Painless vs. American Autowire Chassis Wiring Harnesses

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I got started today installing my AAW harness and am going to make a separate thread documenting my progress for those who are interested, however before I get too involved I thought I'd ask a question to those who have done this things before.

Do you recommend removing the entire old harness before attempting to do any new wiring or remove one thing at a time as I wire in the new? I was planning on just removing one thing at a time for fear of removing too much but it looks like its going to be difficult massaging in each circuit with the old stuff in there.
 
I removed all the old wiring first, makes it a lot easier to route the new harness, there's nothing you need from the old harness, at least I haven't needed anything yet. The one connector you might need to re-use is the brake warning light switch that connect to the distribution block near the master cylinder. The AAW kit come's with the modern style connector, I'm planning on going to the junk yard and grabbing a switch so i can use the new style connector.
Make sure you have a good set of crimper's for uninsulated terminals, I also soldered them after crimping.
 
Ok thanks. I'll proceed that way. Did you find the best approach to installing everything is to route all the circuit branches where they go under the dash before attempting to mount the fusebox? I tried mounting the box first but it looks like it will be hard to manage all the branches that way.
 
Thanks for all the help so far. It has been very useful to me so far and I'm hoping it will help others in my "how to thread" on this subject.

I'm kind of running into a stalling point. I've got my old harness out and have tried to start routing the bundles according to AAW's illustration. However I'm slightly confused about the routing for the first two branches. (The front wiring harness and the engine feed harness). I first assumed that both would go out through the existing firewall hole right by the brake master cylinder. So I did that. But after looking at the AAW instructions, it is not as clear to me. First off, on page 7 there is a note that says "New Engine Hole" which is slightly to the right of the fusebox. (Instructions are here http://www.americanautowire.com/PDFLink/92968935 510056 3.0.pdf)

There is no mention anywhere about that hole in the rest of the instructions. Is that where the engine harness is supposed to be routed?

Also on pages 9 and 10 Figures A and D talk about routing the harness through these firewall holes and then say to install a grommet in the hole "as shown on Page 8." Page 8 doesn't show anything but a couple of Tables on the Turn Signal Switch Wires and the Instrument Cluster Wires. So I'm a tad confused, can you guys help me out?

Thanks :nice:
 
Ok I'm going to update my questions. I have come to the conclusion that the "new engine hole" is actually the hole that had the engine feed harness running through it. (aka the oil pressure, temperature, coil etc. leads). If that is the case their illustration isn't so good.

Next up is my confusion about routing the underdash connections. The picture they provide isn't the greatest. It says the Heat and A/C feed, instrument cluster, rear connections etc must go over the "steering column saddle" to keep away from the wiper motor linkages. Well when I think of steering column saddle I think of that U bracket that holds the steering column to the pedal support assembly. Are they talking about routing it over the pedal support assembly? When I do that it seems like I'm dangerously close to the wiper linkage unless I am able to mount it behind the wiper motor bracket right up against the firewall, but it is so incredibly tight I don't know if some of those connectors could be squeezed through there. Did you have to take the wiper motor and bracket out to do this?

Next is how to mount that relay panel. I see there are a couple of holes on the wiper bracket, are those the ones you use? Or do you have to drill new ones? I'm hoping not, I don't know any way I could get a drill up in there.

Thanks again.
 
They do recommend you drill a new hole for the engine harness wire's, I already had one drill from when I was messing around with Holley and then Megasquirt fuel injection, I would drill one in same area just lower if I had to drill for the harness.

Some photo's hope they help........

http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r196/starchiefus/Mustang/_IGP4275.jpg

http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/.../albums/r196/starchiefus/Mustang/_IGP4272.jpg

http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r196/starchiefus/Mustang/_IGP4271.jpg

http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r196/starchiefus/Mustang/_IGP4270.jpg

The first pic should show you the relay's tucked up behind the steering support.
 
Thanks!

I think I'm now clear on most of it.

One thing I'm still not 100% on is the routing of the under dash wiring. From their picture it looks like it goes up all the way back against the firewall butted up against the bottom of the dash, or in other words way the hell back there.

I looked about routing it that way but I'm not sure if its possible. If it is, it almost doesn't seem worth it. How did you route those parts of the harness? I kind of just thought of passing it between the steering column and the pedal support. Do you have any pictures?
 
Well my AAW Classic update will be on my front porch today, and a used 66 gauge cluster will be here next week. I have no doubt I`ll need help from you guys and I want to start with 2 questions.

First I need a 1 wire alternator, whats best source for this?

2nd, crimpers, whats a good way to go here? I don`t want to rent AAW`s when I can own my own.
 
Well my AAW Classic update will be on my front porch today, and a used 66 gauge cluster will be here next week. I have no doubt I`ll need help from you guys and I want to start with 2 questions.

First I need a 1 wire alternator, whats best source for this?

2nd, crimpers, whats a good way to go here? I don`t want to rent AAW`s when I can own my own.
i went to auto zone for the alternator and bought the heavy duty gm unit for my 35 ford pick up .had to drill out the pivot bolt hole for 7/16 ,it was only 3/8 ,and a longer spacer was needed. they have a good warranty. it works great . i did the same on my 351 for my 69 shelby replica. cant help on the crimper ,mine is a piece of junk.