Does anybody have an oil cooler on their II?? I was curious if it lowered the coolant tempature?? My 060" over 302 is gettin' to 210 degrees while stuck in traffic on really hot days. Gurl friend's nearly melt to the floor when this happens.
Oil Cooler-er??
- Thread starter MUSTANG J
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Adding a large oil cooler (http://www.a351must2.atfreeweb.com/78TTop/temp1/image001a.jpg the thing with big orange headers) for my 351W didn't change water temperature, but my oil pressure no longer drops below 40psi when the engine gets hot.
Dano78
Founding Member
This may sound crazy but change your oil weight. I was running a .060 302 in a '69 Mustang I had days back. Was running 10W30 and it ran hot. Switched to 10W40 and it dropped the temps about 10-15 degrees.
My machinist swears by running 20W50 in everything he owns. I think that's too thick on a low mile engine but he's a really good engine builder and he's got 75k+ on his 450hp 428 in his '69 Fastback mustang, always running 20W50. So I guess he must be onto something....
My machinist swears by running 20W50 in everything he owns. I think that's too thick on a low mile engine but he's a really good engine builder and he's got 75k+ on his 450hp 428 in his '69 Fastback mustang, always running 20W50. So I guess he must be onto something....
Vegas Stang
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- Feb 27, 2008
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Been over this time after time now that the summer is here on II's running hot, not overheating, just running hot. No an oil cooler will not cool the engine although it will better lubricate due to less tempreture breakdown of the oil and added capacity. From everything I have read on other forums and my own experience, Mustang II's just run hot due to lack of air flow through the engine compartment and a tight fit. I am however having no problem cruising the Las Vegas streets in my II in temps ranging from 105-114 so far this summer.
Did I mention I don't have air conditioning in it, well the heat wont stop me from attending the local car meets and shows.
Did I mention I don't have air conditioning in it, well the heat wont stop me from attending the local car meets and shows.
Oh yeah, the 351W gets 15W50 synthetic as well. 4-row radiator and an A/C big block fan and it still runs hot at anything less than 10mph. Cools right down when it's moving. It's a .060" overbored block as well, I'll never do that again when having a block machined since I'm quite sure that's the root of the temp problems.
My Mach 1 with the 5.0L, stock 3-row and fan shroud runs dead on 180 pretty much always, but has never seen hotter than low 90's for outside temps. When I first bought it, it'd run a little hot, but flushing the radiator fixed that.
My Mach 1 with the 5.0L, stock 3-row and fan shroud runs dead on 180 pretty much always, but has never seen hotter than low 90's for outside temps. When I first bought it, it'd run a little hot, but flushing the radiator fixed that.
My Mach runs two 10" electric puller fans and it has a re-cored high efficiency 3 Core rad in it. She runs 180-190 when it is moving just runs 210 when it sits in one spot for too long on a hot day. The 030" over 302 never got that hot. I may try the oil. I am running Royal Purple 10W30 in it right now. I may replace the rad as it is getting old now. I am going to get a wide band 02 and dial in the carb, which may help also. The Royal purple oil and the "Purple Ice" really helped. (lowered the temp 10 degrees). The engine only has 500 miles on it, so it may run cooler when it breaks-in?
The car seems to run hotter with the aluminum heads on it. Better heat transfer I suppose? Anyone notice this?
itsaMustangtoo
New Member
All I do when summer comes is drain & flush my rad. Then I use distilled water and 40 below. That's it! My muzzy gets hotter on coolant than it does with the 40 below. I swear by this stuff. I have tried water wetter,but I could not tell a difference. There are some other brands. ( 347 stroker with aluminum heads)
I have with my Trick Flows. I also went ahead and installed an aluminum high flow water pump, high volume oil pump, and an oil cooler and I run Castrol 20w50. Already replaced the radiator, and had an electric puller fan installed. It is only a .03 over 302, but I have no overheating issues with it. Cooler oil will help keep it cool, but make sure your cooling system is up to snuff. Just a side note, if you do install an oil cooler, and if it has a sandwich adapter, you will not be able to use a stock style oil filter. You will need a shorter filter to clear the frame rail. I used a Fram filter, PH16. Anything that cross-references with that should work for you.
