Oil Change

2k3 4.6 GT

New Member
Aug 21, 2003
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Madison, WI
Okay, I'm ready to do my first oil change on my own (The very first I had the dealer do, and now it's time for my second).

It's okay to go to Synthetic on the second oil change, right? I was thinking Mobil 1 5W-30 I beilve it is. The stuff that says it's formulated for new engines or whatever. Is that the best stuff to go with? I want to be able to just buy it at the parts store here, but if there is a better one to look for, what should I look for?

What filter should I go with? I used to just grab a FRAM Double Guard filter, but I've heard that FRAM isn't the best to go with...

Thanks for your help.
 
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Don't you have to go a few thousand miles before switching to synthetic? Obviously you have since you are changing the oil, but I can't remember what the recommended mileage is. That is the same oil that I use. I just use a motorcraft filter #FL820S.
 
2k3 4.6 GT said:
Okay, I'm ready to do my first oil change on my own (The very first I had the dealer do, and now it's time for my second).

It's okay to go to Synthetic on the second oil change, right? I was thinking Mobil 1 5W-30 I beilve it is. The stuff that says it's formulated for new engines or whatever. Is that the best stuff to go with? I want to be able to just buy it at the parts store here, but if there is a better one to look for, what should I look for?

What filter should I go with? I used to just grab a FRAM Double Guard filter, but I've heard that FRAM isn't the best to go with...

Thanks for your help.
Pretty much everyone in here using synthetic w/ 01+ GT's are running the 0w-20 from Mobil 1. the Service manual calls for 5w-20, but the Mobil 1 version is 0w-20. You'll be fine with that.
 
It's best to wait 5,000-10,000 miles for fully synthetic oil, i'd wait about 8,000. If you use Synthetic oil with a new engin the rings will not seal properly.
 
Mach428 said:
It's best to wait 5,000-10,000 miles for fully synthetic oil, i'd wait about 8,000. If you use Synthetic oil with a new engin the rings will not seal properly.

The new rings should be sealed before 5000 miles.... Some cars come full synthetic from the factory....
 
Use whatever is the cheapest Synthetic except Castrol. The only true ones now are Amsoil and Redline. Mobil lost a legal battle a couple of years ago to Castrol over their Syntec base oil not being a full synthetic so they change theirs to match to make more profit. I am sure this was also when you saw allot of other brands come into the market as well because they could now make a decent profit.

Filters, something to think about- Look inside a Fram it is a big hole. Look inside your original equipment filter which is a MotoCraft. The Motocraft has a spring inside it. This is part of the anti-drain back system that others try to do cheaply with other methods. I have a MX6 V6 with 162k on it, now my kids car. I started to get a lifter tick at about 100k. I read somewhere online about the fact that if I did not use a Mazda ( Motrocraft) with this Anti-Drain Back Valve in it, this would happen. I changed it and the Castrol (they did not recommend too, went to Valvoline) It quit the lifter Ticking!
 
I worked at a parts store for a couple years and did alot of checking into the oil filter deal, Motorcraft filters are awsome, ford actually did their homework on these, with the METALLIC anti drainback check valve held shut by a SPRING.. Fram is the WORST filter, and if you cant get a motorcraft filter, WIX brand filters are awsome too.. as far as motoroil I am a FIRM believer in Royal Purple motor oil. I have met the owner and developer of it and actually seen the tests they do with their oil and how the other oils compair.. Royal Purple is awsome! and available in 5W20! Almost everything in my car is Royal Purple now and its just coming up on 5k miles.
 

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