Official Thread of Applicable Junkyard parts for Foxes

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/86 to /97 Aerostar drums are 9" as are /83 to 92 4 cyl or 3.0 L Rangers and Bronco II's. 4.0 L Rangers came with 10" drums.
If you need a 5 lug spare tire for your conversion, the 5 lug spare from an /86 to /97 Aerostar will fit your fox spare tire space.
 
This really is a cool thread.
Someone should sticky it so it doesn't have to bob up and down the board.

I am still waiting on the confirmation of Crown Vic radiators fitting Fox bodies.

On another note, I am pulling an 88 Mark VII HO 5.0 right now for use in a Fairmont, and I like the look of how everything is coming together fitment wise so far. I think we might even use the rear end (3.27 trac-lock) and front spindles to convert to 5 lugs. I just wish the car wasn't SD...
 
Hey thanks for all the info. I plan on doing many of these up grades to my 86. But I just recently did the driveshaft upgrade and had trouble with the u-joints. I had bought the Napa part 353 just like it says but it didnt fit. I ended up using the standard 1330 u-joint and it fit fine. But I noticed that the drive shaft I got was a Spicer unit and I was wondering if they all are or if someone changed this one before. Thanks again.
 
if your on a budget ALuminum spares from foxes make great skinnies. When you change out the tires use 165/80/15. They are just a little heavier than the welds but way lighter than any stock fox rim. Some 1979 fox mustangs have fiberglass rear bumpers. AOD x members if you are putting in a 3550, tko etc. 4 banger and turbo coupe t5 have lower 1st gears. In my opinion these trannies can take some abuse. Just when you powershift them(like any t5) they tend to break. But dump the clutch at 6 grand on slicks with a stockish car and it should hold
 
This thread got brought back from 2005!! Damn.

I recommend finding 99-04 PBR's with 94+ spindles for your fox. Guys....if you have stock fox brakes, this 5 lug and brake mod is a must! The car stops way better. Looks way better too.

whats PBRs? reason i asked is there is a 99 at the yard. i'm not sure what to take. are you saying i should take the front rotors and calipers? it does have cobra rims on it too will that fit the fox?
 
On a budget? do the junkyard upgrade...

Gears - 87-88 T-Bird Turbo Coupe rear axle - disc brakes and 3.55 or 3.73 gears in one package for $125-$300. Add another $100-$200 or so to complete the brake upgrade.

94-95 Mustang GT MAF - $40-$100. It is 70 MM instead of the stock 55 MM on regular stangs built prior to 94. It uses a slip on duct on the side that goes to the throttle body and a 4 bolt flange on the other. You need a $25-$35 flange adapter from Pro-M to fit the stock slip on air ducting that goes to the air box. Wiring plugs right in with no changes. *1

95-97 Ford Explorer intake manifold & throttle body $150-$300. The intake manifold flows 220 CFM +, much better than stock. Throttle body is 65 MM, bigger than the 60 MM on stock stangs. I got a 96 with EGR passages that match the stock setup, so my smog gear works just like factory. You’ll need a 65 MM EGR spacer & new gaskets for $65-$90 so you have a place to mount the EGR & throttle linkage.


3G alternator from 94-95 Mustangs or other Ford. $20-$120. A must have to make the electrical system work like it should. You’ll need a 4 gauge power wire and a 125-135 amp fuse to go with it about $15- $30.

Lincoln MK VIII electric fan -$40-$160. Free up some HP by not having to drive the stock fan. The 3G alternator upgrade is a must have prerequisite before you do the MK VIII fan. You won’t have enough electrical power if you don’t do the 3G upgrade.

Copied from shawn13

Aluminum driveshaft from AeroStar:
It needs to be from a 92-93-94 Aerostar AWD and you will need u-joint part #353 from NAPA. It is supposed to be a bolt up once the U joints are replaced.

This driveshaft is bolt up wow awesome, what is the length of this driveshaft?
 
I did the aluminum drive shaft from a 1993 AWD Aerostar van. I didn't use the U joint puj 353 from Napa to adapt the aluminum driveshaft to my slip yoke. I simply bought a u joint for the aerostar and its works just fine. My mustang is a 82. I'm wondering if the older mustangs have a smaller U joint simuliar to aerostar.
 
Back from the dead! The Mafs out of cougars are the housings only. 87-93 mustang sensors will fit in the housing up to 97 I believe on the cougars which are HUGE gaping holes compared to the stock mustangs. They are also thinner aluminum so they are lighter aswell.
 
Back from the dead! The Mafs out of cougars are the housings only. 87-93 mustang sensors will fit in the housing up to 97 I believe on the cougars which are HUGE gaping holes compared to the stock mustangs. They are also thinner aluminum so they are lighter aswell.

Bad idea - here's why...

