One of those crazy mustang ideas

Green&GoldGT

Member
Aug 1, 2005
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Virginia
So I was thinking of making my stock hood a heat extractor by drilling holes in the back, slanted part of the cowl right in front of the cowl panel.

Would this keep rain out of the engine compartment?
 
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The cowl area just in front of the windshield actually has positive pressure when driving, due to aerodynamic affects. It is likely air would flow from the cowl area into the engine bay when driving, and rise up and out when stopped.

Personally, I don't see any advantage to extracting the heat. If you want the engine to run cooler, the best solution is a lower temperature thermostat. You can then adjust the on/off points for the fans to make sure it stay there. If you want a cooler air charge, then make sure your CAI is drawing from the fenderwell. No reason to make your car trashy for perceived gains.

Another good way to reduce underhood temps, is have headers ceramic coated or wrapped. Again, I still think there isn't much advantage to making it cooler underhood. The heads and intake are still going to have coolant flowing through, thus they will be close to the temp of the coolant. Hence my recommendation for change the t-stat and fan setpoints.
 
The car was designed to cool itself off under hard driving conditions. Unless you have more power than bolt ons, I would not screw up your car.

Not to be a dick, but you sound like a ricer. If this is truly what you want, buy a hood designed for it.
And to prove my point:
VTEC YO!
 
Running a cooler stat is a holdover from carb days. With modern efi engines, best efficiency is going to be around 195-210 degrees. Running cooler than that may be harmful in the long run.
 
Look at an 03 Cobra hood. That is a heat extractor. Maybe just get one of those? I know it costs more than drilling holes in your hood, but it will be more effective as well as not look ghetto.

Late 60's Camaros could be optioned with a cowl-induction set-up, with an opening at the rear of the hood at the base of the windshield connected to the carburetor. That actually worked, unlike the "ram-air" and shaker hood scoops which at best only serve as a cold-air source. While stopped at a light you might see heat rising out of the cowl opening, but when moving, air will be forced into any available opening as it hits the windshield. That's why the openings for the heater/A/C are located at the base of the windshield.
 
I used to have a 4" Kaenan cowl hood, and it made a huge difference. I would sit at a stoplight and there was so much heat that came out it looked like a grill, with the air wavy. I got the idea from this Bullitt, I don't consider it rice. The next time you go out for a drive, pop the hood and feel how hot the intake plenum gets.

2001 Ford Mustang Bullitt Modified - Muscle Mustangs & Fast Fords

Modifying your stock hood like that is rice man. Not arguing that it doesn't get hot under there, but that's what the fan, radiator, and water pump is for. These cars are made to handle the heat with stock parts.

Look at the new GT mustangs. How much more power are they making stock? Do they have a heat extractor hood?

It's a good idea, I'm not knocking that. Get the hood though instead of drilling holes in yours.
 
The car was designed to cool itself off under hard driving conditions. Unless you have more power than bolt ons, I would not screw up your car.

Not to be a dick, but you sound like a ricer. If this is truly what you want, buy a hood designed for it.
And to prove my point:
VTEC YO!

that is teh tits yo. Thats probably the funniest s**t ive seen in awhile haha
 
Put the air box in the fender well. It will drop the temps of the incoming air from 200* to what the outside temps are. Denser colder air, hence higher air ratio corrected with higher fuel addition, equals more hp.