Discussion in '1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-' started by Killa, May 11, 2014.
Another Fram can o death casualty
yes, and I havent heard any engine fail due to use fram ( orange can of dead ).
Interesting. Might just have to switch myself
I had few filter for the mustang 5.0 left on the shelf right now ( I had problem in the past where, I hoarder oil and filter ), anyway wix and mobil 1 , mobil 1 is ALOT heavy and very sturdy/tanky filter ( 12k miles oil change rating ), where wix is more for 6k miles oil change, wix will be on the 89 LX tomorrow ( might as well use all up, i dont like storage oil filter any more ), all my mustang 5.0 is running FL1A for rest of it life, I like the idea of going to walmart pick up 10w30 oil and turn around pick up FL1a and walk out the door ( 20 buck oil change, good for 5k miles or 4-6 month ). Here the pix of the wix and mobil 1 for the 5.0
I've always used Motorcraft filters and even they're 5w-30 synthetic blend but recently switched over to Mobil 1 full synthetic or high mileage or some ish like that.
My dd Volvo has 245,000 miles. I've used a WIX filter and Mobil1 full synth for the last 200,000 miles. Recently switched to their extended interval and now I get a lifter tap when cold. I guess that's why I ususally don't switch from something that's been working fine
I use 10w30. Brand doesn't really matter much to me. The last time I changed it, I used Castrol. I only worry about non roller cams. For a filter, I use ANYTHING BUT FRAM.
I used royal purple but that's probably just because its purple and the name sounds cool (someone has a good marketing team)
I liked the Valvoline VR1 dino oil. I don't run it cause the high zinc is bad for my cats, but it lubricated well.
I use a Wix racing oil filter and at this time Joe Gibbs XP-5 20-50w oil. This will be used for the first 20 passes or so on the new race engine. I also have an engine oil pan heater that gets plugged in for about 2 hrs before the engine is started so that the oil is close to operating temp when the engine is cranked over. It is amazing how much easier the engine rolls over with the oil hot compared to ambient.
I would be careful using the race filters. The micron rating is significantly higher with a race filter than a standard filter. Both housings carry the same burst pressure and are otherwise identical. The only difference is the filter element. From the mouth of one of the Wix reps, the racing filters are more so designed for an engine that sees regular tear downs. A small piece of metal that would otherwise be stopped in a standard filter will pass through a race filter and could do subsequent damage to the engine.
Wix filter and 10-30 valvoline VR1 synthetic.
Something to consider then......I will have to talk to the machine shop as that is what was recommended.