

    P uses the good ol', tried-and-true, 7/16" headbolt.

    and the best news: intake area under curve (flow) is 65.1 cfm for GT-40P, 59.7cfm for standard GT-40, and a paltry 55.1 for E7TE. BTW, 65.1 for GT-40al and 65.7 for GT-40Xal.

    IMO, go with P's!!! At the junkyard, look for 4 bars on the side face to identify P heads. standard GT-40's will say GT."
     
  13. Explorers have 31-spline 8.8's, many with trac-loc and 3.73's or 4.10's. Can't use the entire rear, but you can use the guts if you have 31-spline axles.

    Brian
     
  14. Pretty much any f150 truck with the 8.8 will have at least 3.55 gears .. use this page as a reference .

    http://www.drivetrain.com/Fordtrkratio_posidata.html

    4 banger T5s have a lower 1st and 2nd gear ratio but im not sure how much tourqe they can take .. some people swear they are the exact same thing as the 5.0 T5 but i dont have proof of this.

    Ford 460 efi engines should have 24lb injectors , also the 19lb injectors from the 96+ explorer engine are more efficient they have 4 holes at the bottom instead of one creating a better spray and also can flow a bit more gas with added fuel pressure.
     


  15. yes i'm bringing this back.....what year cougar, and what size are they. do they work with the 19lb injectors.

    most of the answers in here are too vague....need specifics for the not-so-smart-ones like me:nice:
     
  16. bringing this one back to life. Id like some more info on the MAF's like iwashmycar asked, what year cougar? size? 19lbs? and do you need the adapter for it? What other maf's can we use. Thanks
     
  17. See my previous post for more info on the 70 MM MAF that is a simple fit for your HO 5.0.I'm running one, and it works good.
     
  18. Not to mention the SN95 MAF works great. That's what I'm running with no issues at all. The electronics are suppose to be almost identical to a FOX so other than the mount its plug and play.
     
  19. here's a doosy! it's stuff i've put together over the past 2 yrs since i got into mustangs. there maybe a thing or two that is iffy only because when i've actually gone to pull a part from the vehicle it either had a reman upgrade or someone bolted on another oem part from another car. but for the most part it's GOLD! enjoy :nice:

    130 Amp Alternators (Grab Pigtail)
    Mustang 3.8L (94, 95, 96, 97, 98, 99, 00)
    Mustang 5.0L (94, 95)
    Taurus/Sable 3.0L (93, 94, 95, 96, 97, 98, 99) except sho
    Thunderbird/Cougar 3.8L (94, 95, 96, 97) non sc

    Explorer 5.0 HO Intake Manifold
    Upper
    Lower (If it don’t have EGR Port-must mod & drill) (Will need sn95 elbow for TB & EGR)

    Heads
    GT40 93-95 Cobra, 95-Early97 Explorer/Mountaineers 5.0L V8
    (3 Vertical Bars front of head)

    GT40P +97 Explorers/Mountaineers 195cc (Needs BBK Unequal Shorty Headers)
    (4 Vertical Bars front of head) (If need to keep emissions, P heads don’t come w/thermactor air holes drilled into back of head.)

    351W C9AE, D0OE, (Stock 180cc) (Ported 192cc) (Valve & Ported 211cc)
    351W D8OE (Came standard on 79-84 302 mustangs) (Has larger combustion chambers thus lowering compression = good for superchargers, but not good for n/a)

    Front Disc Brakes
    SN95 GT/V6/Cobra: Spindles & Calipers (94-95 only) Get entire assembly – pads, banjo bolts, & brake lines.

    (Option 2: Best Calipers) 99-04 GT/V6/Cobra Calipers: Take entire assembly, Still requires SN94/95 spindles!

    Rear Disc Brakes
    Axles: SN95 V8/V6/Cobra (94-98) Can’t use v6 gears or axle housing, too weak!!! Only use V6 for axles, calipers, & brake lines. Do Not Direct Bolt On!

    If lucky & find 94-98 V8 rear-end, p/u entire rear-end assembly.

    E-Brake Lines & Brake Lines

    Rotors 10”: V8/V6 (94-98) No Cobra’s because their rotors, brackets, & pads are only made specific for Cobra. Rotors too large.

    ((((Don’t need to know cause ain’t using cobra rotors!!! But FYI brackets are specific, if using Cobra rotors need the Cobra bracket. V6/GT rotors need V6/GT brackets.))))

    Calipers 38”: 94-04 V8/V6/Cobra

    Master Cylinder
    Cobra (93)
    SN95 (94, 95, 96, 97, 98) V6 (no cobra/gt, results in soft pedal)

    Brake Booster
    SN95 (94, 95, 97, 98) V6 (no cobra/gt, results in soft pedal)

    Identifying by Valve Cover Bolts
    Windsor—six bolts 429/460—seven bolts Cleveland/Modified—eight bolt

    Electric Fan
    Taurus/Sable 3.8L (88, 89, 90, 91, 92, 93, 94, 95)
    Continental 3.8L (88, 89, 90, 91, 92, 93, 94)
    Lincoln Mark VIII

    Gears & Disc Brakes
    3.73 Thunderbird Turbo AOD (87, 88)
    3.55 Thunderbird Turbo Manual (87, 88)

    73mm Calipers: Phenolic or Steel
    Mark VII: steel (91)
    Lincoln's: (86, 87, 88, 89, 90, 91)
    Crown Victoria (86, 87, 88, 89, 90, 91)
    SVO Mustang Turbo (84, 85, 86)

    302 HO Engine 225hp
    Mark VII 302 HO: Speed Density (87, 88)
    Mark VII 302 HO: MAF (89, 90, 91, 92, 93)

    Fuel Injectors
    19 lbs: Mustang 5.0, Explorer V8, Mark VII 302HO (87, 88, 89, 90, 91, 92, 93)
    24 lbs: Navigator, Cobra, Ford Trucks
    30 lbs: Thunderbird SC (color red)
    36 lbs: Thunderbird SC (color brown)
    42 lbs: Lightening Trucks

    5 Lug Budget Swap Front
    (Cheapest) Mid 80’s Lincoln Continental / 85-91 Mark VII front rotors
    **Please note** I put these on my 89 w/ 99 gt 17" rims and the center cap does not fit even if you pound on the dust cap with a mallet. I heard the smaller 16" rims will fit with center caps but haven't seen one personally.

    (Best) SN95 Front Spindle Assembly

    5 Lug Budget Swap Rear
    Ranger/Bronco II: v4/v6 2.3, 2.8, 2.9L (83-92) 2x Driver-side Axles 29 5/32” long,
    (Do Not use 4.0L parts)

    Aerostar (86-97) 2x Passenger-side Axles (Can be mix match with ranger/bronco II)

    Drums: USE ONLY 9” Ranger/Bronco drums. Always measure drums! (Not 10” Aerostars), Make sure straight axles & drums are good!

    Removal: Vehicle lifted up off all four, put in Neutral! Drain rear-end, then remove cover. While in Neutral rotate rear diff until see Pinion Rod Retaining Bolt. (Bolt runs sideways in the diff) Remove this bolt and slide out Pinion Rod. (Place car in Park or into gear that don’t let diff rotate.) Now push axles inward allowing you to remove C-Clip retainers. With C-Clip removed axle’s side right out. Do Not damage bearings or seals when removing.

    Tools Req: Hammer/Mallet, Deep Sockets, Braker Bar, Ratchet Set,
     
  20. which trucks and engines are the 24 injectors out of?