The MAF body and sensor are designed to match each other. Therefore you can't swap sensors between different part number MAF bodies and maintain proper calibration. The assembly is designed to match the computer’s internal program, and swapping a different MAF can upset the computer's calibration. In other words, your monster MAF probably won't match the calibration of your 5.0 Mustang computer.

The only other MAF that is a one for one swap for a 93 and earlier 5.0 Mustang is the 94-95 Mustang MAF.

94-95 Mustang GT MAF - $40-$100. It is 70 MM instead of the stock 55 MM on regular stangs built prior to 94. It uses a slip on duct on the side that goes to the throttle body and a 4 bolt flange on the other. You need a flange adapter to fit the stock slip on air ducting that goes to the air box. Wiring plugs right in with no changes. *1 *2

Once your replacement 70MM MAF is in place, disconnect the battery for about 10 minutes. When you reconnect the battery and start the engine, the computer will relearn the settings for the new MAF.

*1.) Metal flange adapter Kurtz Kustomz Motorsports, Inc. KKM Buy the TR70 for $44.95. Or spend some time on eBay looking for one that may fit.

*2.) MAF & sensor interchange
The 94-95 Mustang 5.0 MAF & sensor is also found on:
1995-94 Mustang 3.8L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1994-92 Crown Victoria 4.6L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1995-94 Mustang, Mustang Cobra 5.0L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1994-92 Town Car 4.6L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1994-92 Grand Marquis 4.6L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
Evidently the –A1A, -A2A, AA, etc. on the end of the part number is a minor variant that did not change the operating specs. You should be able to ignore it and have everything work good.
 
Bad idea - here's why...

The MAF body and sensor are designed to match each other. Therefore you can't swap sensors between different part number MAF bodies and maintain proper calibration. The assembly is designed to match the computer’s internal program, and swapping a different MAF can upset the computer's calibration. In other words, your monster MAF probably won't match the calibration of your 5.0 Mustang computer.

The only other MAF that is a one for one swap for a 93 and earlier 5.0 Mustang is the 94-95 Mustang MAF.

94-95 Mustang GT MAF - $40-$100. It is 70 MM instead of the stock 55 MM on regular stangs built prior to 94. It uses a slip on duct on the side that goes to the throttle body and a 4 bolt flange on the other. You need a flange adapter to fit the stock slip on air ducting that goes to the air box. Wiring plugs right in with no changes. *1 *2

Once your replacement 70MM MAF is in place, disconnect the battery for about 10 minutes. When you reconnect the battery and start the engine, the computer will relearn the settings for the new MAF.

*1.) Metal flange adapter Kurtz Kustomz Motorsports, Inc. KKM Buy the TR70 for $44.95. Or spend some time on eBay looking for one that may fit.

*2.) MAF & sensor interchange
The 94-95 Mustang 5.0 MAF & sensor is also found on:
1995-94 Mustang 3.8L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1994-92 Crown Victoria 4.6L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1995-94 Mustang, Mustang Cobra 5.0L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1994-92 Town Car 4.6L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1994-92 Grand Marquis 4.6L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
Evidently the –A1A, -A2A, AA, etc. on the end of the part number is a minor variant that did not change the operating specs. You should be able to ignore it and have everything work good.

Sorry but I am speaking from personal experience and I saw no negative side effects from doing this. No loss in gas mileage, no erractic idle, no hard starting, no CEL. Not only did it work for me, but several of my buddies that have/had 89-93 stangs. Theory is sound but some times you have to put things into practice. Besides that, look at the money you've spent. This is a Junkyard thread. I picked up those housing (which are plentiful) for 5-10 dollars.
 
Sorry but I am speaking from personal experience and I saw no negative side effects from doing this. No loss in gas mileage, no erractic idle, no hard starting, no CEL. Not only did it work for me, but several of my buddies that have/had 89-93 stangs. Theory is sound but some times you have to put things into practice. Besides that, look at the money you've spent. This is a Junkyard thread. I picked up those housing (which are plentiful) for 5-10 dollars.

Without a good broadband Air/Fuel ratio gauge, you have no way to see what sort of air fuel mixture you have. The air/fuel ratio can run from 10:1 to 16:1 and the engine will still run. You won't know the difference until you do a track or dyno run and compare the results to a properly matched setup on the same car.

The MAF sensor and housing are designed to work together to give a uniform voltage to airflow output that matches the computer's program. Change one thing in a properly matched combination so that there is a mismatch and the optimum results that you seek can vanish. The car still runs, but it may be overly lean at one speed range and overly lean at another. The idea is to make everything work together to achieve maximum performance. The engineers who do this type of design work know what they are doing better than 95% of the rest of us. If you have any doubts, check out the 2011 5.0 Mustangs that make 412 HP out of an engine with almost identical displacement and gets great gas mileage. They must know something that most of us don't.