Dano78
Founding Member
Oh there is a possibility that it being a new engine (nice and tight) that it migh run a bit hotter. i've always been told to run a new engine a little rich for a few hundred miles, and I'm guessing it to prevent excessive heat from running lean. A lean engine will certainly run hotter as with timing advanced too far. (both problems I had on my car)
I have a hard time imagining that aluminum heads would generate more 'engine' heat but would believe that they'd raise the 'engine bay' temps because they dissipate heat alot better than cast. But- if you're running higher compression and making alot more horsepower.... more horsepower = more heat.
But I do agree, these engine bays in the IIs trap more heat than any of the other cars I've owned, with a V8.
itsaMustangtoo- Where can I find this 40 below stuff on the west coast?
I have a hard time imagining that aluminum heads would generate more 'engine' heat but would believe that they'd raise the 'engine bay' temps because they dissipate heat alot better than cast. But- if you're running higher compression and making alot more horsepower.... more horsepower = more heat.
But I do agree, these engine bays in the IIs trap more heat than any of the other cars I've owned, with a V8.
itsaMustangtoo- Where can I find this 40 below stuff on the west coast?
itsaMustangtoo
New Member
itsaMustangtoo- Where can I find this 40 below stuff on the west coast?[/QUOTE said:I get mine at the local auto parts, But you are in luck. I still have the can. It is made by pro-blend chemical co. in winston salem NC. for orders call 1-800-331-9520/336-767-1027 or fax 336-767-2545. If you have any questions you can call tech at 336-767-1027.. I am only running the 30 oz. can but last year I ran more. I purchased a closeout can for $19.00 ( about 1 gallon )
I get mine at the local auto parts, But you are in luck. I still have the can. It is made by pro-blend chemical co. in winston salem NC. for orders call 1-800-331-9520/336-767-1027 or fax 336-767-2545. If you have any questions you can call tech at 336-767-1027.. I am only running the 30 oz. can but last year I ran more. I purchased a closeout can for $19.00 ( about 1 gallon )
I have the 30FL. oz 40 below on the shelf (I am the manager of a speed shop) LOL
Maybe I should try what I sell??
itsaMustangtoo
New Member
I have the 30FL. oz 40 below on the shelf (I am the manager of a speed shop) LOL Maybe I should try what I sell??
It works I do know that! But it probably does not get super hot where you are at????
It works I do know that! But it probably does not get super hot where you are at????
The heat wave is over and the II seems to be holding at 180 to 190 all the time now. It never blew its top, just scared me when it hit 210. I have some ideas of where to start thanks guys
Oh, and for panicking about 210 degrees, just think, my '96 Eclipse doesn't even turn a cooling fan on until 210 and I've seen it get to 230 when running it HARD. It's also been to 270 when the thermostat stuck shut once, and again when one of the temp wires broke and the fans didn't turn on. That's an iron block with aluminum head and turbo and the head hasn't warped (yet).
The 351W has seen 230 a few times sitting in traffic. I've always told myself I'll pull over and shut it down if it goes over 230, but it's never gone over it.
My old 302 I originally put in my '74 ran 260 for 5 hours straight and possibly saw higher temps when there was only air running across the temp gauge ... it suffered 8 scored cylinders and some broken rings, but I still drove it for a year like that.
The 351W has seen 230 a few times sitting in traffic. I've always told myself I'll pull over and shut it down if it goes over 230, but it's never gone over it.
My old 302 I originally put in my '74 ran 260 for 5 hours straight and possibly saw higher temps when there was only air running across the temp gauge ... it suffered 8 scored cylinders and some broken rings, but I still drove it for a year like that.
We have a saying in Southern Ontario. "If you don't like the weather, wait a minute".
It was 93 Degrees out the other day! Feels like 104 with the Humidex.
Humidex - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
124 Degrees was the hottest tempurature recorded in Ontario and the coldest recorded tempature was -39Degrees
itsaMustangtoo
New Member
93 degrees? seriously? I would have never thought that. I don't think it gets that hot in the Poconos. I guess I am not moving to Canada then. Aluminum heads dissipate heat faster than the cast iron ones. But the cast iron acts as a heat sink ,so it is more constant, whereas the aluminum heads transfer it to the coolant and underhood temps far faster. I think I said that right?? Anyway there is a difference.
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