Ok I got Bored Bought a 90 4 banger who's got info on the carb 302 swap

Stupid question I know but I'm in a big hurry gotta get this done asap due to other vehicle issues at the moment anyone got the info on the swap of a 4 banger to a 302 carborated?

Thanks!

Anyone?? I'm Cryin Here!!

do a search... theres a million threads about this on this forum

http://www.carbdford.com/

Thanks for the help but haven't found what I'm looking for....... Honestly looking for instructions on how to do it anyone got a link?

Swap a 2.3T into it.

Ash

5.0 Or Nothin!!! lol sorry I'm a piston head its gotta be and 8..... maby a tt 8 but at least an 8 Now if I could only find directions on how to do this easily......

what do you need to know, putting in a crab motor is pretty straightforward...

A crab motor huh

you need a different fuel pump with a proper fuel pressure for the carb. Or you need to run a return line to the tank and add on an adjustable FPR. Im doing the same swap. I just need an intake now.

http://www.jason.fletcher.net/tech/v8/v8.htm

which was linked from the carb ford site..

i know i know pick me me me. first drop the fuel tank, and bypass the old efi pump. then pick which ignition you want, you can either do the whole duraspark ignition conversion or the HEI conversion like i did. it was easier and faster to wire up, and you can use any non cd coil you want. i have the info on that if you want to email me or something to get it. the drop the motor in with v8 motor mounts, what tranny are you going to use and what tranny is in the car now? you need a double hump tranny crossmember for dual pipes and a v8 aod,c4/c5, t5 or whatever manual tranny you want. get an 8.8 rear end out of another mustang gt or v8 lx. get the v8 tach or use an aftermarket tach because the 4 banger one wont register right. get a v8 radiator and shroud if they are different. you need bigger fuel lines so replace them. i have a feeling i am forgetting something but cannot think of it now.

Or....you could find a Turbocoupe motor, switch five wires, do a bit of repinning on the computer, put a 255 lph fuel pump in, and you're up and running.

Ash

run the old fuel lines to an AFPR. One in, one out, one return. Dial it down to 8 psi max. As for ignition, just get like an MSD setup. Thats pretty much the only thing you have to worry about. Unless your 302 is going to make a lot of power. Just keep the 7.5 out back since they arent as weak as people think they are. What else do you need to know?

Ash, you might as well stop trying to sell people on the 2.3 turbo, its not going to work.... The fact is the 302 is a much better platform to build off of.

The 2.3T guys are a persistant bunch I tell ya. I went through hell when I decided to swap to a v8 DANGGGGGGGGGGG

Lol, whatever floats your boat, man. Unless you got good sources, the 2.3T swap is probably gonna be cheaper, and that's my main consideration. All depends on what you're looking for.

The 5.0 guys gave you hell too, if you'll recall, for swapping in a boat anchor. But like I said, it all depends on what you've got and what you want.

Ash

I'm doing the swap. The "big" mechanics of it is rather easy, the engine just drops in. You need to use the V8 supports (get the 'vert ones) and a V8 crossmember. You need to remove the 4 banger crossmember mounts before putting in the new crossmember. There are 2 models to choose from (auto or manual).

The rest is a little harder but not extreme. If the engine doesn't have a mechanical fuel pump, just change the in-tank pump to something with less pressure. I belive it should be 7psi not 8 but then again ask around because it could be even less than 7. My friend almost killed his carb with 8psi (he's running 7psi now). A regulator will help to adjust everything. For ignition you can use an MSD 6A box with an MSD dizzy. Or go with the HEI conversion (do a search on here for HEI).

Then comes the crap work such as V8 brake upgrades, axle (you can stick with the 7.5 for the time being, I think it has good gearing anyway). Be sure to get the V8 torsion bar upfront. And if you keep the 4 banger springs for a lower stance and more weight transfer be sure to get the front end re-aligned (you'll need to re-align with new springs anyway).

Its easier and cheaper to just run an AFPR than to pull the tank and mod it for a mechanical setup. With an AFPR you dont even need to touch the fuel lines under the car, the pump or the tank.

carbs don't need high pressure, they need volume and those tiny fuel lines can't live up to the carb's needs. if you want it to run right and fast then change to a bigger line