Optimus Prime - The '68 Coupe

Discussion in 'Classic Mustang Specific Tech' started by gregski, Jan 11, 2011.


  1. gregski

    gregski Active Member

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    Fender Splash Shield Removal

    I would like to share a tip with you on Removing Rusted Nuts And Bolts. There will be a lot more difficult situations than the three screws on these splash shields but the principals are the same. (One hellish example is the exhaust manifold bolts, another being the good ol' water pump bolts). And yes there are other ways to do this, heat for example, but most of us beginners lack an acetylene tank and torch gitty up in our home garages.

    The first thing I do when I am about to remove some rusted or seized up fasteners is I reach for the can of WD40 aka the "Love Potion". Now I am aware of other products such as BP Blaster which claim to do a better job, and yes I own them and have used them, but guess what WD40 works, so I use it. So using the red straw on your WD40 can give each bolt a squirt, if you can get to the back of them like in this case that's even better.

    Next go to your toolbox to get the right tools for the job, buying yourself some time, and allowing the Love Potion to do it's magic and seep in. If you can squirt them the weekend before doing your project even better.

    Ok, here's the first gold nugget. As you are thinking righty tighty and lefty loosey, that may not always be the way to go. An old timer taught me a trick. (And by old timer I don't mean any disrespect quite the opposite.) He said try to loosen the bolt, however if it won't budge, try to actually tighten it a bit, WHAT? Yes try to tighten it a tad bit, it may not wanna come out but it may go forward just a tinny bit, just enough to bust it loose.

    Ok, once it budges, start to unscrew it. But wait, only about a turn or two out, then stop. What you may not realize is all the heat that is building up from the friction of turning this bolt that hasn't moved since Christ was a Corporal, jk. Ok, now squirt some more WD40 on the exposed thread or two, and get this, this is the second gold nugget. Now screw the bolt back in.

    No way Greg, I am not doing that, that is stupid, and more work!

    Yes maybe it is more work, maybe it is twice the work, but guess what, it is easy work. Imagine if you don't do this and you snap the bolt, oh and you will, heck maybe not all of them but one of those 8 stubborn bolts holding the rusty exhaust manifold on, on the engine while it is still in the car, imagine the work you will have to do now to drill that bad boy out, ask me how I know.

    Keep in mind this is for rather extreme situations, so use your judgment and common sense, as your mileage may vary.

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  2. LarsD

    Founding Member

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    Lots of work there, looking good though. I got a small taste of this when I stripped and repainted the engine bay and new hood for my Dodge. I ran into about a tenth of what you have here.
     
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  3. gregski

    gregski Active Member

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    Fender Headlight Extension Removal Part I

    Ok, let me walk you through removing the other splash shield and the fender/headlight assembly extension (what ever it is called). This time I will try to show you a tip that sounds easy but for some reason is much more difficult than you think, tell me if I'm wrong.

    The tip deals with keeping all your tools in one place as you work on the car. One of my pet peeves is placing your tools on the fender or some other part as you work on your ride, I can't stand that, I don't care if it's a jalopy. Now ideally you would use a rolling cart to save your back, but here I am using a clean oil pan just to show you can use what ever, a cardboard box will suffice.

    Ok, so let me say it in pictures.

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  4. gregski

    gregski Active Member

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    Fender Headlight Extension Removal Part II

    For me keeping your tools organized as you work accomplishes two things:

    1. Keeps them from rolling down a steep driveway, and keeps the profanity to a minimum as you search for that 9/16's which is in your back pocket the whole time.

    2. At the end of the job, you can look at your tools and say, hey cool now I know what it takes to do that job, or you can say dang, I can't believe it took this many tools to do this task, you get the idea.

    so you get a tool from your toolbox, if you use it, you put it in the oil pan, if you don't (cause it's the wrong size or something) you put it back in the toolbox, lather, rinse, repeat...

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  5. gregski

    gregski Active Member

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    Fender Headlight Extension Removal Part III

    sometimes the best place for your loose nuts and bolts isn't a kitchen zip loc bag, but actually the place where they came from, yes it's a bit more work to screw them back in, only to later have to remove them again, to put them back again, but hey, 8 months later when you're finally putting that car back together cause life got in the way, you'll be glad you did

    No tools were lost during the process of this repair. Some were placed on body panels for photo purposes only, as placing them there still remains the authors pet peeve!

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  6. Rusty67

    Rusty67 Well-Known Member

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    WD40, I hate the stuff but its so damned convienent.... everyone seems to have it laying about so when I'm working on stuff at other peoples places it tends to be what I use.

