Ok, time for some plugs.

  • Sponsors (?)


#23
So NGK iridiums TR55IX Plugs come pre gapped @ .054? So apparently they are made specifically for our cars. I have heared only good about the NGKs, so I think ill try those :nice: . I wont buy them for maybe a week, so if anyone has any other experiences with something like the new autolites, or anything else....please post it up. I may change my mind :D
 
#24
which one's are better, denso iridium or the ngk iridiums?? same thing....on the denso ididium site it says they are gapped to .050, and on the ngk site it says to .054....so if i were to get the denso i would have to gap them right??
 
#25
hotmustang331 said:
Which ones is everyone using, and how do you like them, and what gap? What about those new 8MM plugs from I believe autolite? I think mine are going south and need to replace them, so bring it on :D. (Stock compression, N/A GTs experiances preferred)
Click to expand...
I just installed Autolite 764's myself. I believe they are the OEM supplier for Motorcraft, but don't quote me on that. I payed $1.39 per plug. www.bullittarchive.com has a good write up. Careful not to strip the coil-on-plug bolts (i didn't and had to use vice-grips to get it off).

The stock gapping of .54 is pretty "long distance." Some feel a closer distance is more efficient. I've run .45 for over 2 years.

Wade
 
#27
Well thats a little close WMS, but maybe its not LOL. So, let me ask this to everyone.

Hold your car at a steady 2000-2500RPMs and listed to your exhaust...does it kinda miss any? Like not just a smooth unwaivered sound.

See mine has a little miss every few seconds...but @ 3500, its perfectly level with no missing.

I do know that at 3500 even if a cylinder isnt firing you cant tell. My sisters taurus wasnt firing on 1 cylinder, and barely on another (bad valves almost no compression). At idle and low RPM you could defentaly hear it....but rev to 3500 and it purred like a kitten lol. So thats why I say 2000-2500 :D lol. Thanks all, just seeing if this miss is common.
 
#28
hotmustang331 said:
Well thats a little close WMS, but maybe its not LOL. So, let me ask this to everyone.

Hold your car at a steady 2000-2500RPMs and listed to your exhaust...does it kinda miss any? Like not just a smooth unwaivered sound.

See mine has a little miss every few seconds...but @ 3500, its perfectly level with no missing.

I do know that at 3500 even if a cylinder isnt firing you cant tell. My sisters taurus wasnt firing on 1 cylinder, and barely on another (bad valves almost no compression). At idle and low RPM you could defentaly hear it....but rev to 3500 and it purred like a kitten lol. So thats why I say 2000-2500 :D lol. Thanks all, just seeing if this miss is common.
Click to expand...


well on mine before the plug swap it felt a little rough around that rpm range just a little now she rev's up real nice and is a smoother rev than before :nice:
 
#30
hotmustang331 said:
Well thats a little close WMS, but maybe its not LOL. So, let me ask this to everyone.

Hold your car at a steady 2000-2500RPMs and listed to your exhaust...does it kinda miss any? Like not just a smooth unwaivered sound.

See mine has a little miss every few seconds...but @ 3500, its perfectly level with no missing.

I do know that at 3500 even if a cylinder isnt firing you cant tell. My sisters taurus wasnt firing on 1 cylinder, and barely on another (bad valves almost no compression). At idle and low RPM you could defentaly hear it....but rev to 3500 and it purred like a kitten lol. So thats why I say 2000-2500 :D lol. Thanks all, just seeing if this miss is common.
Click to expand...
Funny my car does that a bit lower in the RPM's and i hope a plug change fixes that too
 
#32
AmBo said:
How likely is it to blow a plug? I always thought a plug change was cake. I just never understood the whole "gap" thing. Would anyone like to enlighten? :nice:
Click to expand...
the gap on a spark plug is the distance, or gap, between the diode (stubby looking thing at the end) and conductor (curved piece of metal at the very end). the gap is important b/c it has to be on spec w/ how intense the spark is. the weaker the spark, the less the gap must be in order to be jumped.

its like when you rub your feet on the carpet and go to touch a doorknb. somtimes you can actually see the spark jump from your finger tip to the knob before you even touch it. same thing. with a plug, you want as an intense a spark as possible w/ the plugs youre running so when the spark jumps the gap, it can ignite the compressed air and gas.
then you want a spark hot enough to ignite the entire mixture and not leave anything unburned, but too hot of a spark could cause detonation/pinging, which is where you have the a/f mixture igniting at more than one place in the combustion chamber. bad stuff
hope that helps a little
 
