Engine Oil Pump, Engine In Car.

Discussion in 'Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech' started by jAEded, May 3, 2014.


  1. jAEded

    jAEded Active Member

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    Has anyone done the oil pump with the engine and K-member in the car? Is it possible to drop the power steering rack and remove the timing cover to be able to get at the oil pump?

    I have to drive my car for work and don't have a cherry picker so I'm trying to find the best way I can get it done in a weekend.

    I can drop the k-member but would prefer not too if possible.
     
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  2. mikestang63

    mikestang63 Mustang Master

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    You can do it in the car, but it is a PITA to do. The easiest way is to pull the engine out. You will need to rent a cherry picker to hoist the motor enough for clearance

    Both motor mount bolts will need be removed, and place some blocks of wood in there to support the motor. The trans mount will also have to be loosened, and it is a good idea to remove the drive shaft.

    Disconnect the exhaust at the headers to get the engine high enough to remove the oil pan. The you will most likely need to drop the steering rack and disconnect the steering shaft. Jack up the engine with a wood block under the oil pan . You will need to jack up the rear of the transmission as well to get clearance to remove the pan.

    Get a high volume/heavy duty pump, and an ARP or hardened pump shaft. Make sure you prime the new pump by removing the distributor and taking a long 1/4" extension on a drill and run it in reverse until you see the oil pressure come up.




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  3. jrichker

    jrichker StangNet's favorite TOOL
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    Been there, done that - You can do it in the car, but it is hard to do. The best way is to pull the engine.

    Disconnect the battery at the battery ground terminal, remove the fan and fan shroud. Both motor mounts will need to have the large nuts that secure them to the frame removed. The trans mount will also have to be loosened, and it is a good idea to remove the drive shaft.

    I also had to disconnect the cat pipes at the headers to get the engine high enough to remove the oil pan. Be prepared to have to drop the steering rack and disconnect the steering shaft. The flex coupling for the steering shaft needs to be disconnected before you can get the rack out. You should disassemble the coupling by removing the 2 bolts that hold it together Jack up the engine with a wood block under the oil pan and watch for things that bind or hoses/electrical wiring that may need to be disconnected. I put a couple of wood blocks between the headers and the frame to support the engine. You will likely need to jack up the rear of the transmission as well to get the required clearance.

    Scrape the pan mating surfaces clean as possible - old gasket stuck to the surfaces are a source of leaks.

    Get a high volume/heavy duty pump, and a replacement HD pump shaft.
    If anybody tells you some fable about a high volume pump being a bad thing, see http://www.mellingengine.com/Portals/5/pdf/pdf_catalog/high-volume-pumps.pdf. The bad stuff is all Internet myth and tall tales. Melling makes the pumps and they know what they are doing. HD Pump Shaft - FMS makes one, and ARP does too. When you install the pump, the funny looking washer thingy goes on the part of the shaft that fits into the hex socket in the distributor shaft. It keeps the shaft in place when you remove the distributor, which you will have to do to prime the pump. Forget to put it on, and the pump shaft can come loose and fall down in the bottom of the oil pan.


    There is a one piece oil pan gasket which will help re-assembly if you can find it. If you can't get this gasket, use weather strip adhesive to secure the cork gasket to the pan rails and the rubber strips to the bearing caps. Use lots of Acetone or MEK to clean the gasket surfaces so the weather strip adhesive will stick good. Read the instructions on the adhesive carefully to make sure the gaskets are permanently stuck in place and won't move when you slide the pan in place. Use lots of blue silicone sealer on top of the front and rear rubber seals where they mate with the pan.

    Fill with oil, replace the filter. Reconnect the battery, switch the ignition on to enable the gages, but DON'T crank the car. Remove the distributor and use a 1/4" hex socket to turn the pump counter clock wise (same direction as distributor rotation) until you see oil pressure (an external gage is a great help long about now). And keep turning for about 30 sec after you see the pressure come up. A reversible drill is the best tool to use to turn the 1/4" socket. The pressure should come up to about 50-80psi with cold oil. Once you see good pressure, check for obvious leaks, and then and only then, lower everything back into place and bolt down the mounts and anything else you had to take loose.

    Re-install the distributor and set the timing with the engine running using timing light (don't forget to disconnect the SPOUT plug and reconnect it when finished) 12-14 degrees BDC is good. Start up and check for leaks, let it warm up and look again for leaks. It took me 2 days plus, but I am old and slow, maybe your granny is faster.
     
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    Last edited: May 4, 2014

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