    PB Blaster is just junk. Everyone thinks its so great but all it ever seems to do is work about as well as WD40 and make a much bigger mess.

    Liquid Wrench is the best bang for buck. It is significantly better then WD40/PB Blaster and costs about the same as PB last time I checked.

    Kroil is the best stuff out there that you can buy premixed but does not meet any sort of performance for dollar spent ratio. Its the most expensive and by a long shot but it is proven scientifically to be the best.

    If you want something better then Kroil you need to mix ATF with acetone and use that. Its messy....






    As to keeping all of your tools in one place.... I strive for this but tend to leave a screw driver or socket wrench on an intake manifold while I'm screwing around and forgeting it is there. I'm TRYING so hard not to do this because I swear I waste 20% of my time looking for the tool I put down somewhere and can't find.

    Screwing the nuts/bolts back into where they came from is awesome. It saves SO much time on reassembly. If you don't or can't do this then I recomend a magnetic tray to throw the loose fasteners into until they can be bagged and tagged.
     
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  7. gregski

    gregski Active Member

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    How Not To Store Your Fenders

    i don't even recall leaving them like this, usually I at least set them on some spare 2x4's, but I have no one to blame but the dog

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  8. gregski

    gregski Active Member

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    Just Hangin'

    a trip to Home Depot and $4.00 dollars later, ahh that's better

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  9. zm830101

    zm830101 New Member

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    i just wanted to say great job gregski! i've been down the same trail you are blazing here and fixing to do it again. it has been fun to watch and read about your progress! keep up the good work bud.

    zach
     
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  10. gregski

    gregski Active Member

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    Oh no Zach, are you telling us that we can get Mustang Restorers Amnesia aka MRA and are bound to repeat this long drawn out LABORIOUS process, LOL, jk

    thank you for the kind words, glad someone appreciates/tolerates my rants, hee hee
     
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  11. gregski

    gregski Active Member

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    It's A Holiday

    Don't have to go to work today, so I'm off to work on the Mustang, wish me luck.
     
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  12. zm830101

    zm830101 New Member

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    haha! yes and the only cure for MRA is very expensive!! i have yet to restore one of these heaps cheaply. and my money tree still isn't producing :mad:
     
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  13. gregski

    gregski Active Member

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    You've seen one wiper you've seen 'em all.

    Guys when I post basic stuff like windshield wiper removal I'm not trying to insult your intelligence, I'm just doing it so we have a check off list of everything that needs to be removed, so that later in Haynes Manual fashion the assembly can be the reversal of the removal.

    Oh yeah these were just intelligently held on with a circular clip, and required no special tools other than a flat screwdriver to remove.

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  14. gregski

    gregski Active Member

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    Cowlbunga Dude!

    Sanding down the cowl vents. What, don't you watch the Simpsons? Believe it or not after I removed the fenders and shined a flashlight through the side opening, the actual cowl towers looked good.

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  15. gregski

    gregski Active Member

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    The Speakers Were Next

    Not all of you may have speakers in the kick panels but my Mustang did, so I removed them, they were thrashed.

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  16. gregski

    gregski Active Member

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    Just another hoodlum.

    The hood was the nicest thing on the car, but it had to be sanded too. I am not going to scuff up the belly yet, since I haven't decided it I'm going with gloss black or flat black for the engine bay.

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  17. gregski

    gregski Active Member

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    the last of the mohicans

    The last part to come off the car! Well except for those intimidating door hinges, lol. And I had to tare the whole front apart to get this stone deflector shield off, that included removing the AC condenser since some screws were so rusty I couldn't get the right access/leverage on them otherwise.

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  18. gregski

    gregski Active Member

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    The Emperor Has No Clothes

    The Emperor Has No Clothes

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  19. 65ShelbyClone

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    Both of those finishes make me cringe for an engine bay. Then again, I live out in the windy, dusty desert where keeping anything clean is an exercise in futility. Gloss looks dirty fast and flat holds the dirt. I'll probably end up using satin or semigloss for mine if I don't decide to strip the whole bay and use body color, which will be (mostly) white.
     
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  20. gregski

    gregski Active Member

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    Great! LOL, I think the engine would really pop against a nice silver metallic engine bay compartment matching the rest of the car, however that means more prep, and spraying on the epoxy first, and then spraying on the base coat, then the clear coat. So instead I am going to go with the instant gratification and use POR 15 which I will ... [wait for it] ... simply brush on. But that's outside of the scope of this project, and hey maybe material for another of my excruciating super long drawn out, long winded threads, LOL stay tuned
     
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