#33
DerekStangGT said:
the gap on a spark plug is the distance, or gap, between the diode (stubby looking thing at the end) and conductor (curved piece of metal at the very end). the gap is important b/c it has to be on spec w/ how intense the spark is. the weaker the spark, the less the gap must be in order to be jumped.

its like when you rub your feet on the carpet and go to touch a doorknb. somtimes you can actually see the spark jump from your finger tip to the knob before you even touch it. same thing. with a plug, you want as an intense a spark as possible w/ the plugs youre running so when the spark jumps the gap, it can ignite the compressed air and gas.
then you want a spark hot enough to ignite the entire mixture and not leave anything unburned, but too hot of a spark could cause detonation/pinging, which is where you have the a/f mixture igniting at more than one place in the combustion chamber. bad stuff
hope that helps a little
Click to expand...

:hail2:

Hell yea that helps. Thanks a ton! I always wondered what caused detonation/pinging.

So I guess my last confusion, is why/how do you set the gap? Don't spark plugs come with a set gap? :shrug:

[Edit: The somewhat common belief that plugs are properly gapped as delivered in their box from the factory is incorrect, as proved by the fact that the same plug may be specified for several different engines, requiring a different gap for each. A spark plug gap gauge with round wires of precise diameters is used to measure the gap;]
 
#35
Yes and No. From what I've gathered the 04 heads don't suffer from this problem--though I've not got a definite answer from any of the ford techs on here like svtTech. But also for anyone else replacing plugs and not using the recommended plugs from ford. I am currently looking for a mustang and if the 04 is indeed not effected by this problem--then that's what I want to shoot for.



hotmustang331 said:
Who me?
Click to expand...
 
#36
VPStang said:
Yes and No. From what I've gathered the 04 heads don't suffer from this problem--though I've not got a definite answer from any of the ford techs on here like svtTech. But also for anyone else replacing plugs and not using the recommended plugs from ford. I am currently looking for a mustang and if the 04 is indeed not effected by this problem--then that's what I want to shoot for.
Click to expand...

oh ok so that is what you where aiming at i have also heard that the 04 heads dont blow out plugs :shrug: but like i said "heard" so who knows
 
#38
AmBo said:
:hail2:



So I guess my last confusion, is why/how do you set the gap? Don't spark plugs come with a set gap? :shrug:
Click to expand...
companies who sell spark plugs will usually tell you they come pre-gapped, but dont trust them. its always best to check yourself. how you set the gap is actually pretty primitive. get a set of feeler guages. they are very thin strips of metal, each with a measurment on it. you then bang the spark plug on a gard surface and the diode will "come out" and get closer to the conductor, thus lessening the gap. use the feeler guage to measure the gap and continue to bang as needed. you may also need to expand the gap. be careful when doing this. i always use a think flathead screwdriver and gently twist the head to push the diode back in.
 
#40
DerekStangGT said:
companies who sell spark plugs will usually tell you they come pre-gapped, but dont trust them. its always best to check yourself. how you set the gap is actually pretty primitive. get a set of feeler guages. they are very thin strips of metal, each with a measurment on it. you then bang the spark plug on a gard surface and the diode will "come out" and get closer to the conductor, thus lessening the gap. use the feeler guage to measure the gap and continue to bang as needed. you may also need to expand the gap. be careful when doing this. i always use a think flathead screwdriver and gently twist the head to push the diode back in.
Click to expand...

:scratch: You are talking about the metal arch that goes over the plug right? You just bend that up and down to close or open the gap. It almost sounds like your talking about the little metal rod coming out of the plug thats surrounded by porcelan (sp) lol. I know that thing wont move lol.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

F
Low fuel pressure downstream of fuel rail, good pressure upstream
Replies
4
Views
707
SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech
FYWW
F
M
03 GT Misfire at idle only, calling all experts!
Replies
0
Views
262
1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk-
midnight03
M
MMccPerformance
98 GT PI Swapped Engine Fires, Dies Immediately NOT PATS
Replies
3
Views
837
SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech
Yel2002GTAuto
Y
Jacobn4056.
Sn95 Stumped Electrical Tech
Replies
5
Views
672
1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk-
Jacobn4056.
Jacobn4056.
S
Fuel Spits sputter pops and bangs under load. Help wanted
Replies
22
Views
1K
Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech
sickntired
S
Top Bottom
Back
New
Hot
Menu